Salins-les-Bains

Salins-les-Bains, a spa town in the Jura department of France, rests in a basin within the Furieuse valley, about 40 km south of Besançon. The town's identity is inextricably linked to its saline waters, a resource that has shaped its story for millennia and continues to draw visitors today. With Fort Belin watching over, Salins-les-Bains offers a blend of historical intrigue and natural tranquility.

At its core stands the Grande Saline, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2009, a monument to the region's 'white gold'—salt. This ancient saltworks, one of France's oldest factories, showcases an industrial model remarkable for its technological evolution and longevity. Beyond the saltworks, the town invites exploration of its neo-classical architecture, appealing streets, and the therapeutic benefits of its thermal baths.

Salins-les-Bains serves as a gateway to the wider Jura region, with its diverse landscapes of vineyards, rivers, and peaks. It's a destination that encourages slow tourism, offering opportunities to connect with local producers and savor the regional gastronomy.

The Enduring Legacy of Salt

The story of Salins-les-Bains is a narrative woven with salt. The exploitation of the region's salt springs dates back over 7,000 years, with evidence of salt production in the area surrounding Salins-les-Bains as early as 4300 B.C. During the Roman period, local salt production saw an interruption due to imports, but it resumed after the Romans departed in the 4th century.

By the 8th century, the existence of saltworks in Salins-les-Bains was officially recorded. In medieval times, Salins-les-Bains was a prominent town, second only to Besançon in Franche-Comté, largely due to its salt production. The 11th century saw the construction of a 165-meter-long vaulted gallery to protect the salt springs from pollution. By the 17th century, the Grande Saline produced an impressive 14,000 tons of salt annually, generating half of the region's income and supplying Burgundy, Franche-Comté, and Switzerland. This economic significance led Salins to develop a defensive system to protect its valuable resource.

Deforestation in the 17th and 18th centuries prompted the creation of the Royal Saltworks at Arc-et-Senans, located near a large forest. However, the brine from Salins continued to be essential, channeled through a 21 km pipeline to the Royal Saltworks for processing. The town's name, originally derived from 'salt,' was extended in 1926 to Salins-les-Bains with the opening of a thermal establishment in 1854, which utilized the mineral-rich waters. The Grande Saline, however, faced economic pressures and competition from sea salt, leading to its closure in 1962. The town of Salins-les-Bains purchased the site in 1966, transforming it into a heritage and tourist attraction. In 2009, the historic saltworks were recognized by UNESCO, added to the World Heritage List as an extension of the Royal Saltworks at Arc-et-Senans.

A visit to Salins-les-Bains begins with the Grande Saline, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This former saltworks, in operation for 1,200 years, offers guided tours into underground galleries dating from the 13th century. Here, you can witness a hydraulic pumping system, still in service, that extracts salt water. The tour includes a monumental underground gallery, a 19th-century balance wheel, and the last salt pan in France. The site also features a museum in its former granaries, detailing the story of salt production and the lives of salt workers.

Beyond the saltworks, explore the town center. The Rue de la République showcases neo-classical architecture, rebuilt after an early 19th-century fire. The 18th-century Town Hall, with its classical style, is notable for its past use as a local court and prison. The Collegiale Saint-Anatoile, a Gothic church from the 13th century, features an unusual facade and a clocktower that was once a defensive watchtower. For relaxation, the ThermaSalina center, opened in 2017, provides a modern spa experience with medical cures and a wellbeing space utilizing the town's salty waters.

Overlooking the town are Fort Saint-André and Fort Belin. Fort Saint-André was reinforced by the renowned French military engineer Vauban, while the 19th-century Fort Belin offers expansive views across the town. The surrounding natural environment also provides opportunities for exploration, with views of Mont Poupet and the potential to spot Mont Blanc on clear days.

The most comfortable time to visit Salins-les-Bains for general outdoor activities is from late June to early September, with a peak in the first week of August. During these months, the weather is generally clear and rainless, with perceived temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C and 27°C). The warmest month is July, with average daytime highs around 74°F (23°C). For hot-weather activities like swimming, early July to mid-August is ideal. The Grande Saline is open year-round, except in January, and the entire visit takes place indoors.

Salins-les-Bains is situated in the Jura department, approximately 40 km south of Besançon. The Grande Saline, a key attraction, offers guided tours as the only way to access its underground gallery. Tours last approximately one hour and are followed by free access to the salt museum. English guided tours are available daily at 12:30 PM from July 1st to August 31st. The underground gallery maintains a cool temperature of about 12°C (54°F) year-round, so a light layer is recommended. Animals are not permitted in the Grande Saline, with the exception of guide dogs or animals that can be carried.

Ticket prices for guided tours of the Grande Saline are €10.50 for adults, with reduced rates for children, students, and families. Combined tickets for the Grande Saline and the Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans are also available. The town center is easily walkable. For rainy days, the Grande Saline and the town center offer suitable indoor activities, with nearby towns like Poligny and Arbois providing additional options.