Mittenwald

Mittenwald, a village in the Bavarian Alps, captivates with its vivid 'Lüftlmalerei' painted houses and a long heritage of violin making. It rests in the Isar River valley, at the foot of the Karwendel Mountains and near the Austrian border, offering a harmonious blend of cultural depth and natural beauty. The town's historical significance as a trade route hub, combined with its artistic traditions, creates a destination that feels both authentic and welcoming.

Often called the 'Village of a Thousand Violins,' Mittenwald's legacy in instrument crafting is evident throughout its inviting streets. Beyond its musical renown, the village provides a gateway to the Karwendel Nature Park, one of the largest nature reserves in the Alps, and offers immediate access to alpine adventures. Whether admiring the detailed frescoes, exploring the history of violin making, or embarking on mountain trails, Mittenwald presents an intimate and concentrated alpine experience.

From Roman Road to Violin Village

Mittenwald's story begins with its strategic location on an ancient Roman trade route, the Via Raetia. This route, improved around the end of the 2nd century AD, connected Venice to Augsburg, passing through the Brenner Pass and Innsbruck. This made Mittenwald an important way station and transit center for at least two millennia.

By the 14th century, Mittenwald was granted market rights, a crucial development that solidified its role in medieval trade. For two centuries in the 15th and 16th centuries, the significant Bozner Markt, typically held in Bozen (South Tyrol), was transferred to Mittenwald, further boosting its commercial importance. The town also thrived on river traffic through to Munich, a trade that continued until the early 20th century.

A pivotal shift in Mittenwald's identity occurred in the 17th century with the emergence of violin making. Matthias Klotz (1656-1743), who studied violin making in Padua, Italy, is credited with establishing this craft in his hometown around 1685. His skills were passed down through his family and apprentices, turning Mittenwald into a leading center for violin production in Germany. The high-quality maple and spruce from the surrounding Karwendel mountains provided excellent tonewood, contributing to the renown of Mittenwald violins.

Despite the eventual decline of the Bozner Markt, the violin industry helped sustain the town. At one point, over 100 violin makers worked from their homes in Mittenwald. To preserve this artistry amidst 19th-century industrialization, King Maximilian II of Bavaria founded the Mittenwald Violin Making School in 1858, an institution that continues to train instrument artisans today. The town's coat of arms, featuring a 'crowned Aethiopian' head, reflects its 400-year association with the Prince-Bishopric of Freising, which ended in the early 19th century when Mittenwald was annexed to Bavaria.

In more recent times, the expansion of the rail network and the rise of mountain tourism further shaped Mittenwald's fortunes, transforming it into a popular summer and winter resort.

Mittenwald's pedestrianized center invites exploration of its 'Lüftlmalerei' adorned buildings, where colorful frescoes depict local stories and religious scenes. Key areas to admire these murals include Ballenhausgasse, Obermarkt, and Prof.-Schreyögg-Platz.

A visit to the Geigenbaumuseum (Violin Making Museum) is essential to understand the town's musical heritage. Housed in one of the oldest townhouses, it showcases historical instruments, tools, and documents tracing the evolution of violin production. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am to 5 pm in high season, with reduced hours in low season and closures in November and early December.

For expansive alpine views, take the Karwendelbahn cable car, which ascends to nearly 2,244 meters (7,360 feet). From the summit, numerous hiking trails offer opportunities to explore the Karwendel Alpine Park. Another popular outdoor excursion is the Leutaschklamm (Leutasch Gorge), featuring suspended walkways above rushing waters. Closer to the village, the Lautersee and Ferchensee lakes offer serene settings for walks.

Mittenwald is a year-round destination, with distinct seasonal appeals. For hiking and outdoor activities, the summer months (June to August) offer pleasant temperatures, averaging around 20°C (68°F) during the day and 10°C (50°F) at night. This period also sees the village and its murals at their most lively. Winters (December to February) are ideal for snow sports, with average daytime temperatures around 1°C (34°F) and nighttime lows of -9°C (16°F). Snowfall is significant, averaging about 150 cm annually. While June is the wettest month, July, August, and September generally offer the most comfortable weather conditions.

Mittenwald is easily accessible by train from Munich, with the journey taking approximately 1.5 to 2 hours. There are also direct rail connections to Innsbruck, Austria. Regional bus services connect Mittenwald with nearby towns like Garmisch-Partenkirchen. For those driving, access is via the A95 Autobahn from Munich. The Mittenwald train station is conveniently located just outside the pedestrianized center.

Once in Mittenwald, many attractions are within walking or biking distance, and the village has an efficient local public transportation system. For exploring more remote areas, renting a car might be beneficial. While German is helpful, English is commonly spoken in tourist areas. The Tourist-Information Mittenwald, located at Dammkarstrasse 3, provides maps and information.