Loches

Loches, a medieval town at the heart of the Loire Valley, invites a journey back in time. Its skyline is defined by the massive silhouette of its citadel, the Royal City, which dominates the landscape. Recognized as a "Town of Art and History" and one of the "Most Beautiful Detours of France," Loches retains an authentic character with its ancient pathways and well-preserved architecture.

Resting on the banks of the Indre River, Loches blends its profound historical past with the amenities of a modern working town. From its strategic stronghold days during the Middle Ages to its role as a favored residence of French royalty, Loches has witnessed centuries of significant events. It is a destination that captivates history enthusiasts, art lovers, and those seeking the romance of old-world France.

Loches is approximately 40 kilometers (25 miles) southeast of Tours, making it easily accessible for exploring other highlights of the Loire Valley. The town's lively market, charming boutiques, and scenic setting along the Indre River contribute to its unique blend of culture and allure.

From Roman Foundations to Royal Stronghold

Loches, originally known as the Roman Leucae, began its recorded history around the 6th century with the establishment of a priory by St. Ours. Around 900 AD, the town became a possession of the Counts of Anjou, who, over three centuries, transformed Loches into a formidable stronghold. Fulk III Nerra, known as Fulk the Black, was instrumental in building the massive stone keep between 1013 and 1035, a structure that remains one of the best-preserved examples of Romanesque military architecture in Europe.

A Pivotal Royal Residence

In 1205, King Philip Augustus of France seized Loches from King John of England, marking its transition to a royal stronghold. From the mid-13th century until the time of Charles IX, the castle served as a residence for French kings. The town played a significant role in French history, with figures like Charles VII, Louis XI, and Joan of Arc spending time within its walls. It was in the great hall of Loches Castle that Joan of Arc famously persuaded the Dauphin to go to Reims to be crowned King Charles VII after her victory at Orléans.

Intrigue and Renaissance Flourishing

Loches became a state prison in the 15th century, with Louis XI famously imprisoning his enemies in iron cages within the keep. The royal lodge was expanded in the 1500s by Charles VIII and Louis XII, and it features Anne of Brittany's flamboyant Gothic-style oratory. The town also served as a favored residence for King Charles VII and his influential mistress, Agnès Sorel, whose tomb is located in the collegiate church. Beyond its royal connections, Loches thrived as a trade hub due to its location on the route between Paris and northern Spain, leading to the development of elegant Renaissance mansions and a bustling market square.

Modern Era and Enduring Heritage

The 16th century saw Loches prosper, with important administrative, judicial, and financial services, establishing its major role in Touraine. Although the Valois dynasty's return to Ile-de-France in the 16th century led to the royal lodge's reduced use, the town's historical significance endured. The arrival of the railway in the 19th century further boosted the local economy and government services. Today, Loches is recognized for its exceptionally preserved medieval fortress and architectural heritage, with 26 listed buildings, making it a prominent cultural and historical destination in the Loire Valley.

The Royal City of Loches is the town's centerpiece, encompassing the medieval citadel. Explore the impressive Keep of Loches, an 11th-century masterpiece of Romanesque military architecture. Ascend its towers for expansive views of the town and the Indre Valley. Within the citadel, visit the Royal Lodge, a former residence of French kings where Joan of Arc met Charles VII. The Collegiate Church of Saint-Ours is another highlight, featuring unique octagonal pyramid-shaped vaults and the tomb of Agnès Sorel.

Wander through the ancient, stone-paved streets of the old town, admiring Renaissance buildings like the Hôtel de Ville (town hall) and the Chancellery, which features a facade inspired by Michelangelo. The Musée Lansyer, housed in the former home of 19th-century landscape painter Emmanuel Lansyer, showcases his works and offers insights into the town's cultural heritage. For a moment of tranquility, stroll through the public gardens of Loches, which offer excellent views of the citadel and surrounding countryside.

Do not miss the lively Loches market, held every Wednesday and Saturday morning, where you can experience local life and sample regional produce. The Saint-Antoine Church in the lower town is also worth a visit, notably for two paintings once attributed to Caravaggio.

The best time to visit Loches is during the spring and summer months, particularly from mid-June to mid-September, when the weather is warm and the gardens are in full bloom. July is typically the warmest month, with an average high of 77°F (25°C). Autumn is also a pleasant time, as the Loire Valley's vineyards turn golden and the town enjoys a quieter atmosphere. May, June, July, and September are ideal for avoiding the largest crowds while still enjoying pleasant temperatures. Winter offers a peaceful charm with fewer visitors, and the possibility of seeing the citadel dusted with snow. December, while cold, offers a festive atmosphere with Christmas events.

Loches is easily accessible, located approximately 40 km (25 miles) southeast of Tours. By car, the drive from Tours takes about 40 minutes via the D943. Loches also has a train station with connections to Tours, with the journey taking around 50 minutes. The Cité Royale is a 10-minute walk from the train station.

Free parking is available on Mail Droulin and Place de Verdun. There are also blue zone parking areas for up to 1.5 hours, requiring a parking disc. For those with motorhomes, a dedicated parking area is near the train station. Loches offers a range of shops, a post office, chemists, doctors, and a hospital. You'll find various bistros and restaurants to suit most budgets, though booking ahead is recommended on market days.