Tournai

Tournai, one of Belgium's oldest cities, presents a captivating blend of enduring culture and deep history in the Wallonia region. Founded by the Romans around 50 CE, it once served as the capital of the Frankish Empire under Childeric I and Clovis I, earning it the moniker "cradle of France." The city's strategic location on the Scheldt River, near the French border, has shaped its tumultuous past, seeing it change hands between various European powers over centuries.

Today, Tournai invites exploration with its impressive architectural heritage, including two UNESCO World Heritage sites: the majestic Cathedral of Our Lady and the oldest belfry in Belgium. Beyond these iconic structures, the city offers a network of cobbled streets, a lively Grand-Place, and a collection of municipal museums that delve into its artistic and historical narrative. From ancient Roman roots to its brief period under English rule, Tournai presents a unique array of European history, all within a city that has gracefully preserved its allure despite the ravages of war and time.

While Tournai has a deep historical resonance, it is also a living city with a modern atmosphere. Visitors can discover welcoming restaurants, fashionable bars, and distinctive boutique stores. The Scheldt River, flowing through the city, adds to the serene ambiance, inviting strolls or boat rides. The city's commitment to preserving its heritage while embracing contemporary life makes it an intriguing destination for those seeking both historical depth and a lively cultural scene.

## From Roman Outpost to Frankish Capital Tournai's story begins around 50 CE, when the Romans established it as Tornacum, a minor but strategically important stopping point where a Roman road crossed the Scheldt River. Its fortifications were strengthened in the 3rd century AD under Emperor Maximian. By the 5th century, the Salian Franks had taken possession of the city, and under King Childeric I, Tournai rose to prominence as the capital of the Frankish Empire. His son, Clovis I, who was born in Tournai, later moved the center of power to Paris. This early period cemented Tournai's historical significance, leading to its designation as the "cradle of France."

## Medieval Flourishing and Shifting Allegiances Following the partition of the Frankish empire in 843, Tournai remained in the western part, which would become France. In the 9th century, Charles the Bald made Tournai the seat of the County of Flanders. The 11th century saw the city participate in the rise of towns with a thriving woolen cloth industry, attracting prosperous merchants. This period also marked the beginning of ambitious architectural projects, including the rebuilding of the Cathedral of Our Lady. The 13th century brought the construction of the stone Pont des Trous, a military bridge over the Scheldt, which served as a vital part of the city's fortifications.

## English Rule and Habsburg Influence The 15th century was a golden age for Tournai's textile trade, with the city becoming a significant supplier of tapestries. The art of painting also flourished, producing renowned artists like Rogier van der Weyden. However, Tournai's strategic importance also made it a prize for competing European powers. In 1513, Henry VIII of England captured the city, making it the only Belgian city ever to be ruled by England. Tournai was even represented in the English Parliament in 1515. It was returned to French rule in 1519, only to be added to the possessions of Habsburg Emperor Charles V in the Low Countries in 1521. This led to a period of religious strife and economic decline, with Tournai becoming a bulwark of Calvinism before being reconquered by Spanish forces in 1581.

## Modern Era and Restoration Tournai continued to change hands, falling to Louis XIV of France in 1667, then to the Austrian Habsburgs in 1713, and again to France in 1745, before being restored to Austria in 1748. Following the Napoleonic Wars, it became part of the United Netherlands in 1815 and finally joined newly independent Belgium in 1830. The city suffered heavy damage during both World Wars, particularly from German and Allied bombardments in World War II. However, careful restoration efforts from the 1950s onwards have brought many of Tournai's ancient buildings back to their grandeur, preserving its historical narrative for future generations.

Begin your exploration at the Grand-Place, Tournai's central square, known for its distinctive triangular shape and surrounded by charming 17th-century brick facades, many of which are sensitive post-war reconstructions. Here, you'll find the Belfry of Tournai, the oldest in Belgium. Climb its 257 steps to the 72-meter summit for sweeping views of the city and, on a clear day, even France. The Belfry is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

A short walk leads to the awe-inspiring Cathedral of Our Lady (Cathédrale Notre-Dame), another UNESCO World Heritage site and a masterpiece of Romanesque and early Gothic architecture. Its five massive towers dominate the skyline, and inside, you can admire stained glass, sculptures, and the Châsse de Notre-Dame flamande reliquary.

For a glimpse into medieval residential life, seek out the Rue Barre Saint-Brice, where houses dating back to 1175 stand as some of the oldest private residences in Europe. Explore the Musée des Beaux-Arts, designed by Art Nouveau architect Victor Horta, which houses works by Manet, Monet, Rubens, and Tournai-born Rogier van der Weyden.

Other notable sights include the Tour Henri VIII, a 16th-century tower, and the remnants of the city's fortifications like Fort Rouge. The Scheldt River itself offers a relaxing atmosphere for strolls.

The best time to visit Tournai for pleasant weather and outdoor activities is from late June to early September, when temperatures are mild. During these summer months, average daytime temperatures range from 19°C to 24°C. Spring (April to June) and fall (September to October) also offer mild weather and fewer crowds. While rain is always a possibility in Belgium, Tournai experiences moderate precipitation throughout the year, with December being the wettest month and April the driest. July is typically the clearest month and receives the most sunshine.

Tournai is easily accessible by train, with direct services from major Belgian cities like Brussels taking approximately one hour. Direct trains from Lille, France, connect to the Eurostar network and take 30-60 minutes. The nearest airport is Lille Lesquin (LIL), though Brussels Airport (BRU) and Brussels South Charleroi Airport (CRL) offer more extensive flight options.

While French is the primary language, many people in the tourism industry speak English. The city center is compact and walkable, but a "petit train touristique" offers guided tours, and boat cruises on the Scheldt River are available from May to August. For those driving, parking is free in the city center on Saturdays from 12:30 pm to Monday at 9 am, with additional free car parks a short walk from the center. Tournai is generally safe, but standard precautions against pickpocketing and muggings are advisable.