Henrichemont

Henrichemont, a commune in France's Cher department, is a place where history feels both palpable and paused. Founded in 1609 by Maximilien de Béthune, Duke of Sully, the town was intended as the capital of the sovereign Principality of Boisbelle, a territory that for centuries enjoyed independence from the King of France, free from most royal taxes. Sully, a close advisor and friend to King Henri IV, dedicated this new town to the monarch, naming it "Henrici Mons," or Henri's Mount.

The town was a rare example of 17th-century "ideal cities," designed with a precise, symmetrical urban plan. However, the assassination of Henri IV in 1610 led to Sully's political downfall and the subsequent halt of the ambitious construction project. Despite its unfinished state, Henrichemont remains a compelling example of this architectural vision, with its distinctive layout and preserved historic buildings offering a window into a grand, unfulfilled dream.

Beyond its unique historical core, Henrichemont is surrounded by the natural beauty of the Berry region, with forests, ponds, and hiking trails inviting exploration. The area is also celebrated for its gastronomy, including the wines of Menetou-Salon and Sancerre, and the famous Crottin de Chavignol goat cheese.

## The Vision of Sully and Boisbelle Henrichemont's story begins with Maximilien de Béthune, the Duke of Sully, a Protestant statesman and the chief minister to King Henri IV. In 1605, Sully acquired the sovereign principality of Boisbelle, a small, independent state that had long enjoyed unique privileges, including exemption from royal taxes like the gabelle (salt tax) and military service. Boisbelle even had the right to mint its own currency and enact its own laws.

Sully, a man of immense influence and a trusted companion of Henri IV, envisioned a new capital for his principality. Towards the end of 1608, he conceived the plan for Henrichemont, an ideal city designed with modern urban planning and architectural principles, much like the new cities of Italy. The town's layout was entrusted to Claude Chastillon, the king's topographer, who also designed Paris's Place des Vosges. Salomon de Brosse, the architect behind the Luxembourg Palace in Paris, was responsible for the design of the houses and town gates. The construction market was set in December 1608, and the first stone was laid on April 13, 1609, with King Henri IV himself present. The town was to be a square, star-shaped plan, with eight main streets radiating from a central square, and was intended to include a church, a Protestant temple, a college, a market hall, and sixteen residential buildings, all enclosed by moats and ramparts.

## An Unfinished Masterpiece The ambitious project, however, faced an abrupt halt. The assassination of King Henri IV in 1610 was a devastating blow to Sully, leading to his disgrace and the loss of the king's crucial moral and financial support. Consequently, Henrichemont was never fully completed according to its original grand design. Despite this, the town stands as a rare and significant example of 17th-century "new towns," characterized by their symmetry, defensive features, and architectural aesthetic.

Over the centuries, Henrichemont's population peaked in 1891 with 3,763 inhabitants and currently stands at 1,721 as of 2023. The town's architectural heritage includes two buildings protected as historical monuments: the Maison de Sully, a surviving example of the original pavilions, and the pottery workshops and kilns of La Borne, partially listed in 1996.

The heart of Henrichemont is its central square, Place Henri IV, where the original compass-rose layout of the town is still evident in the radiating streets. Here, you can observe the remaining historic houses that hint at the town's intended grandeur. The Maison de Sully, also known as the Fiscal Prosecutor's House, is a particularly notable example, offering a glimpse into the architectural style planned for the entire town.

A short drive from Henrichemont is the village of La Borne, known for its centuries-old tradition of pottery. This artistic hub is home to numerous workshops where you can observe ceramic artists at work, as well as the Contemporary Ceramics Center, which features diverse exhibitions. The Pottery Museum in La Borne also showcases a collection of ceramics from the 18th to 20th centuries, including works by Vassil Ivanoff and Marie Talbot.

For those interested in local produce, Henrichemont hosts a weekly market on Wednesday mornings on Place Henri IV and Place de la Mairie. Nearby towns also offer attractions, such as the medieval city of Bourges with its UNESCO-listed Saint-Étienne Cathedral and the Palais Jacques-Cœur, both about 30 minutes away. The picturesque village of Sancerre, famous for its wines, is also within easy reach.

Henrichemont experiences a temperate climate, making it pleasant to visit throughout the year. Spring, from March to May, is particularly appealing with mild weather and fewer crowds. Autumn, from September to November, also offers agreeable weather and fall colors in the surrounding countryside, especially in the vineyards. Summer, particularly July and August, brings lively festivals and longer opening hours for attractions, though it can be quite warm. Winter travel is generally calmer, with fewer tourists, though some smaller businesses may have shorter hours.

Henrichemont is a pedestrian-friendly town, making it easy to explore its historic streets on foot. For those who prefer cycling, bicycle rentals are available at various locations. To delve deeper into the town's history, guided tours can be arranged by contacting the Henrichemont town hall. A "Laissez-vous guider…" booklet is also available for purchase at the Mairie for self-guided exploration.

When visiting, it's always a good idea to familiarize yourself with local customs; a simple "Bonjour" or "Bonsoir" goes a long way. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended for exploring the town and its surrounding natural areas. The local tourist information office in La Borne can provide further details on attractions, activities, and ceramic workshops. Henrichemont has a weekly market on Wednesday mornings, offering local products and a chance to experience the local culture.