Bécherel

Bécherel, a 'Petite Cité de Caractère' in Brittany, is a village where time seems to slow, inviting visitors to wander its medieval alleyways and explore a world dedicated to books. Situated about 35 kilometers north of Rennes, this charming hilltop town, with its granite houses and picturesque views, has earned the distinction of being France's first 'Cité du Livre,' or City of Books.

Since 1989, Bécherel has transformed itself into a haven for bibliophiles, with around 15 permanent bookshops, along with galleries and ateliers specializing in book-related arts like bookbinding and calligraphy. The town's commitment to literature is palpable, with events and markets held throughout the year, making it a singular cultural destination in rural France.

## From Medieval Fortress to Linen Hub Bécherel's strategic location, at an altitude of 176 meters, made it an important military stronghold from the Middle Ages. The name 'Bécherel' itself hints at its elevated position, derived from Gaulish and Breton words meaning 'pointed summit.' The first wooden castle was constructed in the lower lands, near a Roman fortified camp, by the lords of Dinan. Alain de Dinan is credited with founding the castle of Bécherel, around which a small town soon grew. By the end of the 12th century, Bécherel was encircled by walls and ramparts, becoming a coveted site during the Plantagenet wars and the War of Succession in Brittany.

## The Golden Age of Linen Following its military past, Bécherel experienced a period of prosperity between the 16th and 18th centuries, thanks to its thriving textile industry. The town became known for producing high-quality linen and hemp fabrics, which were exported and brought wealth to the shipowners of Saint-Malo. Streets like Rue de la Filanderie (Spinning Mill Street) and Rue de la Chanvrerie (Hemp Farm Street) still bear witness to this significant textile heritage. This industry, however, declined with the advent of cheaper cotton.

## Rebirth as a City of Books By the 1960s, Bécherel faced a period of decline, with its old town center becoming almost abandoned. In 1978, it was recognized as a 'Petite Cité de Caractère,' a national designation for small rural communities with historical significance and architectural heritage. However, its true renaissance began in 1989 when a local cultural association, Savenn Douar, organized the first book festival and officially designated Bécherel as a 'Cité du Livre' (City of Books), making it the first in France and the third in Europe. This initiative, spearheaded by a diverse group of locals, invited vintage booksellers to open shops in the town's historic buildings, transforming Bécherel into the literary hub it is today.

Begin your exploration in the central Place des Anciennes Halles, a lively square surrounded by historic stone and timber buildings, including the 16th-century, half-timbered Logis de la Flanderie. From here, wander through the medieval alleyways, where you'll discover the numerous bookshops that give Bécherel its unique character.

Ascend to the ramparts and the ancient dungeon for expansive views of the surrounding countryside. Near the 17th-century church, a panoramic viewpoint offers particularly lovely vistas. For a tranquil escape, visit the Thabor Garden, a verdant space with stone walls and steps, built on the former site of the castle. Do not overlook the old covered wash house of La Couaille and the nearby Dye Pond, which offer pleasant settings for a stroll and serve as starting points for hiking trails. The Maison du Livre et du Tourisme de Bécherel (House of Books and Tourism) provides information on exhibitions and workshops. Just outside Bécherel, the Château de Caradeuc features the largest park in Brittany, earning it the nickname 'Brittany's Versailles,' and is open for visits during certain months.

Bécherel is a year-round destination, but its literary spirit truly comes alive during its numerous book-related events. The Fête du Livre (Book Festival) takes place every Easter weekend, attracting enthusiasts and booksellers. A monthly book market is held on the first Sunday of each month from March to December. Other notable events include the Night of Books in August, 'Lire en Fête' in October, and 'Treasures of Bécherel' in December. Visiting during these times offers a particularly lively experience.

Bécherel is approximately 35 kilometers north-west of Rennes. The easiest way to reach the village is by car, with the drive taking about 40 minutes from Rennes. While there is no direct train, bus services are available from Rennes or Dinan. The majority of bookshops are open from Thursday to Sunday, though some may be open on other days. It's advisable to check specific opening hours if you have particular shops in mind. The Maison du Livre et du Tourisme de Bécherel can provide current information on events and opening times. For dining, options include crêperies and restaurants offering traditional Breton food. Accommodations in Bécherel include guesthouses and bed and breakfasts.