Kaifeng

Kaifeng, a prefecture-level city in east-central Henan province, stands as a living testament to China's profound historical narrative. Recognized as one of the Eight Ancient Capitals of China, its roots stretch back over 4,100 years, making it one of the earliest continuously inhabited settlements in the country. During the Northern Song Dynasty (960–1127 AD), Kaifeng, then known as Dongjing (East Capital), reached its zenith, becoming the most prosperous and busiest city in China, and arguably the largest city in the world. Its strategic location along the Grand Canal cemented its status as a vital commercial metropolis and East Asia's most important trade center.

Today, Kaifeng offers a compelling blend of ancient heritage and lively local life. While many of its historical structures are reconstructions or memorials due to a past shaped by floods and conflicts, the city maintains an enchanting atmosphere. Visitors can explore architectural marvels, delve into cultural traditions, and experience a lively street food scene that continues to draw people from across the region. Kaifeng's enduring spirit is reflected in its well-preserved city walls and its unique position as the only ancient Chinese capital whose central axis has remained unchanged through millennia of rebuilding.

Beyond its historical significance, Kaifeng is a city that embraces its cultural identity, particularly through its long history of chrysanthemum cultivation and appreciation, celebrated annually with a grand festival. Its culinary scene, a birthplace of Henan Cuisine, offers a distinctive array of flavors, from savory soup dumplings to crispy fried noodles. For those seeking to connect with a storied past and experience authentic Chinese culture, Kaifeng presents an immersive journey.

## A Capital Through Dynasties Kaifeng's recorded history spans nearly 3,000 years, with its origins tracing back to the Yin-Shang period. It first rose to prominence as the capital of the Kingdom of Wei during the Warring States Period, when it was known as Daliang. The city's strategic importance grew with the construction of early canals, linking it to the Yellow River and facilitating trade.

After a period of destruction following the Qin conquest, Kaifeng was revitalized in the early 7th century, becoming a major commercial hub due to its connection to the Grand Canal. It served as the capital for several dynasties during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, including the Later Jin, Later Han, and Later Zhou. Kaifeng's most illustrious era was undoubtedly during the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127 AD). As the capital, then called Dongjing or Bianjing, it was a cosmopolitan center with a population estimated between 400,000 and 1 million, making it the largest city in the world for much of the 11th century. This period saw immense prosperity, attracting expats from various regions, including Arabians, Persians, and a well-documented Jewish community.

Despite its economic and cultural flourishing, Kaifeng's location on the floodplains of the Yellow River made it militarily vulnerable and susceptible to devastating floods. The city experienced numerous floods, with five major events between 1375 and 1416 alone. A particularly catastrophic event occurred in 1642 during a siege by Li Zicheng's rebels, when the Ming army intentionally flooded the city with Yellow River water, resulting in the deaths of all but 30,000 of its 370,000 inhabitants. The city was abandoned and later rebuilt during the Qing dynasty in 1662 and again in 1843 after another flood.

Kaifeng remained the capital of Henan province until 1954, when the provincial capital was moved to Zhengzhou. Today, the city continues to embrace its deep historical roots, with its enduring city walls and the unique characteristic of having been built and rebuilt on the same central axis for millennia.

Begin your exploration at the Iron Pagoda (Tie Ta), an 11th-century brick structure in the city's northeastern corner. Its glazed brown tiles give it the appearance of cast iron, and it has withstood centuries of natural disasters. Nearby, the Dragon Pavilion Park (Long Ting Gongyuan) sits on the former imperial palace grounds of six dynasties. It's a picturesque spot for a leisurely stroll, offering views of the Pan and Yang lakes.

For a journey back to the Song Dynasty, visit the Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden (Qingming Shanghe Yuan). This large-scale amusement park recreates the prosperous ancient city depicted in the famous 12th-century scroll painting Along the River During the Qingming Festival, complete with reconstructed buildings and daily performances. Adjacent to it is the Imperial Street of Song Dynasty (Songdu Yujie), a recreation of the bustling commercial street from that era, now lined with shops selling souvenirs and local crafts.

Delve into the city's judicial history at the Memorial Temple of Lord Bao (Lord Bao Temple), dedicated to Bao Zheng, an incorruptible official from the Song Dynasty. The complex features exhibits on his life and honest politics. Close by, the Kaifeng Yamun offers another glimpse into ancient administration. Do not miss the Xiangguo Temple (Da Xiangguo Si), a renowned Buddhist shrine rebuilt in 1766, famous for its four-sided wooden statue of Avalokitesvara. Finally, the Shanshangan Guild Hall (Shanshangan Huiguan), a luxurious Qing dynasty building, showcases exquisite architecture and the history of merchant associations.

The ideal times to visit Kaifeng are during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) months. Spring offers moderate temperatures, ranging from 10°C to 30°C, with rare rainfall. The city also hosts the Song Dynasty Culture and Art Festival in April. Autumn, particularly from late October to late November, is widely recognized as the best season due to pleasant weather and the renowned Chrysanthemum Festival, a major cultural highlight. Summers (June to August) are hot, muggy, and wet, with average daily highs above 26°C and significant precipitation. Winters (December to February) are cold and mostly dry, with average low temperatures around -4°C.

Kaifeng does not have its own airport; the nearest is Zhengzhou Xinzheng Airport (CGO), approximately an hour away. From the airport, you can take a high-speed train, a shuttle bus to Zhengzhou's Civil Aviation Hotel and then a local bus, or a taxi to Kaifeng. Kaifeng is well-connected by train, situated on the Shanghai-Xi'an line. High-speed trains offer services to Zhengzhou, Shanghai, and Hangzhou, while regular trains connect to various cities. There are two main train stations: Kaifeng Railway Station and Kaifeng North Railway Station.

Within the city, local buses are an efficient and inexpensive way to get around, with many routes starting from the railway station and covering major attractions for a fare of ¥1. Bus 20 is a dedicated sightseeing route. Taxis are also readily available, with a basic fare of ¥5 for the first 3 km and ¥1 for each additional kilometer; most rides within the city will not exceed ¥15. For a unique local experience, consider a 'bengbeng,' a motorized rickshaw, for short trips.