Tiong Bahru

Tiong Bahru, one of Singapore's oldest housing estates, offers a compelling blend of enduring heritage and contemporary allure. Its distinctive low-rise Art Deco architecture, a striking contrast to the city's modern skyscrapers, encourages a slower, more contemplative exploration. Here, traditional kopitiams (coffee shops) and lively wet markets exist alongside stylish cafes, independent bookstores, and expressive street art, forging a singular atmosphere that appeals to both long-time residents and inquisitive visitors.

The neighborhood's character is defined by its pre-war flats, constructed by the Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT) in the 1930s, which received conservation status in 2003. These buildings, with their rounded balconies, spiral staircases, and nautical-inspired elements, display a unique architectural style known as Streamline Moderne. Beyond its visual appeal, Tiong Bahru provides a deep cultural experience, from savoring local delicacies at the celebrated Tiong Bahru Market to discovering murals that narrate Singapore's unfolding past.

Tiong Bahru offers an authentic glimpse into Singaporean life, where old-school customs seamlessly merge with modern sensibilities. It is a place where one can wander through quiet alleys, encounter unexpected delights, and feel a strong sense of community, making it a rewarding destination for those seeking a more immersive and less trodden experience.

From Cemetery to 'Den of Beauties'

The name Tiong Bahru itself offers a clue to its origins, combining the Hokkien word 'tiong' (meaning cemetery or tomb) and the Malay word 'bahru' (meaning new), referring to its past as a 'new cemetery' established around 1859. Before its transformation, the area was characterized by mangrove swamps, low hills, and Chinese burial grounds. In the 1920s, the Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT), the colonial predecessor of the Housing Development Board (HDB), acquired 70 acres of this land for a pioneering public housing project.

Construction began in the late 1930s, with the first block of SIT flats, Block 55, completed in December 1936. These early flats were designed in the Streamline Moderne style, a late Art Deco movement inspired by the speed and efficiency of modern transport like ships and airplanes. This architectural choice, with its clean lines, curved forms, and occasional porthole windows, was singular for public housing in Southeast Asia. The streets within the estate were named after prominent Chinese pioneers of the 19th and early 20th centuries, such as Tan Chay Yan and Lim Peng Nguan.

Initially, Tiong Bahru was considered an upscale estate, housing Chinese 'clerical class' individuals and even becoming known as the 'den of beauties' due to wealthy men keeping their mistresses there. After World War II, the population grew, and the area evolved into a more mixed community. In the decades that followed, Tiong Bahru continued to develop, with the opening of the Tiong Bahru Market in 1951 and Singapore's first polyclinic in 1961. In 2003, 20 blocks of these pre-war SIT flats were granted conservation status by the Urban Redevelopment Authority, preserving their unique architectural and historical significance. Today, Tiong Bahru stands as a testament to Singapore's urban planning history, a harmonious blend of its enduring past and its lively present.

A visit to Tiong Bahru is best experienced on foot, allowing you to appreciate its distinctive architecture and discover its many facets. Begin by strolling through the residential blocks, particularly around Eng Hoon Street, Yong Siak Street, and Moh Guan Terrace, to admire the Art Deco and Streamline Moderne flats with their rounded balconies, spiral staircases, and unique design elements. Look out for the expressive street murals by local artist Yip Yew Chong, which depict nostalgic scenes of local life and history, such as 'Caged Bird' and 'Pasar Tiong Bahru'.

The core of the neighborhood's culinary scene is the Tiong Bahru Market and Food Centre. Downstairs, a lively wet market offers fresh produce, while upstairs, over 100 hawker stalls serve up beloved local classics like chwee kueh from Jian Bo Shui Kueh (a Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient), lor mee, and Loo's Hainanese Curry Rice. For a taste of Singapore's burgeoning cafe culture, explore Yong Siak Street, home to popular spots like Tiong Bahru Bakery, recognized for its croissants, and Forty Hands, a pioneer in the local coffee scene.

Do not overlook the Tiong Bahru Qi Tian Gong (Monkey God Temple) on Eng Hoon Street, founded in 1920 and believed to be the first temple in Singapore dedicated to the Monkey God. For a glimpse into the area's wartime history, seek out the pre-war air raid shelter at the basement of Block 78 Moh Guan Terrace. Finally, wander through Seng Poh Garden, which features the 'Dancing Girl' sculpture, and observe the community spirit that thrives in this unique estate.

Tiong Bahru can be visited year-round due to Singapore's consistent tropical climate. However, for a more relaxed experience with fewer crowds, consider visiting during the morning or late afternoon on weekdays. Early mornings are ideal for enjoying breakfast at the hawker center before it becomes too busy and popular stalls sell out. Weekends tend to be more populated with both locals and visitors. March to August generally sees less rainfall and lower humidity, making it a pleasant time for outdoor exploration. While Singapore is always bustling, some suggest that August to October or February to April might offer slightly fewer tourist numbers.

Tiong Bahru is readily accessible via public transport. The Tiong Bahru MRT station (EW17) on the East-West Line is directly connected to Tiong Bahru Plaza, a shopping mall. From the MRT station, it is a short walk to the core of the estate. Exit A is generally the most useful for accessing the main estate and Tiong Bahru Market.

Once in the neighborhood, the best way to explore is on foot, so wear comfortable walking shoes. Many cafes and shops are concentrated around Yong Siak Street, Eng Hoon Street, and Moh Guan Terrace. Tiong Bahru Market's hawker center is wheelchair accessible, with a lift to the second-floor food area. Most hawker stalls at the market operate from early morning until around 2 PM, with some reopening in the evening. Many stalls close on Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan accordingly if you wish to experience the full array of food options. Singapore uses the Singapore Dollar (SGD).