Béziers

Béziers, one of France's most ancient cities, offers a compelling journey through layers of time, from its Greek beginnings in 575 BCE to its central role in the Languedoc wine industry. Set upon a rocky elevation overlooking the Orb River, the city affords sweeping vistas of the surrounding vineyards and countryside. While perhaps less frequented than some of its more renowned neighbors, Béziers rewards those who wander its medieval avenues, providing an authentic glimpse into the Mediterranean way of life.

The city's identity is deeply interwoven with the Canal du Midi, a 17th-century engineering marvel that links the Mediterranean Sea to Toulouse. Béziers serves as a focal point for canal tourism, with the impressive Fonserannes Locks demonstrating the brilliance of its design. Beyond its historical weight, Béziers also lies at the core of the Languedoc wine region, presenting opportunities to explore local wineries and savor regional delicacies.

## From Greek Settlement to Roman Stronghold Béziers' narrative commences remarkably early, with archaeological findings pointing to an ancient Greek settlement established around 575 BCE, positioning it among France's most venerable cities, predating even Agde and only slightly younger than Marseille. The location has been continuously inhabited since Neolithic times. The Romans, recognizing its strategic position on the thoroughfare connecting Provence to Iberia, re-established the city as a colony for veterans in 36–35 BCE, naming it Colonia Julia Baeterrae Septimanorum. During this Roman era, Béziers exported wine to Rome, with amphorae discovered bearing inscriptions such as 'white wine of Baeterrae'. The city's Roman amphitheater, though now largely ruins, once hosted gladiatorial contests and other spectacles.

## The Cathar Crusade and Medieval Turmoil The medieval period brought considerable upheaval to Béziers, particularly during the Albigensian Crusade in the 13th century. Béziers was a bastion of Catharism, a Christian movement deemed heretical by the Catholic Church. In a lamentable event in 1209, crusaders besieged the city. Despite an ultimatum for Catholics to surrender the Cathars or depart, many refused. The city was plundered, and a brutal slaughter ensued, sparing no one, not even those who sought sanctuary in churches. The Romanesque cathedral was incinerated during this event, later to be reconstructed in the Gothic style.

## The Canal du Midi and Modern Development Béziers' fortunes revived with the construction of the Canal du Midi in the 17th century. Pierre-Paul Riquet, a Béziers native, conceived and oversaw this monumental undertaking, which connected the Mediterranean Sea to Toulouse. The canal brought prosperity, particularly for the transport of local wines. The city further flourished in the mid-19th century when vineyards in other parts of France were afflicted by phylloxera aphids. Today, Béziers continues to embrace its Occitan identity while undergoing significant renewal, with investments in its facilities and appearance.

Begin your exploration at the Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire, a Gothic fortification offering sweeping views over the Orb River valley and the surrounding vineyards. Its interior features a grand organ, elaborate altar, and striking stained-glass windows. Descend from the cathedral to wander through the inviting, narrow lanes of the old town.

A brief walk leads to the Pont Vieux, a medieval stone bridge that has spanned the Orb since the 12th century, with Roman foundations. It provides a distinct perspective of the city and the cathedral. The Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a defining characteristic of Béziers. Do not miss the Fonserannes Locks, an impressive series of eight lock chambers and nine gates that elevates boats 21.5 meters. You can embark on a leisurely boat excursion or stroll alongside the canal.

For a taste of local existence, visit Les Halles de Béziers, a lively indoor market housed in an 1891 cast-iron edifice, offering fresh regional produce, cheeses, and meats. The Allées Paul Riquet, a tree-lined promenade, is a pleasant location for a walk, dotted with cafes and leading to the Plateau des Poètes, a 19th-century 'English-style' park with lawns, ponds, and sculptures.

Béziers enjoys a Mediterranean climate, marked by warm, sunny summers and mild winters. The most agreeable times to visit are spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October). During these months, the weather is gentle, and tourist crowds are sparser. May, June, and July are considered exceptional months for their inviting climate. While November can bring significant rainfall, the city is generally welcoming year-round, offering diverse experiences depending on the season.

Béziers is well-connected by air, road, and rail. Béziers Cap d'Agde Airport offers flights from various European cities. The city is also reachable by train, with TGV services from Paris taking approximately 4 hours, and good connections from nearby cities like Montpellier and Toulouse. If driving, Béziers is a convenient stop between Toulouse and Montpellier. The city is walkable, but renting a car can be advantageous for exploring the surrounding Languedoc region and its vineyards. Public transportation, including buses and taxis, is also available. For parking, paid lots are available at Place Jean Jaurès and Place de la Madeleine (Parking Les Halles 1), both centrally situated. A complimentary parking lot can be found near the Pont Vieux. Budget approximately €50–€110 per day, excluding accommodation, depending on your travel preferences.