Assos

Assos, officially known as Behramkale, is an ancient Greek city along Turkey's Aegean coast in the Ayvacık district of Çanakkale province. Set dramatically on a volcanic hill, it offers a blend of profound historical depth and natural beauty, with expansive views extending across the Aegean Sea to the island of Lesbos. The town is divided into the ancient city ruins atop the hill, the late-medieval village of Behramkale, and a small, inviting harbor below, often called Iskele or Assos Liman.

This open-air museum invites visitors to wander through millennia of history, from its founding by Aeolian colonists around 1000-900 BC to its time as a significant Roman and Ottoman settlement. Assos is renowned for its well-preserved ruins, including the Temple of Athena, an ancient theater, and impressive city walls. Beyond its archaeological treasures, Assos provides a tranquil retreat with its stone houses, narrow lanes, and a relaxed Aegean atmosphere, making it a favored stop for those seeking both historical immersion and coastal serenity.

Assos was inscribed on UNESCO's Tentative List of World Heritage Sites in 2017, acknowledging its extraordinary historical significance.

## From Aeolian Settlement to Philosophical Hub Assos was founded between 1000 and 900 BC by Aeolian colonists from Lesbos. The settlers built a Doric Temple to Athena on the dominant crag around 530 BC. This temple, constructed from local andesite stone, is notable as the only Archaic-Doric temple in Anatolia. From this strategic location, the Temple of Athena was visible from a great distance at sea, serving as a protective symbol for the city.

Assos experienced its greatest period of prosperity under the rule of Hermias of Atarneus, a student of Plato, in the 4th century BC. Hermias actively encouraged philosophers to move to the city, and one of the most famous to answer this call was Aristotle. Aristotle lived in Assos for three years (348-345 BC), where he founded an academy and made innovative observations in zoology and biology. He also married Hermias's niece, Pythia, during his time in Assos. Aristotle's period in Assos ended when the Persians arrived and tortured Hermias to death, prompting Aristotle to flee to Macedonia.

## Roman and Byzantine Eras Alexander the Great liberated Assos from Persian control in 334 BC. Between 241 and 133 BC, the city prospered under the Kings of Pergamon before being absorbed into the expanding Roman Empire. Assos also holds significance in Christian history, as St. Paul visited the city during his third missionary journey (53-57 AD), traveling by foot from Troas to Assos. The city's prosperity dwindled after the Roman period, remaining a small settlement throughout the Byzantine era. During Byzantine times, it was known as Makhramion, which likely contributed to its modern official name, Behramkale.

## Ottoman Influence and Modern Rediscovery Assos became an Ottoman possession during the reign of Sultan Murad I in the 14th century. The Ottoman-era Hüdavendigar Mosque, built with ancient masonry, stands near the ruined temple on the hilltop, alongside a 14th-century humpback bridge. The site was rediscovered and initially excavated in 1880-83 by a 25-year-old American, Francis Bacon, with some findings later sent to museums in Boston and Berlin. More recent excavations began in 1981 and continue today, focusing on areas like the Western Necropolis and the Temple of Athena. Today, Assos is an active archaeological site and a popular tourist destination.

The ancient city of Assos offers a journey through time, with its key sites spread across the hilltop and down to the harbor. Begin your exploration at the Temple of Athena, crowning the acropolis 238 meters above sea level. Dating back to 530 BC, this Doric temple provides expansive views of the Aegean Sea, the island of Lesbos, and the surrounding landscape, particularly compelling at sunset. Six of its original 38 columns still stand.

Below the acropolis, explore the Ancient Theater, a well-preserved 3rd-century BC structure built into the hillside, which once accommodated 5,000 spectators and hosted gladiatorial games. The City Walls and Main Gate, dating from the 4th century BC, are among Assos' most impressive features, with remarkably preserved sections and 14-meter-high towers. The Necropolis, located outside the main gate, features sarcophagi and tombstones from the 6th century BC to the 2nd century AD.

Descend to the Assos Harbor (Iskele), an inviting area with stone houses, seafood restaurants, and clear turquoise waters. This ancient port, once vital for trade, is now a relaxing spot for meals and enjoying the sea. The modern-day village of Behramkale, with its narrow lanes and traditional stone houses, offers a glimpse into local life and artisan shops. Do not miss the 14th-century Hüdavendigar Mosque and the Ottoman bridge, both built with ancient masonry.

For optimal weather and fewer crowds, the shoulder seasons of late April to late June and early September to mid-October are ideal. During these periods, temperatures are pleasantly mild, ranging from 13-23°C (55-73°F) in May and 13-21°C (55-70°F) in October, perfect for exploring the ruins and hiking. July and August bring peak tourist season with temperatures reaching around 30°C (86°F) and larger crowds. For beach activities, water temperatures are best from June to October. Visiting on weekdays can help avoid local weekend crowds.

Assos, also known as Behramkale, is situated in the Ayvacık district of Çanakkale province. It's accessible by car, approximately 5 hours from Istanbul or 3.5 hours from Izmir. Public transport usually involves taking a bus to Ayvacık, then a minibus or taxi for the final 19 kilometers into Assos. The village and ancient sites are best explored on foot, so comfortable shoes are a necessity for navigating stone paths and uneven terrain. While driving is convenient for getting around the broader area, local taxis are available for shorter distances. Cell service can be spotty due to the natural terrain and stone architecture, making it an ideal spot for a digital detox. Entrance to the Assos Ancient City and Temple of Athena is possible with a Muzekart.