Varese

Varese, often referred to as the 'Garden City,' is a captivating destination in Italy's Lombardy region, celebrated for its verdant parks, refined villas, and meticulously maintained gardens. Resting amidst rolling hills at the foot of the Alps, and gazing over its namesake lake, Varese offers a sophisticated and calming atmosphere. Its advantageous location, an hour's drive north of Milan and near the Swiss border, makes it an ideal escape, blending urban convenience with the beauty of the natural world.

The city's allure extends beyond its green spaces to an enchanting old town, where pedestrian streets, elegant squares, and arcades recount its past. Varese serves as a gateway to the appealing lake district and the pre-Alpine mountains, offering a diverse range of activities from leisurely strolls through historic residences to invigorating hikes in regional parks. Whether you seek cultural immersion, natural splendor, or a tranquil retreat, Varese presents a unique blend of experiences.

From Ancient Roots to a Garden City

The history of Varese is deeply rooted in antiquity, with archaeological findings, particularly the pile dwellings on Isolino Virginia in Lake Varese, indicating human habitation as early as the Neolithic era. The city's name itself is thought to derive from the Celtic root "Vara," meaning "water," a reflection of the region's abundant lakes and rivers. During the Roman era, Varese developed as a fortified point and a trade hub, connecting the plains with the Alpine passes.

In the Middle Ages, Varese strengthened its position as an important trade center and an ally of Milan. The city's spiritual character began to form with the construction of the Basilica of San Vittore and the emergence of the pilgrimage tradition to the Sacro Monte di Varese. The grand construction of the Sacred Way and its 14 chapels began in 1604, solidifying Varese's status as a spiritual center and stimulating the development of infrastructure and art.

The 18th century marked a significant transformation for Varese. In 1765, Duke Francesco III d'Este of Modena acquired Varese as a feudal possession, making it his summer residence and a hub of secular culture. Inspired by Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna, he commissioned the construction of Palazzo Estense and its magnificent gardens between 1766 and 1771, earning Varese the moniker "Garden City." The city officially gained city status in 1816 from Emperor Francis I of Austria.

The 19th century saw Varese play a role in the Italian unification, with Giuseppe Garibaldi's forces defeating Austrian troops in the Battle of Varese in 1859. The late 19th and early 20th centuries were an era of industrialization and the flourishing of the Liberty architectural style (Italian Art Nouveau), leading to the construction of numerous luxurious villas and hotels, solidifying Varese's reputation as a desirable tourist destination. In 1927, Varese became the administrative center of its newly formed province.

Begin your exploration in Varese's elegant Old Town, a network of pedestrian streets, arcades, and squares like Piazza del Podestà and Piazza San Vittore. Here, you'll find the Basilica of San Vittore with its Baroque bell tower and the 13th-century Baptistery of San Giuseppe, the city's oldest monument.

A highlight is the Palazzo Estense, now the City Hall, and its spectacular Italian-style gardens, often compared to a "Little Versailles" due to their design inspired by Schönbrunn Palace. Adjacent to these gardens is Villa Mirabello, home to the Civic Archaeological Museum.

Another essential stop is Villa Panza, an 18th-century mansion that houses a celebrated collection of American contemporary art, including site-specific installations. The surrounding English-style park offers serene views. For a spiritual and scenic journey, visit the Sacro Monte di Varese, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This 2-kilometer cobbled path features 14 Baroque chapels depicting the Mysteries of the Rosary, culminating in the Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Monte. The Sacro Monte funicular provides an alternative, picturesque ascent.

Beyond the city center, explore the shores of Lake Varese, which features a scenic cycle path. Other notable villas include Villa Toeplitz with its diverse gardens and Masnago Castle, showcasing Gothic frescoes.

The best times to visit Varese are spring and early summer, particularly from mid-April to mid-June, and also September. During these periods, the weather is milder, making it pleasant for exploring the gardens, lakes, and hills. While summer (June to August) can be warm to hot, it's often sunny in the mornings, though afternoon or evening thunderstorms are possible. May tends to be the rainiest month, so be prepared for some wet days. Winter, from December to February, is cold, with temperatures often dropping below freezing, though fog is rare.

Varese is easily accessible, located about an hour's drive north of Milan and a short distance from Malpensa airport. Trains from Milan's Cadorna station run frequently, making it a convenient day trip or a longer stay. For navigating within Varese, the city center is walkable, and public transport connects key attractions. The Sacro Monte funicular operates Thursday to Sunday, providing an easy ascent to the UNESCO site.

Accommodation options range from hotels near Corso Matteotti or Piazza Monte Grappa for central access to restaurants and transport, to more tranquil settings around Lake Varese or Sacro Monte for panoramic views. For dining, Varese offers traditional trattorias and historic cafés. Don't miss trying the local aperitivo, Apollo 11, at Pirola, or a buosino at Pasticceria Buosi. Varese is considered very safe, even for evening strolls in the well-lit city center.