Foça

Foça, often referred to as Eski Foça (Old Foça) to distinguish it from the newer settlement of Yeni Foça, is a captivating coastal town along Turkey's Aegean coast, approximately 70 kilometers northwest of İzmir. It is a place where ancient history intertwines with a relaxed, seaside atmosphere, offering a serene escape from bustling city life. The town is built around two bays, known as Küçükdeniz (Small Sea) and Büyükdeniz (Big Sea), resembling a half-moon shape.

Foça's allure lies in its well-preserved architectural heritage, featuring old Greek-style stone houses with lively wooden shutters that line slender, pedestrian lanes. These picturesque pathways lead to a working harbor where fishing boats gently sway, and the scent of the sea fills the air. Foça has also been recognized as a Cittaslow (slow city), reflecting its commitment to preserving a tranquil and authentic way of life. It is a destination that invites visitors to slow down, explore its deep past, and savor the simple pleasures of the Aegean.

The town is a protected natural area, with efforts to preserve both its architectural heritage and its unique natural environment, including its crystal-clear bays and Blue Flag beaches. Foça is also famously associated with the endangered Mediterranean monk seals, which have chosen the rocky bays around the town as their home and have become a symbol of the area.

Foça's history stretches back to antiquity, with its origins as the ancient Greek city of Phocaea, founded around the 9th century BC. It quickly rose to prominence as a major maritime power, establishing numerous colonies across the Mediterranean, including the significant city of Marseille in France. The town's name itself is believed to derive from the Mediterranean monk seals (phoca) that inhabited its shores.

### Ionian Influence and Early Settlements Before the Ionians, evidence suggests a walled city existed here as early as the second millennium BCE. Phocaea became an important settlement within the Ionian League, a confederation of twelve Greek city-states, playing a crucial role in regional politics and culture. The city was a center of philosophical, architectural, and sculptural advancements in the 6th century BC.

### Persian, Byzantine, and Genoese Eras In 546 BC, Phocaea fell to Persian forces. Excavations in Foça have unearthed a Persian Mausoleum, a rare example of Persian architecture in Anatolia, believed to be a monument for commanders of the Achaemenid-Persian army. The city later became a diocese center during the early Christian Byzantine Empire. In the 13th century, the Genoese took control of Phocaea as a fief from the Byzantine emperor, exploiting the region's rich alum reserves and maintaining an dynamic port.

### Ottoman Conquest and Modern Era Foça eventually became part of the Ottoman Empire in 1455 under Sultan Mehmed II. The city walls, which had seen repairs during Byzantine and Genoese rule, were further strengthened during the Ottoman period. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the town experienced significant internal migration, particularly from the Aegean Islands. Today, Foça continues to be an important archaeological center, with ongoing excavations since 1953 revealing Hellenistic-era theaters, the Temple of Athena, and the Harbor Sanctuary.

Begin your exploration in Eski Foça (Old Foça), the historical core of the town. Wander through its pedestrianized, stone-paved streets, admiring the distinctive stone houses with their colorful wooden shutters that evoke a bygone era. The Old Foça Coast and Harbor offer a charming promenade, where you can watch fishing boats, enjoy sea views, and dine at waterfront restaurants.

Dominating the headland is the Five Gates Castle (Beşkapılar Kalesi), an ancient fortress with ruined walls and towers that provide expansive views of the Aegean Sea. Nearby, you can visit the small Maritime Museum (Foça Denizcilik Müzesi) for insights into the town's seafaring past. For archaeological enthusiasts, the ongoing excavations have unearthed significant sites, including the Temple of Athena, a 6th-century BC Ionian sanctuary, and the Harbor Sanctuary.

Just outside the town, approximately 7 km to the east on the Foça-İzmir road, stands the Persian Mausoleum, also known as the Stone Tower (Taşkule). This two-story monument, dating back to around 546 BCE, is a unique example of Lycian-Lydian structure with Persian influence in Ionia. On Windmills' Hill, you will find three historic windmills, one restored, offering rustic ambiance and broad views, along with over a hundred niches carved as altars to Kybele, the ancient Anatolian Earth Mother goddess.

Foça enjoys a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild, humid winters. The most pleasant times to visit are spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October), when temperatures range from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F), ideal for exploring without the intense summer heat. Summer, particularly July and August, sees temperatures often exceeding 30°C (86°F), making midday activities challenging, though perfect for beach and water activities. Winters are mild, with temperatures around 8°C (46°F), often damp and chilly, making it less ideal for outdoor pursuits.

Getting to Foça is straightforward. If arriving internationally, fly into Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB), which is about 55 km away. From Izmir, you can reach Foça by car in about 90 minutes via the D550 highway, or by frequent bus services from the main bus terminal (Otogar), taking 1.5 to 2 hours. Another option is to take the Izban commuter train towards Aliaga, get off at Hatundere station, and then transfer to a local bus (number 744) to Foça.

Within Foça, the old town center is compact and best explored on foot, with stone-paved streets and sea views rewarding those who wander. Local dolmuş (shared minibuses) run frequently between the center and nearby neighborhoods or beaches, operating from around 7:00 AM until sunset and costing a few Turkish lira. While credit cards are widely accepted, it is wise to carry some Turkish Lira for smaller purchases and local transport. Accommodation options include cozy family guesthouses, apartment hotels, and more comfortable resort-type hotels, with many tourists preferring areas close to the promenade and historical center.