Alessandria

Alessandria, a city in Italy's Piedmont region, holds a strategic position between the Tanaro and Bormida rivers. With a population of approximately 93,000, it stands as the third-largest city in Piedmont. Recognized for its historical significance and industrial contributions, Alessandria serves as a pivotal agricultural and logistical center in northwestern Italy. The city's origins trace back to 1168, when it was established as a stronghold for the Lombard League against Frederick Barbarossa.

While often less traversed by travelers than other Italian destinations, Alessandria offers a compelling blend of history, architecture, and local culture. It is a city that gradually reveals its character to those who linger, from its impressive 18th-century fortress to its elegant Baroque palaces. Alessandria is also known for its association with the esteemed Borsalino hat company and its proximity to the site of Napoleon's Battle of Marengo.

The city's motto, "Deprimit elatos, levat Alexandria stratos" (Alessandria humbles the proud and exalts the humble), hints at its resilient spirit and profound past. Visitors can wander through its pedestrian-friendly historic center, discover local culinary specialties, and experience an authentic Italian way of life away from the busiest tourist routes.

From Lombard Stronghold to Napoleonic Capital

Alessandria's narrative commences in 1168, when it was founded as a free city, initially named Civitas Nova, then Cesaria, before being rechristened in honor of Pope Alexander III. Its establishment was a strategic maneuver by the Lombard League to forge a defensive bulwark against the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I, known as Frederick Barbarossa. This strategic importance was swiftly tested, as the city successfully repelled an assault by Barbarossa between 1174 and 1175.

Throughout the 13th century, Alessandria experienced economic flourishing, leading to the erection of notable structures like the Palazzo del Pretorio, now known as Palatium Vetus. The city's governance shifted through various influential families, including the Visconti and the Sforza, eventually becoming integrated into the Duchy of Milan. In 1535, Alessandria, alongside Milan, came under Spanish dominion, which persisted until 1706. Despite administrative challenges, this period saw the city evolve as a trading hub and military base.

In 1706, Savoyard forces expelled the Spanish, and by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, Alessandria formally became part of the Kingdom of Savoy. This ushered in an era of significant rebuilding and prosperity, most notably with the leveling of the old city center and the construction of the hexagonal Cittadella, commencing in 1728. This monumental fortress, conceived by Ignazio Bertola, is considered among Europe's grandest military edifices of its kind.

The late 18th and early 19th centuries brought further transformation under Napoleon. Following his triumph at the Battle of Marengo in 1800, Alessandria was absorbed into France and served as the capital of the Napoleonic Département of Marengo. The city was a focal point of the early 19th-century freedom movement in Piedmont and played a role in the Italian Risorgimento, with the first display of a tricolor flag in 1821.

After Napoleon's defeat, Alessandria briefly fell to the Austrians before reverting to the House of Savoy and becoming part of the Kingdom of Sardinia. Following the unification of Italy, Alessandria became a provincial capital, continuing its industrial expansion. The late 19th century witnessed the demolition of city walls and slums, and the ascent of industries like the Borsalino hat factory. The city also faced adversities, including substantial damage from Allied bombing during World War II due to its strategic railway yards, and a major flood of the Tanaro River in 1994.

Begin your exploration at the Cittadella di Alessandria, an immense 18th-century star-shaped fortress. It stands as a remarkable example of military architecture, with ramparts, gates, and grounds open for exploration, and even offers underground tours. Connecting the city center to the Cittadella is the Ponte Meier, a modern bridge designed by American architect Richard Meier, which replaced a Napoleonic-era structure.

In the city center, Piazza della Libertà is Alessandria's main square, encircled by elegant buildings, including the town hall and Palazzo Ghilini, an 18th-century Baroque palace. The Cathedral of Alessandria, reconstructed after Napoleon's destruction of the original, features a tower that is the second tallest in Italy. Nearby, Palazzo Cuttica houses the Conservatory of Alessandria.

For a glimpse into local industry and fashion, visit the Borsalino Museum, which chronicles the history of the famous hat brand with a collection of over 2000 pieces of headgear. If the museum is closed for renovation, the Borsalino store in Galleria Guerci offers an opportunity to see and acquire these iconic hats. The Marengo Museum commemorates Napoleon's victory at the Battle of Marengo in 1800.

Beyond the city center, consider a visit to the Cemetery of Alessandria, noted for its monumental sculpture and the contrast between its older and newer sections. The Santa Maria di Castello and Cloister is the oldest church in the Borgo Rovereto quarter, dating back to the 15th century, with an adjacent cloister that now serves as a hostel.

The most agreeable times to visit Alessandria are during spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). In these months, the weather is mild and pleasant, creating ideal conditions for exploring historical sites and enjoying outdoor pursuits. Spring brings forth blooming flowers and outdoor markets, while early autumn offers harvest festivals and wine tastings with fewer crowds. Summers (July to August) can be warm and humid, with temperatures occasionally exceeding 30°C. Winters (December to February) are cooler and often damp, but can possess a particular charm for those who favor quieter streets and festive Christmas markets.

Alessandria is well-served by train, with frequent connections from major cities such as Milan, Turin, and Genoa. The city's central train station is situated at Piazzale Curiel, 8. For air travel, the closest airports are Turin Caselle, Milan Malpensa, and Linate, from which you can take a train or rent a car to reach Alessandria. The city is also accessible by car via the A21/E70 and A26/E25 motorways.

Within Alessandria, the historic center is conducive to walking, making pedestrian exploration or cycling excellent choices for getting around. Local bus services are provided by ATM, with tickets available at points of sale for 1.30 Euro or directly on the bus for 2.00 Euro. The I.A.T. (Informazioni e Accoglienza Turistica) tourist office is located beneath the arcade of the Palazzo Comunale in Piazza della Libertà. While Italian is the local language, many individuals in the tourism sector speak English. Alessandria offers various accommodation options, and booking in advance is advisable, particularly during peak seasons.