Saumur

Saumur, a scenic town at the core of France's Loire Valley, is a place where history, equestrian legacy, and a distinctive underground realm converge. Situated where the Loire and Thouet rivers meet, Saumur is immediately recognized by its elegant château, which rises grandly above the town. The town's architecture, defined by structures built from the local white tuffeau limestone, contributes to its singular visual character.

Beyond its visible allure, Saumur is profoundly rooted in equestrian excellence, hosting the renowned Cadre Noir, France's national riding school. The surrounding landscape features vineyards yielding celebrated sparkling and still wines, alongside an extensive network of troglodyte caves, carved into the soft limestone, revealing centuries of human ingenuity. Saumur offers a fusion of cultural depth, natural splendor, and an authentic French atmosphere, making it an ideal destination for those seeking a singular Loire Valley experience.

From Ancient Settlements to Royal Stronghold

The story of Saumur extends back thousands of years, with early settlements evidenced by the Dolmen de Bagneux, France's largest Neolithic megalith, located south of the town. The strategic significance of Saumur, particularly its river crossing at the confluence of the Loire and Thouet, led to the establishment of a monastery and a defensive fort in the 10th century by the Counts of Blois. This marked the beginning of Saumur's assertion as a notable settlement.

In the 12th century, Saumur came under the authority of the French crown, and later, the House of Plantagenet. Henry II of England rebuilt the Château de Saumur in the late 12th century after its destruction in 1067. The castle exchanged hands multiple times between Anjou and France until 1589. During the 14th century, it was transformed into a princely palace by Louis I, Duke of Anjou, brother of King Charles V, and was even known as the 'castle of love' due to its elaborately carved balustraded windows.

Saumur became a significant Huguenot stronghold following the Reformation, and a distinguished Protestant academy was established there. However, the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 led to the academy's closure and a large emigration of French Protestants. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Saumur prospered due to river trade, with goods such as wine, saltpeter, and sugar being transported along the Loire. The town also developed as an equestrian center, with the military cavalry school established in 1783, and later, the Cadre Noir. During World War II, Saumur sustained damage in 1940, with the cavalry school making a valiant stand against German forces. Today, Saumur maintains its traditions, recognized for its wines, mushrooms, and its role as an administrative and service hub.

The Enduring Legacy of Troglodyte Dwellings

The area surrounding Saumur is defined by an extensive system of troglodyte caves, carved into the soft tuffeau limestone. This stone, formed over 90 million years ago when the Loire Valley was an ocean floor, was quarried for centuries to construct many of the region's castles and buildings. The resulting caves were subsequently repurposed for various uses, from homes and stables to wine cellars and mushroom farms.

These underground dwellings offered a practical solution for local inhabitants, providing natural insulation that kept them cool in summer and warm in winter, maintaining a fairly constant temperature of approximately 12-14°C. Some troglodyte sites, such as the Village of Rochemenier, have been preserved as open-air museums, offering a glimpse into the rural way of life that existed in these subterranean homes until the 1930s. Today, many of these distinctive structures are still in use, some even transformed into hotels, restaurants, and wineries, providing visitors with a singular experience.

Begin your exploration at the Château de Saumur, a grand fortress surveying the Loire River. Once a royal residence, it now houses museums of decorative arts and horse-related artifacts. For sweeping views of the town and river, ascend to the belvedere.

Immerse yourself in Saumur's equestrian heritage with a visit to the Cadre Noir, France's national riding school. You can tour the stables, riding school, and tack room, and observe their exceptional horses. For a deeper dive into military history, the Musée des Blindés (Tank Museum) displays one of Europe's largest collections of armored vehicles.

Explore the distinctive troglodyte caves that characterize the region. Many are now utilized as wine cellars, offering tours and tastings of local sparkling and still wines. Do not overlook the Musée du Champignon (Mushroom Museum), also situated in a troglodyte cave, providing an informative and curious look at mushroom cultivation.

Wander through Saumur's historic center, with its winding lanes and half-timbered houses, and visit the Place Saint-Pierre for its weekly market. Consider a tranquil Loire River cruise for a different perspective of the town and its surroundings.

The ideal time to visit Saumur spans from late spring to early autumn, specifically May to September. During these months, the weather is mild and agreeable, with average temperatures around 21°C in July and August, perfect for outdoor activities and exploring the town. While July and August can be busy with French holidaymakers, visiting in May, June, or September offers a more serene experience with excellent weather. Autumn is also recommended for those interested in wine and heritage. Winters are mild but humid, with more frequent rain.

Saumur is readily accessible by train, with direct services from Angers, Tours, and Paris (with a transfer). By car, it is well-connected via the A85 motorway, making it a straightforward drive from Nantes or Paris. The town center is mostly flat and walkable, making it easy to explore on foot. However, some attractions like the château involve ascents. For sites further afield, such as certain troglodyte locations, a car is advisable. Parking in Saumur is generally convenient, with several free and paid options near the town center and main attractions.

For navigating the area, the Saumur Tourist Office provides free luggage storage. Public transport options to sites like the Cadre Noir are available, particularly a tourist line during the summer, but cycling or taxis are alternatives. When preparing for your trip, comfortable shoes are essential for walking on uneven surfaces, and a light waterproof jacket or umbrella is prudent due to the possibility of rain throughout the year.