Kars

Kars, a city in Turkey's far northeast, offers a distinct atmosphere, a blend of rugged landscapes and a profound historical and cultural presence. Situated on a high plateau near the Armenian and Georgian borders, it stands at an elevation of 1,768 meters (5,801 feet). Kars often feels distinct from other parts of Turkey, with its grand, imperial-style buildings from the Russian period and expansive, desolate open landscapes. The city's singular identity is shaped by centuries of imperial conflicts and cross-cultural exchanges, leaving visible architectural differences as you wander its streets.

While sometimes overlooked by mainstream tourism, Kars is a destination for those seeking an off-beat adventure, offering a blend of ancient archaeological ruins, unusual architecture, and dramatic winter scenery. The city serves as a gateway to the ancient Armenian capital of Ani, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the frozen expanse of Lake Çıldır. Kars is also recognized for its hearty cuisine, particularly its acclaimed cheeses and goose dishes, designed to provide comfort against the region's famously cold winters.

From Ancient Roots to Imperial Crossroads

Kars holds a history stretching back to the Paleolithic era, with archaeological findings indicating human presence two million years ago. In classical historiography, Kars was part of the ancient region of Chorzene in the Kingdom of Armenia. It grew to prominence as the capital of the Bagratid Kingdom of Armenia from 929 to 961 AD, a period during which the city's cathedral, later known as the Church of the Holy Apostles, was constructed. After the Bagratid seat moved to Ani in 963, Kars briefly became the capital of a separate, independent kingdom called Vanand.

Over the centuries, Kars became a strategic point, battled over by numerous empires. It was captured by the Seljuks in the 11th century, then by the Mongols in the 13th century, and later devastated by Timur in 1387. The city was incorporated into the Ottoman Empire in 1514. The 19th century brought significant Russian influence; Russia captured Kars in 1828 and again in 1878, holding it until 1920. This period of Russian administration left a lasting architectural legacy, with a modern grid pattern and Baltic-style stone buildings that give Kars a distinctive European feel. Following World War I and the Turkish War of Independence, Kars officially became part of the Turkish Republic in 1920. The Treaty of Kars, signed in 1921, established the current borders between Turkey and the countries of the Caucasus.

A City of Resilience and Cultural Layers

Kars's turbulent history is reflected in its diverse cultural mosaic, influenced by Turkish, Kurdish, Terekeme, Malakan, and Dukhobor ethnic communities. This multiculturalism is evident in its architecture, where Armenian churches stand alongside Ottoman mosques and Russian-era buildings. The city's resilience is embodied by landmarks like Kars Castle, originally built in 1153 by the Saltukids and later rebuilt by the Ottomans after being destroyed multiple times. Today, Kars continues to safeguard these profound cultural assets, offering visitors a unique journey through time at the crossroads of civilizations.

Begin your exploration at Kars Castle, a formidable fortress offering sweeping views of the city and its surroundings. Originally constructed in 1153, it was extensively rebuilt in 1579 by Ottoman Sultan Murad III. Within its basalt walls, you can find barracks, an ammunition depot, and the tomb of Celal Baba.

At the foot of the castle lies the Kümbet Mosque, also known as the Church of the Twelve Apostles. This striking building, dating back to the mid-10th century as an Armenian church, was later converted into a mosque, showcasing the city's layered religious history.

Wander through the city center to observe the distinct Russian-era architecture, characterized by a grid street plan and impressive Baltic-style stone buildings. A notable example is the Fethiye Mosque, which was originally a Russian Orthodox church.

A short drive east of Kars will take you to the Ancient City of Ani, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the former capital of the Bagratid Armenian Kingdom. Here, you can explore numerous monumental structures, including the Cathedral of Ani, the Church of Tigran Honents, and the Ebu'l Menuçehr Mosque, considered the first Turkish mosque in Anatolia.

For a taste of local culture and history, visit the Kars Museum, which houses archaeological artifacts from the region, including items from Ani. Don't miss the Kars Cheese Museum in Boğatepe village, dedicated to the city's renowned cheesemaking tradition.

Kars experiences a continental climate with hot summers and cold, snowy winters. The best time to visit depends on your interests. For winter wonderland scenery, skiing at Sarıkamış, or a horse-drawn sleigh ride on frozen Lake Çıldır, December to March is ideal, though temperatures can plunge below -25°C. If you prefer milder weather for exploring historical sites like Ani, late spring (April-May) or early autumn (September-October) offer pleasant temperatures and lush green landscapes. Summer (July-early September) is comfortably warm and suitable for outdoor activities, with clearer skies.

Kars Harakani Airport (KSY) is located approximately 6 kilometers from the city center, with public buses and taxis available for transfer. For a scenic journey, consider the Eastern Express (Doğu Ekspresi) train from Ankara, a 26-30 hour sleeper train known for its epic winter views. Tickets for the tourist version of this train, which includes sightseeing stops, should be booked months in advance.

Within Kars, public transportation primarily consists of minibuses (dolmuş), which operate from 6:00 AM to 9:00 PM. These minibuses can be hailed anywhere along their route, and fares are paid in cash. Taxis are also readily available. While English isn't widely spoken, locals are generally friendly and patient, and translation apps can be helpful.

Accommodation options are available throughout the city, with hotels on Faik Bey Street being centrally located and convenient for public transport and attractions. If visiting for winter sports, consider staying in Sarıkamış, about 45 minutes from the airport, which offers hotels near the ski center.