Splügen

Splügen, a village in Switzerland's Graubünden area, rests at 1,457 meters above sea level. It is positioned between two historically significant mountain passages: the Splügen Pass and the San Bernardino Pass. For centuries, this location served as a vital nexus for trade and transit across the Alps, linking Graubünden with Italy. The village is recognized for its carefully maintained architecture, displaying impressive palazzi and sun-darkened wooden Walser houses. In 1995, Splügen earned the Wakker Prize from the Swiss Heritage Society for its dedication to preserving its historic structures and unique character.

Splügen's distinctive identity as a 'haufendorf'—a village that grew organically with buildings clustered around a central area—lends it a particular appeal. As part of the Rheinwald municipality since 2019, Splügen offers a blend of historical depth and natural splendor. Its inclusion in the Beverin Nature Park in 2020 underscores its commitment to sustainable tourism and the preservation of local biodiversity and cultural legacy. The village provides an entry point to undisturbed wilderness, featuring lakes, glaciers, and expansive mountain views.

## A Crossroads of Alpine Trade Splügen's story is deeply interwoven with its strategic placement on ancient trade routes. The Splügen Pass, in particular, saw use as early as Roman times, with references appearing in the Itinerarium Antonini, a Roman road map from around 300 A.D. This passage fostered close connections between the dioceses of Chur and Como, and by 1396, substantial customs revenues were already being recorded.

For centuries, Splügen stood as a central point for mule drivers transporting goods across the Alps. The challenging route through the Viamala Gorge, with its 300-meter-high cliffs, formed a notable part of this journey. In the early 19th century, between 1818 and 1823, the pass road was upgraded to accommodate freight wagons and post coaches, leading to a significant increase in international trade and passenger movement, reaching its peak in the mid-1850s. Austrian Field Marshal von Bellegarde observed in 1798 that it was 'the largest merchant trading route between Milan and Germany, mainly using horses and mules.'

## Walser Settlement and Architectural Heritage The first German-speaking Walser settlers arrived in the Rheinwald, clearing forests and establishing communities, likely finding additional income as muleteers. Splügen received its first mention in records around 840 as 'cella in Speluca'. The village's architectural style, with its traditional Walser houses and imposing palazzi, mirrors its prosperous past as a trading post. A village fire in 1716 necessitated a considerable rebuilding effort, contributing to the distinct townscape visible today. The remnants of Splügen Castle, constructed around 1275 by the barons of Vaz, stand east of the village, a testament to the region's earlier defensive requirements against the advances of the Misox clan. However, the castle quickly lost its strategic importance and lay in ruins by the early 14th century.

## Modern Transformations The opening of the Gotthard Railway in 1882 significantly reduced transit traffic over the Splügen Pass, leading to a wave of emigration from the area. Efforts to construct a railway over Splügen ultimately proved unsuccessful. However, the building of the San Bernardino highway tunnel in 1967 brought new opportunities, transforming Splügen into a destination for visitors, particularly for winter sports. On January 1, 2019, Splügen, along with Hinterrhein and Nufenen, merged to form the new municipality of Rheinwald. Today, Splügen continues to evolve, balancing its deep history with a commitment to sustainable tourism within the Beverin Nature Park.

Splügen's compact village center invites leisurely exploration on foot. Stroll through its quiet lanes to admire the traditional Walser houses, defined by their robust construction designed to endure harsh winters, and the grander palazzi that speak of its past as a flourishing trading hub. The historic Reformed Church, built in 1689, stands as a notable landmark.

Just beyond the village, the remnants of Splügen Castle offer a glimpse into the region's medieval history. For a deeper understanding of local heritage, the Heimatmuseum Rheinwald provides insights into the valley's evolving life.

The surrounding natural landscape draws many. The Viamala Gorge, with its sheer cliffs and impressive bridge constructed in 1739, presents a dramatic natural spectacle, accessible via 321 steps. Further afield, the Roffla Gorge offers another striking display of water carving its path through rock. Walking is a primary activity, with over 100 km of paths, including sections of the historic Via Spluga long-distance walking trail, which traces ancient trade routes from Thusis to Chiavenna. For more demanding excursions, the Tamboalp Tour provides expansive views. In winter, the Splügen-Tambo ski area offers opportunities for skiing, snowboarding, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing.

Splügen offers distinct experiences across the seasons. Summer (June to August) is ideal for outdoor activities like walking and mountain biking, with daytime temperatures reaching around 17°C (63°F). The Splügen Pass is typically open during these months. Autumn (September to November) brings cooler temperatures and vivid fall foliage, offering a quieter experience with fewer crowds. Winter (December to February) transforms Splügen into a snow-covered landscape, perfect for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter sports at the Splügen-Tambo ski area, though the Splügen Pass itself is closed due to heavy snow. Spring (March to May) sees melting snow and blooming wildflowers, making it suitable for walking at lower elevations. June, July, and August generally offer the most pleasant weather conditions.

Splügen is accessible by car via the A13 motorway. Public transport options include PostBus connections from train stations in Chur, Thusis, or Bellinzona. During summer, there is also a regional bus service from Chiavenna, Italy, directly over the Splügen Pass. For those arriving by air, Zurich (ZRH) and Milan Malpensa (MXP) are the closest international airports, both approximately two hours away by a combination of train and bus.

Within the village, amenities include a supermarket, bakery, and several restaurants. Accommodation options range from hotels to holiday rentals. For outdoor enthusiasts, guided tours, quad tours, and brewery tours with beer tasting are available. When planning a visit, especially for walking, consult local tourist information for path conditions and pass closures, as the Splügen Pass is closed in winter.