Montreuil-sur-Mer

Montreuil-sur-Mer, despite its name, is no longer on the sea; the river Canche having silted up centuries ago, leaving the town about nine miles inland. Yet, this small, picturesque town in the Pas-de-Calais department of northern France retains the character and strategic significance of its past as a vital port. Encircled by well-preserved medieval ramparts, it offers expansive views of the surrounding countryside and the Canche valley.

Often called the 'Carcassonne of the North' due to its imposing fortifications, Montreuil-sur-Mer is a place where history, literature, and gastronomy intertwine. Its stone-paved lanes, historic buildings, and lively cultural scene invite exploration, revealing layers of a deep heritage. From its medieval origins to its role as a setting in Victor Hugo's Les Misérables and as a British Army headquarters during World War I, Montreuil-sur-Mer offers a captivating journey through time.

From Royal Port to Literary Setting

Montreuil-sur-Mer's history stretches back to the early medieval period, with its name deriving from the Latin 'monasteriolum,' meaning 'small monastery.' From 987 to 1204, it was the only port of the royal domain, a crucial maritime opening that led to its early fortification. The town, built on a rocky headland above the Canche estuary, saw its first wooden fort constructed by the Count of Ponthieu in the 9th century. By the 13th century, King Philip Augustus had built a powerful royal castle and reinforced the urban walls with semi-circular towers, elements of which are still visible within the Citadel today.

The town endured significant turmoil, including destruction by the armies of Charles V in 1537 after being ravaged during the Hundred Years' War. This led to the construction of impressive brickwork ramparts and a bastioned citadel under Francis I and Charles IX, incorporating the latest defensive innovations. Vauban, the renowned military engineer, later worked on improving the flood defenses and constructing a covered walkway around the moats in the late 17th century.

Montreuil-sur-Mer gained literary recognition as the setting for the first part of Victor Hugo's Les Misérables. Hugo visited in 1837, and his vivid memories of the town inspired him to make it the home of Jean Valjean, who becomes mayor under the alias Monsieur Madeleine. The town's connection to the novel is celebrated annually with a sound and light show. Beyond literature, Montreuil-sur-Mer served as the headquarters of the British Army in France during World War I from March 1916 to April 1919, with General Douglas Haig based there. The town's fortifications were declassified in 1867, and the citadel was garrisoned until 1929.

Begin your exploration with a walk along the well-preserved Ramparts, which encircle the upper town for about three kilometers, offering expansive views of the Canche valley and surrounding countryside. Within these walls stands the Citadel of Montreuil-sur-Mer, a 16th-century fortress built on the remains of a medieval royal castle. The Citadel, sometimes called 'the Carcassonne of the North,' houses the Musée Roger Rodière, featuring local archaeological finds and sacred art. It is also a sanctuary for bats and a Natura 2000 area.

The Place du Général de Gaulle is the town's main square, lined with cafes and shops, and home to the 18th-century Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall). Here, you'll also find a bronze statue of General Douglas Haig, British Commander-in-Chief during World War I. Explore the narrow, stone-paved lanes, such as Rue du Clape-en-Bas with its old houses, and the steep Cavée Saint-Firmin. The Abbey Church of Saint-Saulve, with its Gothic architecture and stained glass, is a significant landmark, rebuilt after being burned in 1537. Just outside town, the Chartreuse de Neuville, a monumental 14th-century Charterhouse, offers guided tours of its cloisters and gardens.

The most pleasant time to visit Montreuil-sur-Mer is during the months of May, June, July, August, and September. During this period, temperatures are comfortable, ranging from approximately 11°C to 23°C (53°F to 73°F). July and August are the warmest months, with average highs around 21-23°C (70-73°F). While rainfall is moderate throughout the year, the summer months offer a good balance of sunny and rainy days. For those interested in the 'Les Misérables' sound and light show, it takes place annually in the summer.

Montreuil-sur-Mer is accessible by train from Paris, with a journey taking approximately two and a half hours. The town is also well-connected by road, making it convenient for those traveling by car. Accommodation options include appealing bed and breakfasts and boutique hotels, many housed in historic buildings. For a distinctive stay, consider Maison 76, recognized as one of France's best B&Bs. The town is known as a 'Destination Gastronomique,' with numerous restaurants ranging from cozy cafes to Michelin-starred establishments like La Grenouillère. Do not miss the local cheeses at Fromagerie Caseus or the specialty bread at Au Pétrin Grémont. The local tourist office can provide further information and assistance.