Tongli

Tongli, an ancient water town in Jiangsu Province, provides a serene escape into a landscape where canals flow where streets might be and traditional architecture lines the waterways. Established during the Song Dynasty, this 'Oriental Venice' presents a mosaic of 15 rivers, seven islets, and 49 ancient bridges, each contributing to its singular identity. The town's preserved Ming and Qing Dynasty buildings, with their whitewashed walls and dark-tiled roofs, reflect centuries of history and a more deliberate pace of life, inviting visitors to wander its stone-paved passages and absorb its calm atmosphere.

Surrounded by five lakes, Tongli's intimate connection with water is evident in every corner, from homes constructed directly by the riverside to the traditional sampan boats that glide through its narrow passages. It is a place where the past is not merely remembered but actively lived, with cultural performances, local eateries, and artisan workshops adding layers to its authentic ambiance. Tongli offers a quieter, more intricate network of waterways compared to other ancient towns, making it a preferred location for those seeking a genuine glimpse into Jiangnan culture.

From Futu to Tongli: A Millennium of Water and Culture

The origins of Tongli extend back over 1,000 years, with its establishment dating to the Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD). The town's earliest known name was 'Futu,' signifying 'prosperous land,' a testament to its fertile surroundings and abundant resources. During the early Tang Dynasty, the designation was changed to 'Tong,' and later, in the Song Dynasty, the characters of 'Futu' were ingeniously separated and rearranged to form 'Tongli,' the name it bears today.

Tongli's strategic placement, encircled by five lakes and intersected by numerous canals, meant it was historically accessible primarily by boat. This relative seclusion shielded it from much of the turmoil of conflicts, making it an ideal retreat for affluent gentry, merchants, and scholars seeking tranquility and inspiration. This influx of prosperous residents led to the construction of numerous grand residences and private gardens, many of which date back to the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1911) Dynasties. These architectural marvels, including pavilions, towers, temples, and gardens, are still visible throughout the town, earning Tongli the designation 'Architecture Museum of the Ming and Qing Dynasties.'

In 2001, Tuisi Garden, a quintessential example of a classical Chinese garden, received recognition as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site, further solidifying Tongli's cultural importance. The town has welcomed visitors since 1986, and while it has embraced tourism, it has also made concerted efforts to preserve its cultural heritage, conducting systematic investigations of its historical blocks, traditional residences, and cultural relics since the late 1970s. Today, Tongli continues to be a lively center for traditional culture, hosting annual events like the 'Spring of Tongli International Tourism and Culture Festival' and the enchanting Lantern Festival, which display its enduring traditions and customs.

A visit to Tongli is an immersion in its waterways and historic architecture. Begin with a traditional sampan boat ride, gliding under ancient stone bridges and past waterside homes. Of the 49 bridges connecting Tongli's seven islets, the most celebrated are the 'Three Bridges'—Taiping, Jili, and Changqing—each carrying symbolic blessings. Locals still cross them for good fortune during celebrations.

Explore the UNESCO-listed Tuisi Garden, or the Retreat and Reflection Garden, a masterpiece of Qing Dynasty design where pavilions and rockeries appear to float on water. Other notable architectural sites include Chongben Hall and Jiayin Hall, both admired for their intricate wood and brick carvings. Wander through the town's narrow, stone-paved passages, some so slender they are known as 'One Person Lane.' Do not miss Nanyuan Teahouse, a historic gathering spot where you can sip regional teas and listen to traditional Suzhou-style storytelling (pingtan). For a singular cultural experience, Tongli also houses the China Sex Culture Museum, a scholarly collection of Han ceramic figurines and Ming erotic art. As evening descends, the town transforms with the soft glow of red lanterns, offering a distinctly romantic atmosphere for a leisurely stroll.

The most pleasant times to visit Tongli are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). During these seasons, the weather is mild and comfortable, with blossoming flowers in spring and colorful foliage in autumn, creating a picturesque setting. Spring also brings cultural activities like the 'Spring of Tongli International Tourism and Culture Festival.' While a winter visit can offer a unique, snow-covered landscape, summer months (July and August) can be very warm, humid, and rainy. To avoid crowds, aim for weekdays and consider visiting early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Tongli is easily accessible from nearby cities. From Suzhou, it is a 30-45 minute drive or bus ride, and the Suzhou Metro Line 4 also connects directly to Tongli. From Shanghai, a bus ride typically takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. Once in Tongli, the town is largely pedestrian-only, making comfortable walking shoes essential for navigating its stone-paved passages and bridges. While there is no general entrance fee to the town itself, a ticket (around CNY 100) is required to access most of the primary attractions, including Tuisi Garden, and is usually valid for two days. Bargaining is suggested when acquiring souvenirs.

Consider staying overnight to experience Tongli's quieter charm after the day-trippers depart, when red lanterns illuminate the canals. Many guesthouses are operated by locals who can offer valuable insights into the town. For dining, explore Mingqing Street and Zhuhang Street for traditional snacks and local delicacies like 'sock-sole crisps' (wadisu), gorgon fruit cakes, and 'champion's trotters' (Zhuangyuan pig's trotters). Do not miss the 'Three Whites of Lake Tai'—white fish, white shrimp, and whitebait—a staple of the local cuisine.