Tunxi

Tunxi, now the urban center of Huangshan City in Anhui Province, is often seen as a stepping stone to the majestic Yellow Mountains. This historic city, at the confluence of the Hengjiang, Shuaishui, and Xin'an rivers, offers a compelling journey into traditional Chinese culture and architecture. Its well-preserved Old Street, with its distinctive Hui-style buildings, serves as a living museum, inviting visitors to wander through centuries of merchant history and local life.

Beyond its role as a gateway, Tunxi is a destination in its own right, blending urban comfort with the charm of ancient traditions. The city's cultural depth is evident in its ancestral halls, calligraphy, and the local Anhui cuisine and tea culture. From exploring historic ink factories to savoring regional delicacies, Tunxi provides a unique opportunity to experience a slice of authentic China before or after venturing into the surrounding natural wonders.

## The Genesis of an Ancient Thoroughfare Tunxi's history stretches back over 2,200 years, with a prefecture established during the Qin and Han dynasties. The name "Tunxi" itself is said to have originated during the Three Kingdoms period when a general, Mao Gan, quartered his army here.

The development of Tunxi Old Street began during the Song Dynasty (960-1279). When Emperor Huizong moved his capital to Lin'an (modern-day Hangzhou), architects and workmen from the Huizhou region were conscripted for the construction. Upon their return, they replicated the architectural styles they had seen, laying the foundation for Tunxi's distinctive aesthetic. By the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, Huizhou merchants, such as Cheng Weizong, began opening shops, transforming the area into a bustling commercial hub.

## A Commercial Powerhouse During the early Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), a local merchant further invested in building 47 stores, attracting even more traders and solidifying Tunxi's role as a regional distribution center. By the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Tunxi Old Street had become the primary gateway for goods entering and exiting Anhui Province. Its strategic location and thriving commerce led an American professor to describe it as an "Oriental Ancient Rome." The street's layout, often described as a "fish-bone shape," with a narrower western end and wider eastern end, further optimized its commercial flow.

## Enduring Heritage Today, Tunxi Old Street is recognized as one of China's best-preserved commercial streets, showcasing architectural styles from the Southern Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties. It remains a testament to the merchant culture of Huizhou, with many shops retaining their traditional layout of a storefront in the front and living quarters or workshops in the back. The street's historical authenticity has even made it a popular setting for films and TV series, further cementing its place as a cherished cultural landmark.

The main attraction in Tunxi is undoubtedly the Tunxi Old Street (屯溪老街), a pedestrian thoroughfare stretching over a kilometer, lined with well-preserved Ming and Qing-era buildings. Here, you can immerse yourself in the traditional Hui-style architecture, characterized by white walls, gray tiles, and intricate wood carvings. Wander through shops selling the "Four Treasures of the Study" (writing brushes, ink sticks, ink slabs, and paper), local teas like Huangshan Maofeng, and various curios and antiques.

Do not miss the Hu Kaiwen Ink Factory (胡开文墨厂), where you can witness the traditional production of inksticks, a craft dating back to the Qing dynasty. For a deeper dive into local history and art, visit the Tunxi Museum or the private Wancuilou Museum on the Old Street, which houses a collection of Ming and Qing dynasty artifacts, calligraphy, paintings, and porcelain. At the western end of the Old Street, the ancient Zhenhai Bridge, built during the Ming Dynasty, offers a picturesque view. In the evenings, the street transforms as red lanterns illuminate the traditional buildings, creating a festive atmosphere. While Tunxi Old Street is the primary attraction, the city also serves as a convenient base for exploring the nearby Huangshan Mountains (Yellow Mountains), a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its dramatic granite peaks and sea of clouds.

The most pleasant times to visit Tunxi are during spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). During these seasons, the weather is comfortable, and the scenery is particularly beautiful, with blooming flowers in spring and golden foliage in autumn. Spring, especially after a drizzle, offers the best chance to witness the famous "sea of clouds" at Huangshan. Autumn also provides clear skies and a peaceful atmosphere. Summer (June to August) can be hot and rainy, and the city, particularly Tunxi Old Street, tends to be more crowded with domestic tourists. It's advisable to avoid major Chinese holidays like National Day (October 1-7) and Labor Day (May 1-3) to steer clear of large crowds.

Tunxi is the administrative seat of Huangshan City and serves as a central transportation hub. Huangshan Tunxi International Airport (TXN) is approximately 5.5 kilometers from downtown Tunxi, offering domestic flights to major Chinese cities. High-speed trains provide efficient connections to cities like Hangzhou and Shanghai. The Huangshan Railway Station is located in Tunxi District, and shuttle buses to Huangshan Mountain Scenic Spot depart frequently from the City Bus Station.

Getting around Tunxi itself is straightforward. Tunxi Old Street is pedestrian-friendly, making it ideal for walking. Taxis and ride-hailing services are readily available and generally affordable for longer distances within the city. Public buses are an option, though English signage may be limited. For those venturing to Huangshan Mountain, buses from the City Bus Station to Tangkou Town (the base of the mountain) take about 1.5 hours. Many hotels can assist with organizing private drivers for excursions. While some English signage exists, having your hotel address written in Chinese characters can be helpful for taxi drivers.