Takehara

Takehara, often referred to as the 'Little Kyoto of Aki,' is a city in Hiroshima Prefecture that offers a tranquil escape into Japan's past. This delightful town, situated on the Seto Inland Sea, is celebrated for its remarkably preserved historical district. Here, traditional wooden buildings, many dating back to the Edo period (1603-1868), line the streets, showcasing the architectural styles and prosperity of its former salt and sake merchants.

Unlike more crowded historical destinations, Takehara provides a peaceful atmosphere for visitors to wander its centuries-old streets. The town's unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, including its proximity to the noted 'Rabbit Island' (Okunoshima), makes it a distinctive addition to any travel itinerary in the Hiroshima area.

Takehara's allure lies in its ability to transport you to a bygone era, where the echoes of merchant life and traditional craftsmanship still resonate. From intricate latticework on facades to the serene gardens of former residences, the city invites a slower pace of exploration and a deeper appreciation for its enduring heritage.

## From Ancient Manor to Merchant Powerhouse Takehara's origins trace back to the Heian period (794-1185), when it was a manor controlled by Kyoto's influential Shimogamo Shrine. However, it was during the Edo period (1603-1868) that Takehara truly began to flourish, transforming into a significant port town on the Seto Inland Sea.

The town's prosperity was largely fueled by two key industries: salt production and sake brewing. The wide, shallow bay of Takehara, with its notable tidal fluctuations, proved ideal for salt extraction. Merchants adopted an efficient method of salt-making, known as 'irihama enden,' which involved flooding terraced salt flats with seawater and allowing it to evaporate. This innovative approach enabled large-scale production, and Takehara's salt was shipped to major cities like Osaka and Edo (present-day Tokyo), and even as far north as Hokkaido. The wealth generated from the salt trade allowed merchants to construct the grand homes and warehouses that define Takehara's historic district today.

Concurrently, sake brewing gained prominence in Takehara. The earliest brewery opened in 1733, and at one point, the city supported around twenty successful sake breweries. The rise of a merchant class and a shift towards pleasure and entertainment after the samurai era further fueled the demand for sake. Takehara's pure spring water was particularly suited for making high-quality sake, especially after a method for brewing with soft water was developed in a neighboring village in the late 19th century. This era of economic growth and relative stability saw the emergence of a refined townspeople's culture and numerous scholars.

After the Meiji Restoration (1868-1912), the salt industry faced challenges from cheaper imported salt and eventually came under state control with the Salt Monopoly Act in 1905. By 1960, the salt fields in Takehara were completely abolished, and the land was repurposed for urban development. Despite the decline of its primary industries, Takehara's commitment to preserving its architectural heritage led to its historic district being designated a National Important Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings in 1982. Today, the town continues to celebrate its past through its preserved townscape and cultural traditions, including its strong connection to the founder of Nikka Whisky, Masataka Taketsuru, who was born in Takehara.

Takehara's historic district, a designated Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, is ideal for a leisurely stroll. The main street, Honmachi-dori, is lined with traditional wooden merchant houses and warehouses featuring distinctive latticework facades and clay-fired roof tiles. Notable residences include the Yoshii Residence, the oldest surviving house in Takehara built in 1691, and the Matsusaka Residence, remodeled in 1879 with elaborate latticework and a garden designed with borrowed scenery. Many of these historic buildings now house restaurants, cafes, and craft shops.

For expansive views of the city, visit Saiho-ji Temple, which rests on a hill. Its Fumeikaku hall offers sweeping vistas of Takehara. Takehara is also known for its bamboo crafts, and you can experience making traditional bamboo items at the Machinami Bamboo Craft Workshop. Do not overlook the Fujii Sake Brewery, one of the few remaining sake brewers in the historic area, offering tastings of their award-winning sake made with local ingredients. The Takehara Historical Museum, housed in a Meiji-period building, provides insights into the town's mercantile past.

The most pleasant times to visit Takehara are during spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). During these periods, the weather is mild and comfortable for exploring the historic streets. Spring offers the beauty of cherry blossoms, while autumn brings vivid foliage. The "Takehara Longing Road" festival, held on the last weekend of October, illuminates the historic district with 5,000 bamboo lanterns, creating a magical atmosphere. Summers (June to August) are hot and humid with higher rainfall, while winters (December to February) are cold and mostly clear.

Takehara is accessible by train or a combination of train and bus from Hiroshima. From Hiroshima Station, you can take a JR train to Mihara Station, then transfer to the JR Kure Line to Takehara Station, a journey of approximately 90 minutes. Alternatively, highway buses run directly from Hiroshimaeki Bus Stop to Takehara Station, taking about 70 minutes. The preserved townscape area is a 12 to 14-minute walk from Takehara Station.

Within the historic district, many attractions are within walking distance. Bicycle rentals are also available at the Takehara Tourist Information Center, which is convenient for exploring. While some smaller businesses might have irregular hours, the main attractions are generally open. For those interested in a deeper immersion, consider an overnight stay at a traditional Japanese-style accommodation within the historic district.