Céret

Céret, a town in southern France within the Pyrénées-Orientales department, rests in the Tech river valley, at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains. This Catalan town, with a population under 8,000, offers a blend of artistic heritage and a relaxed Mediterranean pace. Its old town features narrow streets, inviting terrace cafés, and squares shaded by centuries-old plane trees.

Known as the "cherry capital of France," Céret is celebrated for its early and abundant cherry harvests, a tradition deeply embedded in the local economy and culture. Beyond its agricultural fame, Céret holds a significant place in art history as a cradle of Cubism in the early 20th century, attracting artists like Picasso, Braque, and Matisse. This artistic legacy is proudly displayed in its Museum of Modern Art, which houses an extensive collection of works by these influential figures.

## From Ancient Routes to Artistic Hub Céret's strategic location along routes between Spain and France meant various peoples traversed the area over millennia. Hannibal's army, for instance, marched through Céret in 218 BC. During the 8th and 9th centuries, the region, including Céret, was part of the Carolingian Empire. The town was fortified throughout the Middle Ages, with two principal gateways, the Porte de France and the Porte d'Espagne, still standing today. These gates, along with remnants of the ramparts, offer a glimpse into Céret's medieval past, when a drawbridge once controlled access over a defensive ditch.

Céret's Catalan heritage is profound, dating back to the medieval period before the area was annexed to France in 1659 by the Treaty of the Pyrenees. This cultural identity is evident in the town's architecture, traditions, and even its original Catalan name, Ceret. The 14th-century Pont du Diable, with its impressive 45-meter arch, stands as a testament to medieval engineering and local folklore.

## The Cradle of Cubism At the beginning of the 20th century, Céret transformed into an artistic center, earning it the moniker "Mecca of Cubism." The Catalan sculptor Manolo Hugué, along with painter Franck Burty Haviland and composer Déodat de Séverac, were among the first artists to settle here in 1909 and 1910. Their presence soon attracted a wave of influential artists, most notably Pablo Picasso, who arrived in 1911. Picasso spent several weeks in Céret in the springs and summers of 1911, 1912, and 1913, often with Georges Braque, as they collaboratively developed Cubism. Other prominent artists like Max Jacob, Juan Gris, Auguste Herbin, Henri Matisse, Raoul Dufy, Marc Chagall, and Chaïm Soutine also spent time in Céret, contributing to its artistic character.

This artistic legacy led to the establishment of the Musée d'Art Moderne in 1950 by Pierre Brune and Frank Burty Haviland, with the personal support of Picasso and Matisse. The museum continues to be a focal point for modern and contemporary art, showcasing the deep connection between Céret and the major artists of the 20th century.

Begin your exploration at the Musée d'Art Moderne de Céret, home to an impressive collection of works by artists who found inspiration in the town, including Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, and Soutine. The museum also features contemporary exhibitions.

Stroll through the old town to discover the Fountain of the Nine Jets (Fontaine des neuf-jets), a 14th-century landmark, and the more contemporary Cubist fountain in Place Picasso. Wander the narrow streets, many cooled by running mountain streams, and admire the ochre-colored facades and Mediterranean tiled roofs.

Just outside the town center, cross the Pont du Diable (Devil's Bridge), a remarkable 14th-century stone arch bridge spanning the Tech river. Though closed to traffic, it's open for pedestrians and cyclists. Do not miss the Porte de France and Porte d'Espagne, the two surviving medieval gateways that once protected the town.

On Saturdays, immerse yourself in the lively weekly market, which combines Provençal charm with a strong Catalonian flavor, offering local produce, crafts, and a lively atmosphere.

Céret is most enjoyable from May through October, when temperatures are comfortable, ranging from 21°C to 28°C (70°F to 82°F). July is the sunniest month, with approximately 9.6 hours of sunshine per day. While there can be some rainfall during this period, it offers a good balance of sunny and rainy days for exploring. The annual Cherry Festival (Fête de la Cerise) typically takes place in late May, celebrating the town's famous fruit with music, dancing, and cherry-themed treats. The Sardana Festival in July showcases traditional Catalan dance, and summer also brings night markets featuring local crafts.

Céret is located about 35 km (22 miles) from Perpignan. The nearest airports are Perpignan in France and Girona in Spain. High-speed TGV train services run to Perpignan from major French cities and Barcelona, with local bus services connecting to Céret. If driving, Céret is a short distance from the A9 motorway (exit 43).

The town center is largely pedestrian-friendly, with cafés and shops spilling onto the streets. Public transportation within the area is available, with local bus tickets often charged at a flat rate of 1 Euro. The Museum of Modern Art is closed on Tuesdays.