Greifswald

Greifswald, officially known as the University and Hanseatic City of Greifswald, unfolds along Germany's Baltic Sea coast. With a population of around 59,000, it is a place where medieval history intertwines with the energetic pulse of a significant student population—one in four residents is a student. The city's architectural character is largely defined by its Brick Gothic buildings, a testament to its past as a prosperous Hanseatic port.

The Ryck River flows through Greifswald, leading to the Bay of Greifswald and offering evocative views, particularly at the Museum Harbor where historic sailing ships are moored. Beyond its historical core, Greifswald is also a center for scientific research, notably in biotechnology and plasma physics, and is known as the birthplace of the influential Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich.

## From Monks to Modernity Greifswald's story begins in 1199 with Danish Cistercian monks who established Eldena Abbey at the mouth of the Ryck River. This area, then unsettled woodland, marked a border between the Danish Principality of Rügen and the Pomeranian County of Gützkow. The monks were granted the site by Rugian Prince Jaromar I, which included a natural salt evaporation pond—a valuable resource for trade.

The settlement, named Gryp(he)swold(e), meaning "Griffin's Forest" in Low German, received market rights in 1241 and a town charter under Lübeck law in 1250. The salt trade propelled Eldena Abbey into an influential religious center, while Greifswald grew into a renowned market town. By the late 13th century, its steady population growth led Greifswald to become one of the earliest members of the Hanseatic League in 1278, significantly boosting its trade and wealth. The city's independence solidified after 1296, as citizens were no longer required to serve in the Pomeranian army and dukes ceased residing there.

A pivotal moment arrived in 1456 when Mayor Heinrich Rubenow founded the University of Greifswald, one of Germany's oldest universities. The university's founding ceremony took place in St. Nikolai Cathedral, which continues to host university events today. During the Reformation, Eldena Abbey was secularized, its possessions transferred to the Pomeranian dukes, and its Gothic brick buildings were dismantled for local construction.

Greifswald came under Swedish rule in 1648 following the Peace of Westphalia, remaining part of Swedish Pomerania for over a century and a half until 1815 when it became part of Prussia. The city survived World War II largely undamaged, surrendering to the Red Army without a fight in 1945. After the war, it fell under Soviet occupation and later became part of the German Democratic Republic (GDR). During the GDR era, many medieval buildings were neglected or torn down to make way for Plattenbau apartments. Following German reunification in 1990, significant investments were made to improve the city's infrastructure and economy. In 2005, Greifswald officially adopted the title "University and Hanseatic City."

Begin your exploration at the Marktplatz (Market Square), the historic heart of Greifswald. It is ringed by restored gabled merchant houses and the Gothic Town Hall, reflecting the city's trading past. The square is a focal point for markets and civic events.

Greifswald's three Brick Gothic churches define the skyline: St. Nikolai Cathedral, St. Marien-Kirche (St. Mary's Church), and St. Jacobi-Kirche (St. Jacob's Church). St. Nikolai, the largest, features a 100-meter-high tower with a viewing balcony offering expansive views as far as the island of Rügen. The Eldena Abbey Ruins, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1199, are a significant monument of the Romantic era, famously depicted by Caspar David Friedrich.

For a glimpse into the city's maritime soul, visit the Museum Harbor, considered the largest museum port in Germany, where over 50 historical vessels are moored. Many of these ships are still lived on by their owners and participate in regattas. The nearby Wieck district offers a picturesque fishing village atmosphere with thatched-roof houses and a historic wooden bascule bridge, still operated by hand.

Delve into local art and history at the Pomeranian State Museum, which houses original paintings by Caspar David Friedrich and the rare 16th-century Croy Carpet. The Caspar David Friedrich Center, located in the artist's birthplace, provides insights into his life and family's soap-making craft.

Nature lovers can explore the University's Botanical Garden, established in 1793, featuring historic glasshouses and diverse plant collections. The Tierpark Greifswald (Animal Park) offers a collection of over 400 animals, focusing on domestic and familiar species.

The most pleasant time to visit Greifswald for warm-weather activities is from mid-June to early September. During these months, average daily temperatures range from 18–19°C, often reaching a comfortable 22–23°C during the day. While summer brings mild conditions, be prepared for some rainfall, as July is typically the wettest month. Spring and autumn offer milder temperatures and a pleasant atmosphere for exploration. Winters are cool but generally mild, with temperatures often just above freezing.

Greifswald is a compact city, making it easily explorable on foot. Given its university town status and narrow streets, it is also considered a "bicycle city," with flat surroundings ideal for cycling. Public transportation is managed by Stadtwerke Greifswald, operating six bus lines that typically pass through or depart from the central bus station (ZOB). For those venturing further, regional trains from Greifswald Hauptbahnhof offer convenient connections to nearby cities like Stralsund or the island of Usedom.

For international travelers, major airports like Copenhagen (CPH) or Szczecin (SZZ) in Poland are options, followed by train or rental car. Within Germany, Greifswald has direct train connections to major hubs like Rostock and Berlin. Accommodation options primarily consist of small private hotels, reflecting the city's peaceful character. Dining in Greifswald is often geared towards students, meaning prices are generally democratic. Do try a traditional Fischbrötchen (fish roll) with marinated Bismarck herring, or fried garfish (Hornfisch) in May, known for its unusual green bones.