Matera

Matera, in the southern Italian region of Basilicata, is a city unlike any other. Its ancient districts, known as the Sassi (meaning 'stones'), are a labyrinth of cave dwellings, rock-hewn churches, and winding alleys carved into the soft limestone of a deep ravine. This is a place where history isn't just observed; it's lived, breathed, and walked through, with evidence of continuous human habitation stretching back over 9,000 years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world.

Once a symbol of poverty and neglect, Matera has undergone a remarkable transformation. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, and later a European Capital of Culture in 2019, the city has been reborn, with its ancient caves now housing boutique hotels, restaurants, and art galleries.

To truly experience Matera is to embrace its unique topography. The city's two main Sassi districts, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, are a captivating maze where streets often run atop other dwellings, and every turn reveals another extraordinary vista of this stone city.

From Prehistoric Settlement to 'Shame of Italy'

Matera's story begins in the Paleolithic era, with evidence of human presence dating back to around 10,000 BC. Early inhabitants found shelter in the natural caves and rock overhangs of the Gravina ravine. During the Neolithic period, around 7500 BC, people began to carve out their own caves and establish the first settled villages, practicing agriculture and producing pottery.

The city as we know it today started to take shape in the Middle Ages, with the oldest part being the Civita, and the nearby Sassi valleys gradually becoming populated. Initially, the Sassi featured loosely spaced buildings for living and working. However, over centuries, they became increasingly crowded, evolving into a unique urban area. During this time, the Sassi housed people from all social classes, and the carved-out spaces, being humid and dark, were primarily used for storage—as cellars, olive presses, granaries, and stables—rather than living quarters.

A Period of Decline and Rediscovery

By the 19th century, Matera's economy declined, and the urban population, especially the poorer classes, grew rapidly, leading to a high demand for housing. The carved-out spaces in the Sassi, once used for various activities, were converted into homes, resulting in severe overcrowding. Families often lived with their livestock, lacking basic amenities like electricity, running water, and sanitation.

These deplorable conditions gained national attention with the 1945 publication of Carlo Levi's memoir, Christ Stopped at Eboli, which described the squalor in Matera. This led to the Sassi being labeled 'the shame of Italy.' In the 1950s, the Italian government forcibly relocated approximately 16,000 residents to new, modern housing projects, leaving the ancient districts largely abandoned for decades.

Rebirth and Recognition

The turning point came in the 1980s, with a grassroots movement to reclaim and restore the Sassi. In 1993, UNESCO recognized the Sassi as a World Heritage Site, calling it 'the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region.' This designation spurred significant restoration efforts, transforming the once-abandoned caves into a thriving cultural hub. Matera's dramatic rebirth culminated in its designation as the European Capital of Culture for 2019, solidifying its place as a unique and celebrated destination.

The heart of Matera lies in its Sassi districts, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, which are best explored on foot. Wear comfortable shoes, as the paths are steep and uneven. A great starting point is Casa Noha, a historic cave house offering a 25-minute multimedia exhibition that provides essential context to Matera's history, from its ancient origins to its modern revival.

No visit to Matera is complete without exploring its rupestrian churches, which are cave churches carved into the soft tufa rock, many adorned with ancient frescoes. Santa Maria di Idris, dramatically situated on the Monterrone hill overlooking the ravine, offers impressive views and features 12th-century frescoes inside its two small cave chapels. Another significant rock church is Santa Lucia alle Malve, the first female monastic settlement of the Benedictine Order, dating back to the 8th century.

For a glimpse into the daily life of past inhabitants, visit a Casa Grotta (cave house) like the one in Vico Solitario. These furnished cave dwellings showcase the living conditions, tools, and artifacts of families who resided in the Sassi until the mid-20th century.

Don't miss the Palombaro Lungo, a colossal subterranean cistern beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This artificially excavated rock-hewn reservoir, navigable by boat, is a testament to the ingenious water collection systems developed by Matera's early dwellers. Finally, for sweeping views of the Sassi, head to Piazzetta Pascoli or the Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio detto dei Tre Archi, especially at sunset when the stone city glows golden.

The ideal times to visit Matera are late spring (May-June) or early fall (September-October). During these months, the weather is warm and pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 18-27°C (64-81°F), making it comfortable for walking the city's steep streets. Spring brings wildflowers to the Murgia Materana Park, enhancing the already extraordinary views. Autumn also offers beautiful colors and comfortable temperatures.

Summer (July-August) can be very hot, with temperatures reaching 32°C (90°F), and the intense sun reflects off the limestone. While the cave interiors remain cool, outdoor exploration can be demanding, so plan for midday breaks and carry water. Winter (December-February) is cooler, with occasional snow transforming the Sassi into a magical landscape, and tourist numbers drop significantly.

Matera's historic center, the Sassi, is largely pedestrian-only, so walking is the primary way to get around. Be prepared for steep, uneven paths and many stairs, and wear comfortable, non-slip shoes with good grip. If you're feeling tired, consider an 'Ape' (tuk-tuk) tour for a unique way to see the city.

If arriving by car, note that most of the Sassi is a ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone), meaning you cannot drive directly into the historic areas. There are several free and paid parking lots outside the ZTL, such as Parcheggio park Scotellaro or Nicoletti Parking. If staying in a cave hotel, arrange a luggage pick-up service in advance, as carrying bags through the Sassi can be challenging.

To reach Matera, the closest airport is Bari Karol Wojtyla Airport (BRI), about an hour's drive away. From Bari, you can take a private train (Ferrovie Appulo Lucane - FAL) to Matera Centrale, which takes about 90 minutes. Buses also connect Matera to Bari and other major Italian cities.