Las Terrazas

Las Terrazas, a singular eco-community and nature reserve, rests within the Sierra del Rosario mountains in Artemisa Province, just an hour's drive west of Havana. This area, designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1985, stands as a testament to a revolutionary vision that transformed a deforested landscape into a flourishing example of sustainable living.

The community, home to about 1,000 residents, was established in the late 1960s as part of a massive reforestation and rural development project. What was once land scarred by intensive coffee cultivation and logging is now a verdant, green expanse with terraced hillsides that gave the area its name. Las Terrazas offers a quiet escape, inviting visitors to connect with nature and experience a different facet of Cuban life.

Beyond its ecological significance, Las Terrazas is a living museum of sustainable development, where the local population actively participates in preserving their environment while fostering a creative cultural scene. It's a place where art, nature, and community intertwine, offering a blend of outdoor adventure, historical exploration, and genuine interaction with the local people.

From Deforestation to Reforestation

The history of Las Terrazas is a compelling narrative of environmental degradation and subsequent restoration. In the 19th century, French settlers fleeing the Haitian Revolution introduced coffee cultivation to Cuba, leading to extensive deforestation in the Sierra del Rosario region. By the mid-20th century, the area was largely denuded, suffering from severe erosion and poverty among its inhabitants, who often resorted to charcoal production, further exacerbating the deforestation.

In 1968, Fidel Castro's government initiated a "Green Revolution" project with the ambitious goal of reforesting the area and improving the living conditions of the rural population. Osmany Cienfuegos, an architect and brother of revolutionary hero Camilo Cienfuegos, spearheaded the design and construction of over 1,360 kilometers of terraces to combat erosion and facilitate the planting of millions of trees, including cedar, mahogany, and various fruit trees. This monumental effort, which continued until 1978, saw the planting of approximately 7 million trees and the establishment of the Las Terrazas community, complete with homes, schools, and roads.

The Birth of an Eco-Community

The community of Las Terrazas was officially founded in 1971, conceived as a model village where residents could live in harmony with nature. In 1985, the Sierra del Rosario was recognized by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve, a testament to the success of the reforestation project and the sustainable practices implemented in Las Terrazas. The collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, however, plunged Cuba into an economic crisis known as the "Special Period." To ensure the community's survival, Las Terrazas transitioned into an eco-tourism resort, opening its doors to the public in 1994. This shift led to the development of facilities like the Hotel Moka and various activities, transforming tourism into the main source of livelihood for many residents, while maintaining a strong focus on environmental and social sustainability.

Today, Las Terrazas is considered Cuba's first eco-museum and continues to be a national and international benchmark for sustainable rural development. The community, with a population of around 1,200, is deeply invested in its unique environment, balancing economic development with ecological preservation and a rich cultural life, including local artists' workshops and community projects.

Las Terrazas offers a variety of experiences that blend nature, history, and culture. Explore the remnants of its coffee-producing past by visiting the ruins of old French coffee plantations, such as Cafetal Buenavista, the oldest in Cuba, where you can see grinding stones and slave quarters. For an adrenaline rush, try Cuba's first canopy circuit, a series of zip lines stretching 1600 meters that offer unique views over the treetops.

The verdant natural environment is ideal for hiking and birdwatching, with numerous trails like San Claudio and El Contento, and a chance to spot over 117 bird species, including the national bird, the tocororo. Cool off in the clear waters of the San Juan River, which features natural pools perfect for swimming. Do not miss the opportunity to visit the Casa-Museo Polo Montañez, the former home of the beloved Cuban singer and composer. Engage with the local artistic community by visiting their workshops and studios, where you can find crafts made from recycled paper, wood, and ceramics. You can also rent rowboats and water bikes on Lago San Juan for a different perspective of the town.

The best time to visit Las Terrazas is during the dry season, which runs from December to May. During these months, you can expect warm, sunny days with moderate temperatures and lower humidity, creating ideal conditions for outdoor activities like hiking, zip-lining, and birdwatching. The rainy season, from June to November, brings higher humidity and more frequent rainfall, with a risk of hurricanes between August and October. While the forested hills can offer some respite from June's heat, the dry season generally provides a more comfortable and enjoyable experience for exploring the reserve.

Las Terrazas is located approximately 75 kilometers west of Havana in the province of Artemisa, making it a feasible day trip from the capital. While on the way to Viñales, the Viazul Bus does stop here, private transfers or pre-booked excursions are also available. There is a toll booth at the entrance to the reserve, with a fee per person for access. Accommodation options include the ecological Hotel Moka, which offers amenities like a swimming pool and guided tours, or more authentic Cuban experiences in local casas particulares (private homes) where you can interact directly with hosts and enjoy homemade food. The community also has restaurants serving traditional Cuban cuisine, including one at the former owner's home of Cafetal Buenavista. An Ecological Research Center is on-site, providing specialized guides for exploring the protected area.