Pietermaritzburg

Pietermaritzburg, often known as 'Maritzburg' or 'PMB,' serves as the capital and second-largest city in South Africa's KwaZulu-Natal province. This is a city where the past intertwines with the present, offering a blend of Victorian architecture, a rich culture, and natural beauty. Inland from Durban, Pietermaritzburg acts as a gateway to the scenic Midlands Meander and the Drakensberg Mountains.

Known as the 'City of Flowers' for its lush gardens and parks, Pietermaritzburg presents a comfortable balance of urban amenities and peaceful green spaces. The city's atmosphere is shaped by a deep mix of Zulu, Indian, Boer, and British cultures, reflected in its cuisine, events, and historical landmarks. Whether exploring its significant historical sites or enjoying its natural surroundings, Pietermaritzburg provides a memorable South African experience.

From Zulu Kingdom to Colonial Capital

The area that is now Pietermaritzburg was originally known as uMgungundlovu by the Zulu people, a name thought to signify the site of a Zulu king's victory. The city's formal establishment dates back to 1838 by the Voortrekkers, a group of Dutch-speaking settlers. There are two interpretations regarding the origin of the city's name: one suggests it was named after two Voortrekker leaders, Piet Retief and Gerrit Maritz, while another posits it was initially named 'Pieter Mauritz' Burg' after Piet Retief's full name. Neither Retief nor Maritz ever reached the city; Retief was killed by Zulu King Dingane, and Maritz died of illness elsewhere.

Following the defeat of Dingane at the Battle of Blood River, the Voortrekkers established Pietermaritzburg as the capital of the short-lived Boer republic of Natalia. However, British forces took control of the city in 1843, transforming it into a British military garrison and the administrative seat of the Natal Colony. This period saw an influx of German and British immigrants, contributing to the city's growth and the development of its distinctive Victorian and Edwardian architectural style, much of which remains preserved today. During apartheid, Pietermaritzburg, like many South African cities, experienced forced segregation, with different racial groups moved to specific suburbs.

In 1910, with the formation of the Union of South Africa, Natal became a province, and Pietermaritzburg served as one of its capitals. Post-1994, after South Africa's first democratic elections, Pietermaritzburg shared its capital status with Ulundi for a time, before becoming the legislative capital of KwaZulu-Natal. The city's history is also marked by significant events, such as Mahatma Gandhi's removal from a 'whites-only' train compartment at Pietermaritzburg railway station in 1893, an incident that profoundly influenced his philosophy of nonviolent resistance.

Pietermaritzburg offers a range of attractions that highlight its history, culture, and natural environment. The Pietermaritzburg City Hall is a prominent landmark, recognized as the largest red-brick building in the Southern Hemisphere. Nearby, the Tatham Art Gallery, housed in the former Supreme Court building, displays collections of South African, British, and French art.

For those interested in natural history and local culture, the KwaZulu-Natal Museum provides extensive collections. The KwaZulu-Natal National Botanical Garden is a calm space featuring diverse flora, including an impressive avenue of plane trees planted in 1908. Another green space is Alexandra Park, where visitors can enjoy roses, azaleas, and bougainvillea. Butterflies for Africa offers an opportunity to walk through a house with hundreds of indigenous and exotic butterflies.

History enthusiasts can follow one of the city's Town Trails tours, self-guided walks that cover over 50 historic sites. A visit to the Pietermaritzburg railway station is significant for its connection to Mahatma Gandhi's early activism. Beyond the city center, World's View offers sweeping vistas of Pietermaritzburg. The city also serves as a base for exploring the Midlands Meander, a scenic route known for arts, crafts, and local produce, and is a gateway to the Drakensberg Mountains for those seeking more extensive natural exploration.

Pietermaritzburg experiences a dry-winter humid subtropical climate. Summers (December to February) are warm to hot with frequent rainfall, while winters (June to August) are dry with significant diurnal temperature variations. The best times to visit for pleasant weather and outdoor activities are during spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May). During these months, temperatures are mild, and rainfall is minimal, making it ideal for exploring the city and its surrounding natural attractions.

Pietermaritzburg is accessible via the N3 highway, which connects it to Durban (approximately 90 km away) and the Gauteng province. The city also has an airport with connections to other cities. For getting around, car rental is recommended for flexibility. Metered taxis are available but must be called in advance, as they do not solicit fares on the street. Minibus taxis are a common and affordable mode of transport for many locals.

Accommodation options in Pietermaritzburg range from budget-friendly guesthouses to mid-range hotels and luxury lodges. The city is generally safe for tourists, but it is advisable to be aware of your surroundings, particularly at night, and to secure your belongings. Local cuisine offers a mix of traditional Zulu dishes, Indian cuisine, and typical South African fare, with bunny chow being a popular local dish to try.