Chełm

Chełm, a city in eastern Poland's Lublin Voivodeship, is a place where layers of history are literally carved into the landscape. Situated on the Chełm upland, approximately 25 kilometers (16 miles) from the Ukrainian border, the city is built upon chalk deposits that have shaped its identity for centuries. With a population of over 60,000, Chełm serves as a regional hub, blending an industrial character with notable historical monuments in its Old Town.

Beyond its visible landmarks, Chełm holds a unique subterranean world: an extensive network of chalk tunnels. These underground passages, a result of centuries of chalk mining, are a testament to the resourcefulness of its past inhabitants and now serve as a captivating tourist attraction. The city's multicultural past, once home to Catholics, Eastern Orthodox Christians, Protestants, and Jews, is reflected in its diverse architectural heritage, though the Jewish population was tragically decimated during World War II.

Chełm's strategic location near the Uherka River, a tributary of the Bug, has made it a crossroads of cultures and conflicts throughout its long history. From its medieval beginnings as a capital of the Kingdom of Galicia–Volhynia to its periods under Polish, Austrian, and Russian rule, Chełm has witnessed significant historical events, leaving behind a compelling narrative for visitors to uncover.

## Early Settlements and Medieval Origins Archaeological research suggests that settlement in the Chełm area dates back to the beginning of the common era, with evidence of people from the Przeworsk culture inhabiting the region. By the 10th century, a wooden-stone settlement existed on Wysoka Górka. Chełm was founded around 1237 or 1240, initially as part of Rus, and quickly rose to prominence, becoming the capital of the Kingdom of Galicia–Volhynia in the third quarter of the 13th century under King Danylo Halytskyi. The city received its town rights in 1235.

## Shifting Powers and Multicultural Growth Following the Galicia–Volhynia Wars of succession, Chełm became part of the Kingdom of Poland in the mid-14th century. It was officially established as a city by King Władysław Jagiełło in 1392 and served as the capital of the Chełm Land within the Ruthenian Voivodeship of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth until the 1770s. Throughout this period, Chełm developed into a multicultural and religious center, attracting settlers of Catholic, Orthodox, and Jewish faiths. The first historical references to Jews in Chełm date back to the early 15th century, with an independent Jewish community established soon after. By the mid-16th century, a yeshiva operated in the town, and Jewish merchants played a significant role in international trade.

## Conflicts, Partitions, and Modern Development The city experienced periods of turmoil, including being burned by Bogdan Khmelnitsky's Cossacks in 1648. In the late 18th century, Chełm became one of the first towns to join Kościuszko's Uprising in 1794, but its forces were defeated by the Russians in the Battle of Chełm. As a result of the Third Partition of Poland in 1795, Chełm was annexed by Austria, then became part of the Duchy of Warsaw in 1809, and later Russia in 1815. In 1912, a local gubernia (province) was created under Russian rule. On November 2, 1918, local Poles liberated the city from Austrian rule, nine days before Poland officially regained independence.

## World War II and Post-War Era In the interwar period, Chełm was a county seat within the Lublin Voivodeship of the Second Polish Republic. Between 1926 and 1939, a modernist district called Nowe Miasto was established. However, World War II brought immense tragedy. Chełm was occupied by Nazi Germany in September 1939, and its Jewish population, which numbered around 15,000, was almost entirely murdered during the Holocaust, with many deported to the Sobibór extermination camp. The city was liberated by the Red Army in July 1944, and the Polish republic was proclaimed there on July 22, 1944. From 1975 to 1998, Chełm served as the capital of the Chełm Voivodeship.

The main landmarks and tourist attractions of Chełm offer a glimpse into its long and varied history. The most prominent is Góra Chełmska (Chełm Hill), home to the Baroque Basilica of the Birth of the Virgin Mary, a complex that has served as Ukrainian Orthodox, Ukrainian Catholic, and Roman Catholic over its history. Surrounding the basilica are a city park and a cemetery. The bell tower at the Basilica offers sweeping views of the surrounding area.

Beneath the city lies the Chełm Chalk Tunnels (Chełmskie podziemia kredowe), a labyrinth of underground corridors dug for chalk mining from the Middle Ages until the 19th century. Approximately 2 kilometers of these tunnels are open for tourists, providing a journey through geological, archaeological, and historical exhibitions. The main historic square is Plac Łuczkowskiego, adorned with colorful historic townhouses and a preserved old well.

Other notable sites include the Baroque Uściłuska Gate from 1616, the palace of Uniates from the first half of the 18th century, and the late-Baroque Church of the Sending of St. Apostles. Visitors can also explore the Orthodox churches of St. Nicklaus (15th century) and St. John the Evangelist (1840s), as well as the former Small and Old Synagogues. The Wiktor Ambroziewicz's Museum of Chełm houses archaeological and military collections, along with historical, natural, and art exhibitions.

For outdoor enthusiasts, the Żółtańce Reservoir, a popular recreational area on the Uherka River valley, offers a designated swimming area, a jetty, and water equipment rentals.

The most favorable weather in Chełm occurs from May to September, with temperatures ranging between 20°C and 26°C (68°F and 79°F). This period is ideal for exploring outdoor attractions and enjoying the city's atmosphere. June and July are particularly pleasant, with July being the warmest month. While there is some rainfall during these months, the mild conditions are excellent for sightseeing. Autumn, from September to November, offers cooler temperatures and beautiful foliage, creating a picturesque setting for visitors. Winter, from December to February, brings chilly temperatures and snowfall, transforming Chełm into a winter wonderland, suitable for indoor activities and holiday festivities.

Chełm is a relatively small city with a compact Old Town, making it easily navigable on foot. The entrance to the Chełm Chalk Tunnels and the tourist information office (Lubelska 63) are conveniently located within a short walk of each other on the main avenue, Lubelska. The tourist office provides free walking maps and brochures on the city's history and attractions.

For getting around, local buses and taxis are available. If traveling by car, Chełm is accessible via E372 south from Lublin, then east on Poland route 12. Buses connect Chełm to Lublin and Zamość, with a journey time of about an hour for each. Frequent daily trains also run to and from Lublin, taking a little over an hour. The bus station (Chełm PKS) is at Lwowska 20, and the train station (Chełm PKP) is at Kolejowa 89.

When visiting the Chalk Tunnels, individual travelers can explore at scheduled times (11:00, 13:00, and 16:00, with additional times in July and August), while groups require reservations. The underground temperature remains a constant 9°C (48°F) with about 80% humidity, so a light jacket is advisable.