Shimoda

Shimoda, a coastal city at the southern reach of the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture, occupies a central position in Japanese history. While today it is cherished for its white-sand beaches, soothing hot springs, and relaxed atmosphere, it once stood at the vanguard of Japan's dramatic introduction to the Western world. Its natural harbor and advantageous location rendered it a vital port for centuries, even serving as the Shogun's inspection post for vessels navigating between Osaka and Edo during the Edo period.

This peaceful seaside town transformed into a stage for international diplomacy in the mid-19th century. The arrival of Commodore Matthew Perry's "Black Ships" in 1854 signaled the conclusion of Japan's 200-year policy of national seclusion, known as sakoku. Shimoda became the setting for significant negotiations and treaty signings, forever altering the trajectory of Japanese history and ushering in a new epoch of diplomatic relations with the United States and other Western powers.

## From Ancient Settlement to Edo Period Port Shimoda's origins extend to prehistoric times, with Jōmon period remnants discovered within the city's boundaries. Nara period documents mention its role as a place of exile for Prince Ōtsu in 686, and Heian period records refer to its iron ore deposits. During the Sengoku period, the Odawara Hōjō clan held control of Shimoda and constructed a castle, which Toyotomi Hideyoshi later dismantled.

Under the Tokugawa shogunate, Shimoda was tenryō territory, directly overseen by the shōgun. It thrived as a seaport during the Edo period, serving as a primary port of call for coastal vessels journeying between Osaka and Edo. As a security measure, all vessels were required to stop at Shimoda before continuing to Edo until 1721.

## The Arrival of the Black Ships and the Opening of Japan The most transformative era in Shimoda's narrative began in 1854 with the arrival of Commodore Matthew Perry's "Black Ships." Although Perry's initial landing occurred near Kurihama, Shimoda became the principal location for negotiations and the signing of the Convention of Kanagawa, which effectively concluded Japan's long-standing isolationist policy. This occurrence, frequently referred to as the opening of Japan, led to the establishment of the first American Consulate in Japan at Gyokusen-ji Temple, under Consul General Townsend Harris.

In 1858, Harris negotiated the Treaty of Amity and Commerce, further solidifying diplomatic relations and opening additional Japanese ports to foreign commerce. Shimoda also hosted the signing of the Treaty of Shimoda in 1855, formalizing trade and navigation between Japan and Russia. These treaties, initially perceived as an embarrassment by the ruling Shogunate, are now recognized as pivotal junctures in Japan's history and its engagement with the wider world.

## Post-Restoration and Modern Day Following the Meiji Restoration in 1868, Shimoda's administration changed hands multiple times. The Mikomotoshima Lighthouse, completed in 1870 by British engineer Richard Henry Brunton, stands today as Japan's oldest operational lighthouse and a National Historic Monument. While the opening of Yokohama Port in 1858 led to the relocation of the American consulate and a temporary dip in Shimoda's prosperity, the city has since developed into a favored tourist destination. Today, its economy flourishes on tourism, particularly its hot spring resorts and marine activities, and commercial fishing, with Shimoda Port known for its high yield of kinmedai (splendid alfonsino).

Start your exploration of Shimoda with a walk along Perry Road, a stone-paved canal street lined with traditional homes, inviting cafes, and unique boutiques. This scenic path traces the route Commodore Perry took to Ryosenji Temple for treaty discussions. At the end of Perry Road, visit Ryosenji Temple, a National Historic Site where the Shimoda Treaty was signed. The temple also houses a museum displaying artifacts connected to Perry and the Black Ships.

For expansive views of Shimoda Bay and the coastline, ascend Mount Nesugata via the Shimoda Ropeway. At the summit, you will discover a temple, a koi pond, and walking paths. Those interested in history should also visit Gyokusen-ji Temple, which served as the first American Consulate in Japan and contains the Townsend Harris Museum and memorials to American and Russian sailors. Do not overlook Shimoda Park, a forested elevation offering scenic trails and the Monument to the Opening of US-Japan Diplomatic Relations. In June, the park is adorned with thousands of hydrangeas.

Shimoda is also well-regarded for its inviting beaches. Shirahama Beach, with its white sand and clear water, is popular for swimming and surfing. Other appealing options include Tatadohama Beach and Iritahama Beach. For a distinctive marine encounter, the Shimoda Floating Aquarium, situated in Wakanoura Bay, allows visitors to interact with dolphins and observe over 200 species of fish.

Shimoda welcomes visitors throughout the year, with each season presenting distinct attractions. For warm-weather pursuits like beach activities and marine sports, late September to early November offers agreeable temperatures. The official swimming season extends from mid-July through August, often continuing into September. June is particularly beautiful for observing the thousands of hydrangeas in bloom at Shimoda Park and on Mount Nesugata. Winter brings a daffodil festival, while early spring showcases Kawazu cherry blossoms. Mid-May is when the Kurofune Matsuri (Black Ship Festival) occurs, commemorating Perry's arrival with parades and celebrations.

Shimoda is readily accessible from Tokyo. The swiftest route involves taking a Shinkansen to Atami, then transferring to a local train on the JR Ito line and Izukyu Railway to Izukyu-Shimoda Station. This journey typically takes less than 2.5 hours. A direct JR Odoriko Limited Express train also departs from Tokyo Station, reaching Shimoda in approximately 2.5 hours. For a more economical option, local trains take about 3 hours and 40 minutes with transfers. Once in Shimoda, the central area is compact and easy to navigate on foot, with many attractions within a 30-minute walk from the station. Buses are available for reaching destinations further afield, such as the Shimoda Aquarium or Kawazu Seven Waterfalls. Consider a stay of 2 or 3 days to fully appreciate the city and its surrounding natural beauty. For dining, Shimoda offers numerous seafood restaurants, with kinmedai being a regional specialty.