Brancion

Brancion, a preserved medieval village in Southern Burgundy, offers a journey through time, its fortified gate beckoning visitors to explore a thousand years of Burgundian existence. The village rests on a rocky outcrop between Tournus and Cluny, providing expansive views of the surrounding countryside and the Grosne valley below. The village itself is largely pedestrianized, allowing for unhurried exploration through its historic lanes and flower-filled alleyways.

This location is a significant stop on the Romanesque road, connecting important abbeys like Tournus and Cluny. Brancion has undergone extensive renovations and improvements in recent years, enhancing its appeal as a destination for those interested in history, nature, and authentic French village life. It serves as an ideal respite for travelers on the A6 motorway between Paris and Lyon, offering a timeless escape into a landscape rich with vineyards and rolling hills.

From Feudal Stronghold to Ducal Seat

Brancion's story extends to the mid-10th century, with the first mention of its castle. Initially held by the Garoux family, it later passed to the Gros family, who united the lordships of Uxelles and Brancion. During the 12th and 13th centuries, the seigneury of Brancion flourished, strategically positioned between the Saône River, Tournus, and Cluny. The Lords of Brancion, often in conflict with the monks of Cluny, asserted their influence over the region.

However, the family's fortunes shifted. Josserand de Brancion, a companion of Saint Louis, died during the Seventh Crusade at the Battle of Mansourah in 1250. Impoverished by these crusades, the Brancion family began selling their possessions. In 1259, Duke Hugues IV of Burgundy acquired the domains, transforming Brancion into a ducal castellan. The Dukes of Burgundy undertook significant construction projects between the late 13th and 15th centuries, including the impressive Beaujeu dwelling.

In 1477, with the death of Charles the Bold, most of the Duchy of Burgundy rejoined the royal domain, and Brancion became a royal castellan. The castle's distinct architecture reflects its evolution from the Carolingian era to the Wars of Religion. In 1594, royal troops besieged and sacked the castle, marking the beginning of its decline. Its restoration commenced in the 1950s by the descendants of Count Victor de Murard de Saint-Romain, who purchased the ruins in 1860. Today, a local association continues the meticulous restoration work, funded by visitors and various events.

Begin your exploration at the Château de Brancion, an imposing fortress with ruins illustrating centuries of architectural evolution. Ascend the 20-meter-high keep for a 360-degree expansive view of the Grosne valley and the surrounding Burgundy countryside. The castle grounds also feature the remains of an early 11th-century dwelling, the 12th and 13th-century seigneurial castle, and the 14th-century ducal castle with its poly-lobed bays and monumental fireplaces.

Descend into the village to discover the 16th-century covered market hall, a prominent structure with its distinctive wooden roof. Wander through the pedestrianized streets, lined with old houses, before reaching the Romanesque Église Saint-Pierre. This 12th-century church is a listed historic monument, notable for its late 13th-century wall paintings and the recumbent tomb of Josserand de Brancion. Adjacent to the church, you will find a herb garden. For those who enjoy walking, a 1.5 km path around the village leads to the 'Four de la Baume' cave, a site inhabited from prehistoric to medieval times, and offers excellent views from the Paradis promontory.

Brancion is open daily from April 1st to November 15th, from 10:00 AM to 12:30 PM and from 1:15 PM to 6:30 PM, with closing at 5:00 PM starting October 1st. The last entry is 30 minutes before closing. The village is particularly appealing in spring and summer when the alleyways are adorned with flowers. Autumn also offers a beautiful experience as the leaves change color, enhancing the scenic views of the Grosne valley. Consider visiting during specific events like the Great Medieval Festival in July or Halloween celebrations in October for a lively experience.

Brancion is primarily a pedestrianized village. Free public parking is available 300 meters from the village entrance, with disabled parking accessible within the site. The castle entrance fee is €8 for adults (including a free audio guide) and €4 for children aged 5 to 16, with free admission for children under 5. Group rates are available for parties of 10 or more. The castle offers family-friendly activities, including a 'Vouivre de Brancion' trail and costume rentals. Public toilets are located before the entrance postern. Dogs on a leash are permitted in the castle, and electric bike charging points are available. Payment methods accepted include cash, credit cards (excluding American Express), cheques, and holiday vouchers. For dining, nearby options include La Montagne de Brancion, which offers gastronomic Burgundian cuisine.