Bologna

Bologna, the capital of Italy's Emilia-Romagna region, is a city often known by three affectionate names: 'La Dotta' (The Learned), 'La Grassa' (The Fat), and 'La Rossa' (The Red). 'The Learned' refers to the University of Bologna, the oldest continuously operating university in the Western world, established in 1088. Its academic legacy has shaped the city's intellectual and cultural landscape for centuries. 'The Fat' celebrates Bologna's unparalleled culinary tradition, recognized for rich, flavorful dishes that have earned it the title of Italy's food capital. 'The Red' points to the terracotta hues of its medieval constructions and its historical political leanings.

Beyond its evocative names, Bologna is defined by its extensive network of porticoes, or covered walkways, which extend for over 62 kilometers (38 miles) throughout the city, with 12 sections recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2021. These architectural marvels not only provide shelter from sun and rain but also foster a unique sense of community and urban life. The city's well-preserved historical center, a result of careful restoration efforts since the late 1970s, invites exploration, revealing layers of history from its Etruscan origins to its medieval prominence.

## From Etruscan Felsina to Roman Bononia Bologna's story begins in the Bronze Age, with early settlements dating back to the 3rd millennium BCE. By the 6th century BCE, it was a significant Etruscan city known as Felsina, one of the most important settlements in the Po Valley. The city was later occupied by the Gallic Boii in the 4th century BCE before becoming a Roman colony and municipium called Bononia around 190 BCE. Under Roman rule, Bononia flourished, supporting a population of twenty thousand, impressive buildings, and a large theater.

## Medieval Growth and the Birth of a University Following the decline of the Western Roman Empire, Bologna experienced a period of barbarian incursions, falling under the control of various groups including the Visigoths, Huns, Goths, and Lombards. In the 8th century, it became part of the Lombard kingdom and later the Carolingian Empire, thriving as a frontier mark. The Middle Ages marked a significant era of growth for Bologna. It evolved into a free commune, experiencing both autonomy and conflict. This period saw the rise of its iconic tower houses, constructed by wealthy families as symbols of status and for defensive purposes. At one point, Bologna's skyline was punctuated by over 100 to 180 such towers, though only about 20 remain today, with the Asinelli and Garisenda being the most famous.

The 11th century was pivotal with the establishment of the University of Bologna in 1088, widely recognized as the oldest continuously operating university in the Western world. Initially founded by students, it became a leading center for legal studies, drawing scholars like Dante, Boccaccio, and Petrarch. The university's growth spurred urban development, including the unique system of porticoes, which were initially extensions of private buildings to create more living space for the burgeoning student population.

## Papal Rule and Modern Times From 1506 to 1796, Bologna was part of the Papal States, governed by a cardinal legate and the city's Senate. During this time, significant architectural additions were made, such as the Piazza del Nettuno and the Archiginnasio, the university's first official headquarters. Bologna's advanced hydraulic system, developed from the 12th century, also specialized in silk-weaving, making its mills technologically advanced until the 18th century. With Napoleon's arrival, Bologna briefly became the capital of the Cispadane Republic and then the second city of the Cisalpine Republic, before rejoining the Papal States after the Congress of Vienna. It eventually became part of the unified Kingdom of Italy in 1859. Though heavily bombed during World War II, Bologna was also a significant center of the Italian Resistance. Today, it remains an important hub for agriculture, industry, finance, and transportation, consistently ranking high in quality of life surveys.

Begin your exploration in Piazza Maggiore, Bologna's main square and the core of its historic center. Here, you will find the unfinished but imposing Basilica di San Petronio, one of Europe's largest churches, and the Fountain of Neptune, a 16th-century masterwork. Adjacent to Piazza Maggiore is the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio, the original seat of the University of Bologna, housing the captivating Anatomical Theatre with its intricately carved wooden interior.

No visit to Bologna is complete without experiencing its renowned porticoes. Wander along the 3.8-kilometer Portico di San Luca, the world's longest covered walkway, which ascends to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca for expansive city views. In the city center, seek out the iconic Due Torri (Two Towers), Asinelli and Garisenda, medieval symbols of affluence and authority. While the taller Asinelli Tower is currently closed for safety, its dramatic inclination remains a notable sight.

Immerse yourself in Bologna's culinary landscape at the Quadrilatero, a historic market district with narrow lanes overflowing with food stalls, artisan shops, and eateries. For art enthusiasts, the Museo d'Arte Moderna di Bologna (MAMbo) offers a collection of modern and experimental art. The Santo Stefano Religious Complex, also known as the 'Seven Churches,' presents a unique architectural and spiritual journey through interconnected buildings.

The most agreeable times to visit Bologna are during spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). During these months, the weather is mild and pleasant, with average temperatures ranging from 12°C to 22°C (54°F to 72°F), making it ideal for sightseeing and outdoor activities. Spring brings blooming gardens and cultural events, while autumn offers comfortable temperatures, vivid fall colors, and the peak of harvest and truffle seasons. Summers (June-August) can be hot and humid, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C (86°F), and many residents depart the city in August. Winters (December-February) are cold and damp, with occasional fog, but can offer good value with fewer crowds and festive events around Christmas.

Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) is well-connected to the city center. The fastest option is the Marconi Express, a monorail train that reaches Bologna Centrale train station in just 7 minutes. It operates daily from 5:40 AM to midnight, with frequent departures. A single ticket costs €12.80, and a return is €23.30, including 75 minutes of travel on urban buses. Alternatively, buses like the 944 and 949 offer slightly more economical routes, with the 949 going directly to Piazza Malpighi. Taxis are also readily available outside the arrivals terminal, costing around €20-30 for a 15-30 minute ride to the city center. Uber is also available, offering various ride options including luxury vehicles and airport transfers.

Bologna is a walkable city, especially its historic center, and the extensive portico system provides shaded paths for exploration. Public transportation, managed by Tper, includes buses and a new tram line is under construction. Consider purchasing the Bologna Welcome Card for access to museums and discounts. Strikes, particularly affecting buses and trains, can occur, usually on Fridays. Gratuities are not mandatory but appreciated for good service. Most establishments accept credit cards.