Veliko Tărnovo

Veliko Tarnovo, often called the 'City of the Tsars,' is a historic city in north-central Bulgaria, dramatically situated on the meandering Yantra River. Its old town spreads across three prominent hills—Tsarevets, Trapezitsa, and Sveta Gora—each rising amidst the river's curves. This ancient capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185-1393) offers a picturesque backdrop of terraced houses with red roofs and winding streets, evoking a sense of its former grandeur.

Beyond its striking medieval fortifications, Veliko Tarnovo is a lively university town with a population of around 70,000 residents. It serves as an important administrative, economic, educational, and cultural hub for Northern Bulgaria. The city's deep past is intertwined with a lively present, offering a blend of historical sites, artisan workshops, and a burgeoning cultural scene with various festivals and events throughout the year.

From Ancient Settlements to Imperial Capital

The history of Veliko Tarnovo stretches back over five millennia, with the earliest traces of human presence dating to the 3rd millennium BC on Trapezitsa Hill. The Romans established the Moesia Province in the 1st century AD, recognizing the region's strategic importance for transportation. By early Byzantine times, the city had become a fortified settlement with significant agricultural and cultural standing.

The true ascent of Veliko Tarnovo began in 1185, when the brothers Asen and Petar led an uprising that ended Byzantine rule and declared the city the capital of the restored Second Bulgarian Empire. For over two centuries, until 1393, Veliko Tarnovo—then known as Tarnovgrad—was the strongest Bulgarian fortification and the most prosperous city, serving as the primary political, economic, cultural, and religious center of the empire. Its influence in Southeastern Europe was so profound that in the 14th century, as the Byzantine Empire waned, Tarnovo even laid claim to being the 'Third Rome.'

The city was a cosmopolitan hub, with Armenian, Jewish, and Roman Catholic quarters alongside the dominant Bulgarian population, fostering a rich exchange of merchants and envoys. This period saw the flourishing of the Tarnovo Artistic School in architecture, painting, and literature. However, this golden age came to an end in 1393 when Ottoman forces besieged and eventually conquered the Tsarevets Fortress, leading to the fall of the Bulgarian Empire.

During the five centuries of Ottoman rule, Veliko Tarnovo remained a resilient center of Bulgarian spirit, tradition, and culture, playing a crucial role in the Bulgarian National Revival. Arts and crafts thrived, trade flourished, and a strong sense of national self-awareness grew, fueling the desire for independence. The city was liberated by Russian troops on July 7, 1877. In 1879, the first National Assembly convened in Veliko Tarnovo to ratify Bulgaria's first constitution, the Tarnovo Constitution, which laid the groundwork for the new Bulgarian state. In recognition of its past significance, the city, originally known as Tarnovo, was officially renamed Veliko Tarnovo (Great Tarnovo) in 1965.

The undisputed highlight of Veliko Tarnovo is the Tsarevets Fortress, a medieval stronghold that served as the primary fortress and royal palace of the Second Bulgarian Empire. Explore its extensive grounds, walk along the fortress walls, and discover the ruins of the tsar's palace, numerous churches, and residential buildings. At its highest point, visit the Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension, notable for its distinctive 1980s murals depicting Bulgarian history.

Descend into the Old Town for a wander along its charming, winding streets. Gurko Street is particularly picturesque, lined with traditional 19th-century Bulgarian Revival houses that appear to lean over the Yantra River. The Samovodska Charshia Market, the historic craftsmen's quarter, offers a glimpse into traditional Bulgarian crafts, with artisans demonstrating pottery, woodcarving, and weaving.

Across the Yantra River, the Monument to the Assen Dynasty (Asen's Monument) is a striking brutalist-style sculpture commemorating the founders of the Second Bulgarian Empire. It offers another excellent vantage point for panoramic city views. For additional historical insights, visit the Trapezitsa Fortress, the second most important fortress during the Second Bulgarian Empire, with its archaeological museum and restored ramparts.

Veliko Tarnovo is a year-round destination, with each season offering a different appeal. For warm and sunny weather, the best time to visit is from May to September, with July being the hottest month. During these months, temperatures are pleasant for exploring the outdoor attractions. Autumn, particularly November, can also be a beautiful time to visit, with comfortable temperatures and bright fall foliage, and fewer crowds. Winters are cold and snowy, with January being the coldest month.

Veliko Tarnovo is easily navigable on foot, especially the Old Town and major attractions like Tsarevets Fortress, though be prepared for steep, cobbled streets. Public buses are available for longer distances, with tickets costing less than 1 EUR. Taxis are also an option, starting around 1-2 EUR, with an additional charge per kilometer. Car rentals are affordable, but navigating the city by car can be complicated due to frequent traffic reorganizations.

Getting to Veliko Tarnovo from Sofia is straightforward by bus, taking approximately 3 hours. Buses depart regularly from Sofia Central Bus Station. Train travel is slower but offers scenic views, with journeys from Sofia taking 4.5 to 6 hours. The closest airport is Gorna Oryahovitsa, about 10 km away. Consider taking a free walking tour upon arrival to get acquainted with the city and its history.