Chinchón

Just 45 kilometers southeast of Madrid, Chinchón emerges from the Castilian landscape as a town where the past feels remarkably present. Its distinctive character is immediately evident in the irregular, almost theatrical, Plaza Mayor, a medieval square unlike any other. Surrounded by three-story buildings adorned with green-painted wooden balconies, the plaza serves as the heart of Chinchón, a stage for daily life and centuries of events.

Designated a Historical Complex since 1974, Chinchón's appeal extends beyond its central square, weaving through ancient streets that reveal old architecture, traditional eateries, and unexpected artistic connections. The town, with its olive groves and vineyards, offers a glimpse into a 'rural Madrid' that feels a world away from the bustling capital, inviting visitors to slow down and absorb its unique atmosphere.

## From Ancient Settlements to a Noble Town Chinchón's history stretches back to the Neolithic period, with evidence of early human settlement in the Tajo and Jarama river basin. The Celtiberians and Romans later established a presence, with the Romans developing a communication system. In the early 11th century, the area was under Arab rule for three and a half centuries, during which an irrigation system was introduced. The town itself was founded around the year 1000 as a small citadel.

Chinchón was reconquered in 1139 by Segovian militias under King Alfonso VII, linking it to the Council of Segovia. The town became a lordship in 1480, granted to Andrés Cabrera and Beatriz de Bobadilla, Marquises of Moya, by the Catholic Monarchs in gratitude for their support. The Catholic Monarchs visited Chinchón at least five times between 1494 and 1499. The 15th-century Castle of the Counts was built during this period, though it was later destroyed in the Revolt of the Comuneros in 1520 and rebuilt by the 3rd Count of Chinchón in the second half of the 16th century.

## Loyalty, Conflict, and Royal Recognition The 18th century saw Chinchón play a significant role in the War of the Spanish Succession. In 1706, the townspeople acclaimed Philip V as king in the Plaza Mayor, demonstrating their loyalty. This support led to an attack and looting by Archduke Charles's troops. In recognition of its steadfastness, Chinchón was awarded the title 'Muy Noble y Muy Leal' (Very Noble and Very Loyal) in 1739 by the House of Bourbon.

The town also endured the Peninsular War (1808-1814), during which French forces ravaged the municipality. Francisco de Goya, whose younger sister's husband was a priest in Chinchón, witnessed these events and depicted the tragedy in his engraving series The Disasters of War. Goya also famously painted María Teresa de Borbón y Vallabriga, the 15th Countess of Chinchón, whose portrait now resides in the Museo del Prado.

## Modern Era and Heritage Status In the 19th century, the Society of Wine, Vinegar, and Brandy Growers of Chinchón was founded, contributing to the town's economic growth and social improvements. Queen Maria Christina granted the society the title of 'Provider of the Royal House' due to the quality of its products. King Alfonso XIII further honored Chinchón with the title of City in 1919.

Chinchón was declared a Historical Complex in 1974, a designation that has significantly boosted its tourism and hospitality industry, making it a popular destination for both national and international visitors.

Chinchón's main draw is its Plaza Mayor, an irregular medieval square framed by arcaded buildings and 234 wooden balconies painted green. It's a place to linger at an outdoor café, imagining the royal festivals, theatrical performances, and bullfights that have taken place here over centuries.

Above the town, the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is a blend of Gothic, Plateresque, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. Inside, you'll find a significant painting by Francisco Goya, Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

Nearby, the Clock Tower stands as the sole remnant of an older parish church, offering expansive views of the town. While the Castle of the Counts (Castillo de los Condes) is currently undergoing renovations and is closed to visitors, its exterior can be admired. The Casa de la Cadena, a Baroque building from the late 17th century, is also worth seeing, notable for having hosted King Philip V in 1706.

For a taste of local culture, explore the ancient streets around the Plaza Mayor, where you can find small shops and bodegas selling local wine and Chinchón's renowned spring garlic. Don't miss the chance to try traditional sweets prepared by the Clarisa Nuns.

Chinchón is a year-round destination, but the most pleasant times to visit are spring and autumn. During these seasons, the weather is mild and ideal for exploring the town on foot. Summers, particularly July and August, can be very hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35°C (95°F), so it's advisable to carry water and seek shade if visiting during these months. Winter is colder and wetter, though sunny days are still common. Festivals like the Medieval Market in February, the Wine and Anisette Festival in early April, and the Garlic Festival in October offer unique cultural experiences.

Chinchón is approximately 45-50 minutes southeast of Madrid by car, accessible via the A-3 highway and M-311 road. Public bus line 337 also provides a direct 45-minute connection from Madrid's Conde de Casal station. While Chinchón can be enjoyed as a day trip from Madrid, staying overnight allows for a quieter experience of the town's evening ambiance. The town offers a range of accommodations, including the Parador de Chinchón, located in a former Augustinian monastery. Many restaurants around the Plaza Mayor serve traditional Castilian dishes, with specialties like suckling pig, lamb, and garlic soup. The Chinchón Tourist Office, located in the former Municipal Wash House in Plaza Mayor, provides maps, information, and guided tours.