Autun

Autun, a captivating town in the heart of Burgundy, France, offers a remarkable journey through over 2,000 years of history. Once known as Augustodunum, it was founded by Emperor Augustus around 15 BC to serve as a Roman capital for the Gallic Aedui people, replacing their former center at Bibracte. This strategic decision led to the construction of a model Roman town, complete with baths, a forum, a basilica, and extensive fortifications.

Today, Autun stands as a testament to its dual Roman and Romanesque heritage, with some of the most substantial Roman remains north of Provence. Beyond its ancient ruins, the town presents a medieval quarter, characterized by narrow lanes and the imposing Saint-Lazare Cathedral, a masterwork of Romanesque architecture. Autun's blend of ancient grandeur and medieval character, set against the backdrop of the Morvan Regional Natural Park, offers a unique and enriching experience for visitors.

From Augustodunum to Autun: A Tale of Two Millennia

The history of Autun begins in the 1st century AD with its founding by Emperor Augustus. Named Augustodunum, the "city of Augustus," it was conceived as a grand Roman settlement to assert Roman dominance over the Gallic population and serve as the capital for the Aedui, a Celtic tribe allied with Rome. The Romans invested heavily in the city, endowing it with impressive infrastructure, including a 6-kilometer-long protective wall with 54 watchtowers, four defensive gates, Roman baths, a forum, and a basilica. Augustodunum quickly rose to become the second most important city in northern Gaul after Lyon, a center of culture and learning.

Despite its initial prosperity, Autun faced periods of turmoil. In 356 AD, a siege by Alemanni forces highlighted the disrepair of its walls, a situation remedied by Emperor Julian. Over the centuries, the city was repeatedly pillaged by Germanic tribes, Saracens, and Normans. In the Middle Ages, Autun regained prominence as an important religious site within the Duchy of Burgundy. The 12th century saw the construction of the magnificent Cathédrale Saint-Lazare, built to house the relics of Saint Lazarus, a figure believed in medieval times to be the brother of Mary Magdalene. This made Autun a significant pilgrimage destination along the route to Santiago de Compostela.

The city also played a role in more recent history. During the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, Giuseppe Garibaldi, leader of the Army of the Vosges, established his headquarters in Autun. The 19th century also marked the beginning of the modern oil shale industry in the region, and in 1852, the mineral Autunite was named after the town. The fight to liberate Autun from German occupation during World War II was particularly fierce for the French Resistance. Today, Autun, with its population of approximately 13,000, continues to embrace its enduring past while serving as a subprefecture of the Saône-et-Loire department.

Autun offers a compelling array of historical sites. Begin at the Roman Theatre, one of the largest in the Roman world, with a diameter of 148 meters and a capacity for up to 20,000 spectators. Its tiers of seats, built into a natural slope, still evoke the grandeur of ancient performances. Explore the city's Roman heritage further by visiting the well-preserved Porte d'Arroux and Porte Saint-André, two of the original four Roman city gates. The Porte Saint-André, in particular, retains its imposing structure with four doorways and a gallery of ten arcades. Do not overlook the enigmatic Temple of Janus, a Romano-Celtic temple with two of its four walls still standing at a height of 24 meters.

In the medieval quarter, the Cathédrale Saint-Lazare is a focal point. This 12th-century Romanesque masterwork is renowned for its architectural sculpture, especially the impactful Last Judgment tympanum above the western portal, attributed to the sculptor Gislebertus. Inside, observe the intricately carved capitals depicting biblical scenes like the Three Magi and the Suicide of Judas. The nearby Musée Rolin, housed in the 15th-century birthplace of Nicolas Rolin, displays art and artifacts from the Middle Ages and Renaissance, including Gislebertus's 'Temptation of Eve'.

Autun is a pleasant destination year-round, as it is not typically crowded. For comfortable weather ideal for exploring the Roman ruins and medieval streets, consider visiting during the spring (April, May, early June) or autumn (September, October). During these months, temperatures are generally mild, ranging from 20°C to 27°C. July and August can be quite warm, with average daily highs around 24°C to 27°C, though these months also offer the most sunshine. The Roman theatre also hosts a historical sound and light show in early August.

Autun is located in central-eastern France, within the Saône-et-Loire department of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region. While it is somewhat off the main north-south routes, it is accessible by road, with several main roads passing through the town. If traveling by train, aim for the Le Creusot-Montceau TGV station, as Autun itself does not have a TGV station. From Le Creusot-Montceau, you can take a taxi or a public bus to Autun. The town has a local public transport network called Ça roule.

The Autun Tourist Office, located downtown, can provide maps and information on guided tours, especially during the summer season (July to September). City Hall is generally open Monday to Friday, from 8:30 AM to noon and 1:30 PM to 5:00 PM, with some exceptions for public holidays and local fairs.