Astypalaia

Astypalaia, often called the "Butterfly of the Aegean" due to its distinctive shape, offers a unique blend of Cycladic architecture and Dodecanese location. This tranquil Greek island, divided into two smaller islets connected by a narrow strip of land, captivates visitors with its whitewashed villages, historic castle, and calm beaches. It's a destination favored by Greek travelers, offering a quieter, more authentic experience away from the bustling crowds of more well-known islands.

With its laid-back pace, excellent local cuisine, and picturesque scenery, Astypalaia is ideal for those seeking relaxation and a genuine island escape. The island's capital, Chora, with its iconic windmills and Venetian castle, provides expansive views and a charming atmosphere for leisurely strolls. Beyond the main town, a network of beaches, some secluded and others more organized, invites exploration and swimming in exceptionally clear, turquoise waters.

## Ancient Roots and Mythological Beginnings Astypalaia's history stretches back to the Early Bronze Age, with evidence of Cycladic and Mycenaean habitation. The island was colonized by Megara or possibly Epidaurus, and in ancient times, it was known as Ichthyoessa, meaning "full of fish." Greek mythology tells of Astypalaia, a woman abducted by Poseidon in the form of a winged, fish-tailed leopard, who bore him two sons, Ancaeus and Eurypylus.

## Roman Treaty and Medieval Piracy During the Roman period, Astypalaia maintained a notable degree of independence, formalized by a "friendly treaty" in 105 BC that allowed Rome to use its harbors in exchange for respecting its autonomy. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the island became a base for pirates preying on shipping routes between Byzantium and Egypt. From the 9th century, it served as a bishopric under the Metropolitan of Rhodes.

## Venetian and Ottoman Rule In the early 13th century, following the Fourth Crusade, it's presumed the island came under Latin control, though this is not well-documented. The island, known as Stampalia by the Latins, is first explicitly mentioned in 1334 during a Turkish raid. Shortly before this, the Venetian nobleman Giovanni Querini purchased the island, declared himself its lord, and constructed a castle and a palace. The Querini family held Astypalaia until 1522, when it was conquered by the Ottoman Empire. The island remained under Ottoman control until 1912, with brief Venetian occupations during the Cretan War (1648-1668) and participation in the Greek War of Independence (1821-1828).

## Italian Occupation and Union with Greece On April 12, 1912, during the Italo-Turkish War, Italian forces landed on Astypalaia, making it the first Dodecanese island to be occupied by Italy. It remained under Italian governance until World War II. In a significant naval battle near Astypalaia in September 1943, the Greek destroyer Vasilissa Olga and British destroyers sank a German convoy. Finally, along with the other Dodecanese islands, Astypalaia was united with Greece on March 7, 1948. The island experienced a 7.5 magnitude earthquake in July 1956.

Astypalaia's main village, Chora, invites exploration with its whitewashed houses, traditional windmills, and the impressive Querini Castle. Wander through its narrow, winding streets, which come alive with the soft glow of lantern-lit tavernas in the evening. The Venetian castle, constructed by Giovanni Querini, offers expansive views across the island, especially at sunset. Do not overlook the eight traditional windmills in the main square of Chora, an iconic landmark.

For a change of scenery, explore Pera Gialos Bay, the old port, or visit the Archaeological Museum of Astypalaia to see artifacts from the island's ancient past. The island is also known for its diverse beaches. Livadi Beach, near Chora, is organized with tavernas and cafes, and offers protection on windy days. Kaminakia Beach is a beautiful stretch of pebbles with clear water and a taverna. Vatses Beach, accessible via a dirt road, offers a more rugged beauty with a basic beach bar. For a unique experience, take a boat trip to the nearby uninhabited islets of Koutsomiti and Kounoupa, known for their incredible beaches and azure waters.

The best time to visit Astypalaia for warm, sunny weather and pleasant seas is from May to October. May, June, and September offer ideal conditions with fewer crowds and comfortable temperatures. July and August are peak season, with the most lively atmosphere and best beach weather, but also higher prices and more visitors, particularly Greek tourists. The tourism season generally starts around the beginning of June and winds down by mid-September, with many restaurants closing after that. Visiting in the shoulder seasons of May or October can be quieter, though some establishments may still be closed.

Getting to Astypalaia is possible by domestic flight from Athens, which takes less than an hour, though flights are limited and book up quickly. Alternatively, ferries connect Astypalaia from Piraeus (Athens), a journey of 8.5-10 hours, or from other Dodecanese and Cycladic islands like Kos, Rhodes, Kalymnos, Amorgos, Naxos, and Paros.

Once on the island, renting a car, scooter, or ATV is recommended for exploring, especially given the hilly terrain and dispersed attractions. Astypalaia is pioneering green mobility with a fleet of electric vehicles available for rent or through ride-sharing services via the Astymove app. Public buses also connect Chora with Pera Gialos, Livadi, and Analipsi, with more frequent routes in summer. The island's main port is in Agios Andreas, about 2 km from Chora, while the old port is closer to Chora and used mainly by sailing boats.