Sivas

Sivas, a city in Central Anatolia, Turkey, stands as a captivating crossroads where ancient history and the birth of a modern nation converge. Situated at an elevation of 1,278 meters (4,193 feet) in the broad valley of the Kızılırmak river, it is a city defined by its deep and multi-layered past. Once a vital stop on the historic Silk Road and Persian Royal Road, Sivas was a bustling center of commerce and cultural exchange for centuries.

Today, Sivas offers a singular glimpse into Turkey's soul, with an impressive concentration of 13th-century Seljuk architecture that has earned it the moniker of an 'open-air museum.' Beyond its monumental stone buildings, the city played a crucial role in the Turkish War of Independence, serving as the headquarters for the Turkish National Movement in 1919. This blend of historical grandeur, local hospitality, and distinct cultural heritage makes Sivas an essential experience for any traveler seeking to uncover the architectural and spiritual depth of Turkey.

While Sivas is an industrial and moderately sized trade center, its economy has traditionally been rooted in agriculture. The city is also a significant communications hub, connecting north-south and east-west trade routes, and has gained new economic importance with the development of railways linking it to major Turkish cities.

From Ancient Settlements to Roman Sebasteia

The earliest traces of settlement in the Sivas region date back as far as the Hittites, around the 8th century BC, with some excavations suggesting human presence from the Neolithic Age (7000-5000 BC). The area came under Persian control in 550 BC, followed by a brief occupation by Macedonians in 334 BC, before becoming part of the Kingdom of Cappadocia. In 64 BC, the Roman general Pompey the Great founded a settlement here, initially named Megalopolis. This name was later changed to Sebasteia in honor of Emperor Augustus between 1 and 6 CE, and it became the capital of the Roman province of Armenia Minor under Emperor Diocletian in the late 3rd century AD. During the Byzantine era, Sebasteia was fortified and grew into a large, prosperous Anatolian city, playing an important role in the early history of Christianity, serving as home to saints like Saint Blaise and Saint Peter of Sebaste.

Seljuk Golden Age and Ottoman Rule

In the 11th century, Sivas came under the control of the Seljuk Turks, marking a new chapter in its history. The city flourished during this period, periodically serving as a capital alongside Konya. It was a vital center of trade along the Silk Road, leading to the construction of numerous madrasahs, mosques, and hospitals, many of which survive today. The Seljuk era saw Sivas reach an architectural peak, particularly in 1271 with the construction of three major madrasahs: the Gök Medrese, Buruciye, and Çifte Minareli. These institutions served as universities where medicine and philosophy thrived. The city was briefly sacked by the Mongols in 1243 after the Battle of Köse Dağ, and later captured and destroyed by Tamerlane in 1400.

Sivas was recaptured by the Ottomans in 1408 and became an important provincial capital, serving as the administrative center of the Eyalet of Rum for centuries. Under Ottoman rule, the city maintained its regional significance and continued to be a center for crafts like carpet weaving and textile production.

Birthplace of the Turkish Republic

The 20th century brought a pivotal moment for Sivas and the nascent Turkish Republic. In September 1919, the city hosted the historic Sivas Congress, led by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. This congress was a turning point in the Turkish War of Independence, where crucial decisions were made regarding the struggle for independence, laying the foundations of the future independent state. The building where the congress was held is now preserved as the Sivas Atatürk and Congress Museum, a significant symbol of the city's historical identity. The completion of the railway in the 1930s further boosted the city's economy and transport infrastructure.

Sivas offers a captivating journey through centuries of history, primarily showcasing its Seljuk heritage. Begin your exploration in the city square, where several architectural masterpieces are within walking distance. The Çifte Minareli Medrese (Double Minaret Madrasah), built between 1271 and 1272, is an iconic symbol of Sivas, known for its intricate stone facade and imposing twin minarets. Nearby, the Buruciye Medrese, also from 1271, is well-preserved and often houses cafes within its historical setting. The Gök Medrese (Blue Madrasah), another 1271 Seljuk masterpiece, is celebrated for its exquisite turquoise tiles and artistic relief work. The Şifaiye Medrese, built in 1217, served as a hospital and medical school, and contains the tomb of its founder, Sultan Izz al-Din Kayka'us I.

For a profound historical experience, a visit to the Great Mosque and Hospital of Divriği is essential. Located southeast of Sivas, this UNESCO World Heritage site, built between 1228 and 1243, features some of the finest stone carving in the Islamic world and is considered a masterpiece of Seljuk architecture. Back in the city center, the Sivas Atatürk and Congress Museum is a vital stop for history enthusiasts. Housed in a 19th-century building, it served as the headquarters for the Turkish National Movement in 1919 and preserves the room where the Sivas Congress was held. Do not miss the Ulu Mosque (Great Mosque), dating back to 1197, which demonstrates early Seljuk mosque design with its central courtyard and prayer hall. For a touch of nature and healing, consider Balıklı Thermal, known for its 'doctor fish' that provide a unique spa experience.

Sivas experiences a continental climate with distinct seasons. Summers are warm and dry, with average daytime temperatures reaching 25-27°C (77-81°F) in July and August. These months are ideal for sightseeing, with minimal rainfall and clear skies. Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer pleasant temperatures, though spring sees the highest number of rainy days. Winters (December to February) are cold and snowy, with temperatures often dropping below freezing, making it less ideal for exploring the city's outdoor attractions. To fully appreciate Sivas's historical and natural sites, it is recommended to allocate 3-4 days for your visit.

Sivas Nuri Demirbağ Airport (VAS) is located 22 km from the city center, with shuttle services and taxis available for transportation. Sivas is also a major railway junction, connected to Ankara by a high-speed train in about 2.5-3 hours, and regular train services to other parts of Turkey. Long-distance buses frequently connect Sivas with major Turkish cities. Once in the city, public buses, minibuses, and taxis provide convenient transportation. A 'Kent Kart' can be purchased for discounted public transport fares.

Turkish is the official language, and the currency is the Turkish Lira. Sivas is known for its artisanal crafts, including silver craftsmanship, weaving, and knife making. Sivas kilims and carpets are popular authentic souvenirs, and you can find handcrafted goods at Atatürk Street, Pasha Mosque Square, or the Jewelers' Bazaar. The city offers a range of local culinary delights, including Sivas meatballs, Sivas kebab with vegetables, and Sivas meat bread.