Perito Moreno

Perito Moreno, a town in Argentina's Santa Cruz Province, serves as a gateway to some of Patagonia's profound natural and historical wonders. While often confused with the renowned Perito Moreno Glacier, which is located hundreds of kilometers to the south near El Calafate, this town holds its own unique appeal. Situated 25 kilometers east of Lake Buenos Aires, also known as Lago General Carrera on the Chilean side, the town is a center for cattle ranching, agriculture, and a growing tourism industry.

With a population of 7,812 as of the 2022 census, Perito Moreno offers a glimpse into authentic Patagonian life amidst a cold semi-arid climate. It is a place where the vastness of the Patagonian steppe meets the foothills of the Andes, providing a tranquil base for exploring ancient cave art and dramatic landscapes.

From Pari-Aike to Perito Moreno

The town's origins trace back to 1910, when it was established as a crucial rest stop for travelers, drawing sustenance from the springs that give rise to the Deseado River. The indigenous Tehuelche people, long before European settlement, knew this area as 'Pari-Aike,' a name that translates to 'place of reeds' or 'source,' reflecting its natural features.

Initially, the town was officially named Nacimiento in 1927. However, its name underwent several changes. In 1944, it was renamed Lago Buenos Aires, and then in 1952, it was finally christened Perito Moreno. This renaming was a tribute to Dr. Francisco Pascasio Moreno, an Argentine explorer, naturalist, and anthropologist whose work was instrumental in mapping Patagonia and solidifying Argentine sovereignty in the region. The honorific 'Perito' signifies 'expert,' acknowledging his significant contributions.

Early settlers, a diverse mix of Spanish, English, Arabian, and Italian families, alongside the aboriginal inhabitants, primarily engaged in agriculture and cattle breeding, activities that remain important to the local economy today. The cultivation of fruits like strawberries, cherries, and raspberries, as well as vegetables, was introduced to bolster the local economy, particularly after the closure of the border to Chilean minerals that were once shipped from Puerto Deseado.

In 1981, Perito Moreno was officially declared the Archaeological Capital of Santa Cruz Province, a testament to its proximity to the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands). This site, with its prehistoric paintings dating back between 9,370 and 13,000 years, offers a profound connection to the ancient hunter-gatherer societies that once roamed this land.

The town of Perito Moreno, while distinct from the famous glacier, offers its own compelling attractions, particularly for those interested in archaeology and the vast Patagonian landscape. The primary draw is the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands), a UNESCO World Heritage site located approximately 170 kilometers south by road. Here, visitors can witness ancient cave paintings, including the iconic stenciled hands, as well as depictions of human and animal figures, rendered in black, violet, ocher, yellow, and red pigments, some dating back up to 13,000 years.

Within the town itself, the Carlos J. Gradin Museum of Archaeology is dedicated to the region's rich prehistoric past, although it was still under construction as of 2019. The museum aims to preserve and showcase the archaeological heritage that earned Perito Moreno its title as the Archaeological Capital of Santa Cruz.

Beyond the historical sites, the surrounding area provides opportunities to experience the Patagonian steppe and the nearby Lake Buenos Aires (Lago General Carrera), offering scenic drives and a chance to observe the local flora and fauna. The town also serves as a base for exploring the wider Lago Buenos Aires Department, with its cattle ranches and fruit and vegetable farms.

Perito Moreno experiences a cold semi-arid climate, characterized by cold, windy winters and comfortable, windy summers. The warm season extends from late November to mid-March, with average daily high temperatures above 64°F (18°C). January is typically the hottest month, with an average high of 69°F (21°C). The cold season runs from late May to late August, with average daily high temperatures below 48°F (9°C) and July being the coldest month, with an average low of 30°F (-1°C). While snowfall is generally not abundant due to the dry climate, it can occur from May to September.

The best time to visit for warm-weather activities is from mid-December to late February. However, the shoulder seasons of spring (October to November) and autumn (March to April) offer milder weather and fewer crowds. The wind is a constant presence throughout the year, often intensifying the feeling of cold.

Perito Moreno is located in the northwest of Santa Cruz Province, Argentina, and is accessible via paved roads such as RN43 and Ruta 40. The nearest major airport is in El Calafate, which has direct flights from Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, and Bariloche. From El Calafate, the Perito Moreno Glacier is approximately 80 kilometers (50 miles) away, a journey of about 1.5 hours by car along Provincial Route 11. It is important to remember that the town of Perito Moreno is distinct from the Perito Moreno Glacier and Perito Moreno National Park.

Within Los Glaciares National Park, where the glacier is located, there is an entrance fee, which can be paid by credit card, debit card, or in Argentine pesos. It's advisable to carry some Argentine pesos in cash, as card machines can sometimes be unreliable. While there are small cafes within the park, options are limited and can be pricey, so bringing your own snacks and water is recommended. Accommodation options are available in El Calafate, which serves as the primary base for visiting the glacier.