Pontarlier

Pontarlier, a town in eastern France near the Swiss border, sits at an elevation of 837 meters, making it one of the highest towns in France. Located in the Doubs department of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, it serves as a natural passage between France and Switzerland, a geographical advantage that has shaped its history for centuries. The town is known for its industrial and economic dynamism, acting as the economic and touristic capital of the Haut-Doubs region.

Beyond its strategic location, Pontarlier is deeply associated with absinthe, having been recognized as its capital. While the production of this spirit faced a ban for many years, its revival has reconnected Pontarlier with its storied past. Today, the town offers a blend of historical sites, cultural experiences, and access to the natural landscapes of the Jura Mountains, including forests, lakes, and various outdoor activities.

From Roman Transit to Absinthe Capital

Pontarlier's origins trace back to Neolithic times, and it was known as Ariolica during the Roman era, serving as a crucial transit point between Gaul and Italy. In the Middle Ages, it flourished as a trading hub on the route connecting the Mediterranean and the North Sea. The town's strategic position, however, also made it vulnerable to conflicts. It endured significant turmoil during the Thirty Years' War, notably being besieged and largely destroyed in 1639.

Pontarlier was definitively incorporated into France in 1678 by the Treaty of Nijmegen, a moment commemorated by the construction of the Porte Saint-Pierre, an arch similar in design to Paris's Porte Saint-Martin. The 17th and 18th centuries saw the town suffer from multiple destructive fires, with half the city being destroyed in 1736 alone. It was subsequently rebuilt according to the plans of engineer Querret.

The Rise and Fall of the Green Fairy

The 19th century marked a pivotal period for Pontarlier, as it became known as France's 'absinthe capital'. Henri-Louis Pernod established the Pernod Fils distillery in 1805, capitalizing on lower tax rates in France and expanding production from an initial 400 liters daily. The popularity of absinthe surged, particularly after 1830 and throughout the 19th century, partly due to soldiers bringing a taste for it back from the Franco-Algerian War where it was used for water purification and as an antiseptic. By the early 20th century, Pontarlier had around twenty distilleries employing nearly 3,000 people, roughly 38% of its population. The period between 5 and 7 p.m. became known as 'l'Heure Verte' (the Green Hour), a time when people gathered to enjoy the drink.

This golden age abruptly ended with the French ban on absinthe in 1915, due to concerns about its neurological toxicity. Most distilleries closed, with some diversifying into other aniseed-based aperitifs like 'Pontarlier Anise' and fir liqueurs to survive. The ban was partially lifted in the 1990s, and absinthe production was reauthorized in 2011, leading to a revival of this historic industry in Pontarlier.

Begin your exploration at the Porte Saint-Pierre, an 18th-century triumphal arch that now serves as a belfry and a prominent entrance to the town, built to commemorate France's acquisition of the territory. Visit the Pontarlier Museum, housed in a 15th-century manor, to delve into the region's history, including archaeology, local art, and a significant collection dedicated to the history of absinthe. The museum also features exhibitions related to the Château de Joux and its military history.

Explore religious sites such as the Annunciade Chapel and the Chapel of Hope, and the Church of Saint-Bénigne, known for its modern stained-glass windows and historic furnishings, including a 15th-century polychrome wooden statue of the Virgin and Child. The Town Hall, built between 1832 and 1838, and the Bernard Blier Theatre, opened in 1900, are also noteworthy architectural points in the town center.

Just 5 kilometers away, the Château de Joux is an imposing clifftop fortress with a thousand-year history, showcasing the evolution of fortifications from the Middle Ages to the present. It offers far-reaching views and houses a museum of ancient armaments, open during the summer. For a taste of local heritage, visit the Distillerie Guy or Les Fils d'Emile Pernot Distillery to learn about absinthe production and enjoy tastings.

The surrounding natural environment provides ample opportunities for outdoor activities. Lake Saint-Point, 10 km away, is ideal for swimming, fishing, sailing, and canoeing. Numerous hiking and mountain biking trails start from Pontarlier, and in winter, the Gounefay area offers Nordic ski trails and a small alpine resort.

The most pleasant time to visit Pontarlier for warm-weather activities is from early July to late August, when average daily high temperatures range from 23°C to 24°C (73°F to 75°F). July is typically the sunniest month, with an average of 8.6 hours of daily sunshine. While May is the wettest month, with around 166 mm of precipitation, rainfall remains relatively consistent throughout the year. For winter sports enthusiasts, December to March offers snowy conditions in the Jura Mountains. The annual Absinthiades festival, celebrating the 'green fairy' with tastings and distillery tours, usually takes place in early October.

Pontarlier is accessible by car via several national and departmental roads, including the N57, D47, D437, D67B, and D72. The town has a railway station, Pontarlier, which connects to lines between France and Switzerland. The station offers an waiting hall and nearby local food options. For local travel, Pontarlier operates a public transport network called TCP (Transports en Commun de Pontarlier), which includes a regular bus service, on-demand transport, and school services. Tickets can be purchased directly from bus drivers for single journeys, and 10-journey passes are available at various TCP relays. Children under 4 travel for free.

The nearest airports are Geneva Airport (approximately 115 km south) and EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (approximately 183 km northeast). The Pontarlier Tourist Office, located at 14bis, rue de la Gare, can provide further information and assistance.