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Yokosuka

Where naval history casts a long shadow over Tokyo Bay's lively street culture.

The secrets of Yokosuka

Yokosuka, as no one tells it.

Not the postcards. The stories even locals don't know — whispered in your ear, right where they happened.

3 secrets below. Many more wait inside the tour.
Dobuita Street

This thoroughfare is more than just a place for mementos; it's a living echo of post-war cultural exchange.

Full story unlocks in the tour
Battleship Mikasa

The world's sole surviving pre-dreadnought battleship holds a narrative beyond its naval triumphs.

Full story unlocks in the tour
Yokosuka Navy Curry

The omnipresent Japanese curry possesses a surprising, strategic genesis tied to Yokosuka's naval origins.

Full story unlocks in the tour
The full tour

Discover every secret of Yokosuka

Every address, every reveal in full — in your ear, right where it happened.

Get the key to Yokosuka

You pick your stops. You walk. The voice reveals what the others miss.

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About Yokosuka

The story of Yokosuka

Yokosuka, a port city on the Miura Peninsula in Kanagawa Prefecture, extends a distinct blend of Japanese heritage and global influence. Located an hour from Tokyo, it functions as a significant naval base for both the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force and the U.S. Navy, shaping its dynamic atmosphere.

The city's character is a compelling mosaic of maritime history, coastal landscapes, and a spirited street culture. Travelers can explore historic warships, serene seaside parks, and bustling shopping districts, all while enjoying vistas of Tokyo Bay and Sagami Bay. Yokosuka is also recognized for its local culinary specialties, particularly its unique renditions of curry and burgers.

History

From Fishing Hamlet to Naval Powerhouse

Initially a small fishing hamlet, Yokosuka's course shifted dramatically with the arrival of Commodore Matthew Perry in 1853, an event that heralded Japan's opening to the world and spurred its modernization. Recognizing the need for contemporary shipbuilding facilities, the Tokugawa Shogunate, with French assistance, established the Yokosuka Iron Works in 1865. This shipyard was central to Japan's swift industrial and military transformation during the Meiji Restoration.

By 1884, Yokosuka had grown into a primary naval station for the Imperial Japanese Navy. The city continued to expand, absorbing neighboring towns and villages through the early 20th century. During World War II, the Yokosuka Navy Yard reached its zenith, encompassing 280 acres and employing over 40,000 workers, with facilities including a gun factory, ordnance depots, and a seaplane base.

Following Japan's surrender in August 1945, American occupation forces peacefully assumed control of the naval base, which has since been utilized by the U.S. Navy. The shipyard was initially decommissioned, with much of its equipment dispatched abroad as reparations. However, with the onset of the Korean War in 1950, Yokosuka Navy Base became essential for supporting the U.S. Seventh Fleet, reactivating its ship repair facilities. Today, Yokosuka remains a crucial naval facility in the Western Pacific, reflecting its enduring geopolitical consequence.

What to see

Begin at Verny Park, a French-style garden offering views of both Japanese and American naval ships in port. From here, consider the Yokosuka Naval Port Cruise, a 45-minute boat journey that provides close-up views of various vessels, from destroyers to aircraft carriers, with narration (in Japanese).

No visit is complete without exploring the Battleship Mikasa in Mikasa Park. This preserved pre-dreadnought battleship, Admiral Togo's flagship during the Russo-Japanese War, is a walkable museum ship. Mikasa Park itself is a pleasant expanse with fountains and monuments.

For a taste of local culture, make your way to Dobuita Street, known for its singular blend of American and Japanese influences. Here, you will find shops selling 'sukajan' bomber jackets, military surplus, and an assortment of American-style bars and restaurants. Be sure to try the local specialties, Yokosuka Navy Curry and the Navy Burger.

Consider a ferry trip to Sarushima (Monkey Island), the only natural uninhabited island in Tokyo Bay, offering historical ruins, swimming, fishing, and BBQ opportunities.

When to visit

Yokosuka experiences a temperate climate, with warm, humid summers and cool winters. The ideal time for warm-weather activities, such as enjoying beaches and coastal excursions, is from late July to early September, when average daily temperatures are highest. Spring offers mild weather and cherry blossoms, while autumn brings agreeable temperatures and vivid foliage. Winters are mild, making them suitable for visiting museums and indoor attractions.

Practical

Yokosuka is readily accessible from Tokyo and Yokohama. The JR Yokosuka Line and Keikyu Line both offer direct train journeys, taking about an hour from Tokyo and 30 minutes from Yokohama. The Keikyu Line to Yokosuka-Chuo Station is often suggested for its central location. Once in Yokosuka, the city is walkable, and public transportation, including local buses and train lines, is efficient for longer distances. Ferries provide scenic transport to nearby islands like Sarushima.

When preparing for your trip, consider the season: light, breathable clothing for summer; layers for spring and autumn; and a warm jacket, sweater, hat, and gloves for winter. Comfortable shoes are essential for exploring on foot. While many shops on Dobuita Street accept U.S. dollars, Japanese Yen is the primary currency.

Good to know
What is Yokosuka most recognized for?
Yokosuka is primarily known for its significant naval heritage and its role as a major port for both the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force and the U.S. Navy. It's also recognized for its unique blend of Japanese and American cultures, particularly evident on Dobuita Street, and for its local specialties like Navy Curry and Navy Burgers.
Can I visit the U.S. Navy Base in Yokosuka?
The U.S. Navy Yokosuka Base is generally restricted, but the Yokosuka City Tourist Association organizes a 'Japan USA Friendship Base History Tour' in October and November, offering a rare opportunity to visit historical sites within the base. Participation is determined by a lottery system.
What is Yokosuka Navy Curry?
Yokosuka Navy Curry is a local specialty rooted in the Imperial Japanese Navy's efforts to combat beriberi among sailors in the late 19th century. It's a Japanese-style curry, often served with rice, salad, and a glass of milk, based on a recipe from a 1908 official Naval cooking reference book.
What is a 'sukajan' jacket?
A 'sukajan' jacket, also known as a souvenir jacket, is an intricately embroidered bomber jacket made from lustrous material, often featuring oriental patterns like dragons, tigers, or eagles. Dobuita Street in Yokosuka is credited as the origin of these jackets, which became popular souvenirs for American servicemen after WWII.
Is Sarushima Island worth visiting?
Yes, Sarushima, or Monkey Island, is the only natural uninhabited island in Tokyo Bay and is a popular destination. It offers historical ruins of a former fortress, opportunities for swimming, fishing, and barbecuing, and is accessible by a short ferry ride from Mikasa Pier.
How do I get to Yokosuka from Tokyo?
Yokosuka is easily reachable from Tokyo by train. You can take the JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo Station or the Keikyu Line from Shinagawa Station. Both routes take approximately one hour, with the Keikyu Line to Yokosuka-Chuo Station often being recommended for its more central arrival point.
Yokosuka
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Get the key to Yokosuka