Miyajima

Miyajima, formally known as Itsukushima, is a small island in Hiroshima Bay, celebrated as one of Japan's three most picturesque views. The island is revered as a sacred place, with its name "Miyajima" meaning "Shrine Island." Its most renowned landmark is the Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its dramatic vermilion torii gate that appears to float on the water at high tide.

Beyond the celebrated gate, Miyajima offers a blend of natural splendor and spiritual depth. Wild sika deer wander freely, regarded as sacred messengers of the gods in Shinto tradition. Visitors can explore ancient temples, ascend Mount Misen for expansive views of the Seto Inland Sea, and meander through inviting avenues lined with traditional shops. The island transforms after day-trippers depart, offering a serene atmosphere for those who choose to stay overnight.

Ancient Origins and Sacred Status

Miyajima's story stretches back to ancient times, predating written records, deeply rooted in Japanese mythology. According to the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, Japan's oldest chronicles, the island's three enshrined goddesses were born from a sacred oath between the sun goddess Amaterasu and the storm god Susanoo. These deities—Ichikishimahime, Tagirihime, and Tagitsuhime—have been venerated since antiquity as protectors of maritime safety and safe passage. The island itself was revered as a sacred body, a place where gods were believed to live in harmony with mortals.

The first shrine on Miyajima is thought to have been established in 593 CE by Saeki no Kuramoto, a local governor, during the reign of Empress Suiko. For a long time, the island's sacred status meant that commoners were not allowed to set foot on it. This belief influenced the unique architectural style of Itsukushima Shrine, which was constructed over the water to remain separate from the land.

Heian Period and Taira no Kiyomori

The Heian period (794–1185) marked a significant transformation for Miyajima. In 806 CE, the monk Kobo Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism, visited the island and, recognizing its spiritual power, established Daisho-in Temple and other retreats on Mount Misen. This period saw the blending of Shinto and Buddhist traditions, known as shinbutsu-shugo, deepening Miyajima's religious significance.

The most prominent figure in the shrine's development was Taira no Kiyomori, a powerful military leader of the Heian period. In 1168, he selected Itsukushima as the ancestral shrine for the Taira clan and initiated a grand reconstruction, creating the majestic complex on stilts over the water that largely resembles what is seen today. His patronage elevated the shrine's status, making it a pilgrimage site for the Imperial Court in Kyoto.

Later Developments and Modern Era

While the shrine's influence receded during periods of political instability, it experienced revivals. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who unified Japan, commissioned the construction of Senjokaku Pavilion (Hall of 1,000 Tatami Mats) to hold a memorial service for war dead, though it remained unfinished due to his passing. The current Great Torii Gate, an emblem of Miyajima, was constructed in 1875 using camphor wood.

Miyajima's traditional craft of wooden rice scoops is also linked to its spiritual history. A monk, inspired by a dream of the goddess Benzaiten holding a lute, taught the islanders to craft these scoops, which are now considered good luck charms. In 1996, Itsukushima Shrine and its torii gate were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, solidifying Miyajima's place as a globally recognized cultural and natural marvel.

The primary attraction is the Itsukushima Shrine, with its iconic "floating" torii gate. The shrine complex, built on pillars over the Seto Inland Sea, offers different perspectives at high and low tide. During high tide, the shrine and gate appear to float, while at low tide, visitors can walk out to the base of the torii. The shrine includes a main hall, a prayer hall, and a Noh theater stage.

Mount Misen, the island's highest peak, provides expansive views of the Seto Inland Sea. You can reach the summit by hiking one of three trails or by taking the Miyajima Ropeway. On the mountain, discover ancient Buddhist temples and the Reikado Hall, home to the Eternal Flame.

At the base of Mount Misen is Daisho-in Temple, considered one of the most important Shingon Buddhist temples in western Japan. It features numerous Buddhist statues, prayer wheels, and a serene atmosphere. Nearby, Senjokaku Pavilion (Hall of 1,000 Tatami Mats) is an unfinished 16th-century hall offering a unique architectural experience.

Momijidani Park is particularly beautiful during autumn with its striking maple leaves and in spring for cherry blossoms. Throughout the island, you'll encounter gentle wild sika deer.

Miyajima enjoys a temperate climate, making it pleasant year-round. The most favorable times to visit are generally late March to early April for cherry blossoms and October to November for brilliant fall foliage, especially in Momijidani Park and on Mount Misen. These peak seasons, however, can draw crowds, so booking accommodation in advance is advisable. May and September offer agreeable temperatures and fewer visitors. For the iconic "floating" torii gate, consult the tide schedule and aim for high tide.

Miyajima is readily accessible by a brief ferry ride from Miyajimaguchi Port on the mainland. From Hiroshima Station, take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi Station (approximately 20-30 minutes), then it's a short walk to the ferry terminal. Japan Rail Pass holders can ride the JR ferry without charge. Direct boats are also available from Hiroshima Peace Park, though these are not covered by the JR Pass.

Once on the island, most attractions are within walking distance of the ferry terminal. A small 100 yen visitor tax is included in ferry tickets to support environmental conservation and upkeep of historic sites. While it's possible to bring a car by ferry, it's generally recommended to leave it at Miyajimaguchi Station due to traffic restrictions on the island. Consider staying overnight to experience the island's quieter atmosphere after day-trippers depart.