The main church in Remedios held a secret beneath its ornate altars for centuries.
Guillaume Baviere from Uppsala, Sweden / CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia CommonsRemedios
Self-guided audio walking tour of Remedios — GPS route, offline playback, story-driven narration in 32 languages.
“Where colonial echoes meet Cuban spirit, a town of enduring charm.”
Remedios, as no one tells it.
Not the postcards. The stories even locals don't know — whispered in your ear, right where they happened.
Remedios stands alone in Cuba for a particular architectural feature on its central square.
The origins of Remedios' celebrated Christmas festival are tied to an unusual clerical decree.
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BuyThe story of Remedios
San Juan de los Remedios, often simply called Remedios, is a colonial town in Cuba's Villa Clara province, recognized as one of the country's earliest Spanish settlements. Founded between 1513 and 1524, its historical center was declared a National Monument in 1980, preserving its colorful streets, 18th and 19th-century buildings, and a tranquil atmosphere.
Smaller and less crowded than cities like Havana or Trinidad, Remedios offers an authentic glimpse into Cuban life. It is particularly known as the "Cradle of the Parrandas," one of the Caribbean's largest and oldest traditional festivals, which transforms the town with music, fireworks, and parades every December. Beyond the festival, Remedios serves as a cultural stop for travelers heading to the pristine beaches of Cayo Santa María, connected to the mainland by a 48-kilometer causeway.
## Early Settlement and Corsair Raids Remedios was founded between 1513 and 1524 by Spanish nobleman Vasco Porcallo de Figueroa, making it one of the earliest Spanish settlements in Cuba. Originally, it was known by several names, including Santa Cruz de la Sabana. A local legend suggests that Vasco Porcallo de Figueroa initially kept the town's existence a secret from the King of Spain to avoid paying taxes.
Its proximity to the northern coast made Remedios an easy target for corsair attacks throughout the 16th century. These frequent raids twice pushed the population to move further inland in search of a more secure location. Toward the end of the 17th century, a group of wealthy citizens even attempted to relocate Remedios entirely, but most residents resisted. Those who wished to move eventually founded Santa Clara, which grew to become the provincial capital, leaving Remedios to retain its quieter, unspoiled character.
## Growth and National Recognition Despite the early challenges, Remedios steadily grew, with its economy initially relying on farming and cattle ranching, supplying beef to Spanish colonies in Florida. The sugar cane industry later became a significant part of its prosperity in the mid-19th century. In 1980, Remedios' historical urban center was declared a National Monument, recognizing its well-preserved colonial architecture and cultural significance.
## The Parrandas Tradition Remedios is most famously known as the "Cradle of the Parrandas," a Christmas festival. This tradition dates back to the 19th century, when a local priest encouraged children to make noise to draw parishioners to midnight mass. Over time, this evolved into a spirited competition between two rival neighborhoods, El Carmen (the hawk) and El Salvador (the rooster), who create elaborate floats, costumes, lanterns, and fireworks for the month-long celebration, culminating on Christmas Eve.
Remedios is best explored on foot, with most attractions gathered around its main square, Plaza Martí. This lively square is unique in Cuba for featuring two churches: the Iglesia Mayor de San Juan Bautista and the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Buen Viaje. The Iglesia Mayor, dating back to 1550, is particularly notable for its richly decorated golden altar, intricate woodwork, and a unique statue of a pregnant Virgin.
Beyond the churches, Plaza Martí is surrounded by colorful colonial buildings, shaded benches, and cafes, offering a perfect spot for observing daily life. Nearby, Libertad Park features a surprising Statue of Liberty rising from an obelisk, symbolizing the community's values of freedom.
For those interested in local culture, the Museo de las Parrandas Remedianas provides insight into the town's Christmas festival, showcasing photos and memorabilia. The Museo Municipal Francisco Javier Balmaseda is one of Cuba's oldest museums, offering a broader look at the city's history. Additionally, the Teatro Rubén Martínez Villena, a colonial-style theater, and the Museo de Música Alejandro García Caturla, dedicated to the Cuban composer, are worth a visit.
The best time to visit Remedios is during the dry season, from November to April, when the weather is warm and sunny. December is a highlight due to the world-renowned Parrandas de Remedios festival, a celebration leading up to Christmas Eve. While this is peak season, booking accommodations in advance is advisable. For beach enthusiasts, combining a trip with Cayo Santa María from December to March offers ideal sea conditions. The rainy season, from May to October, brings higher humidity and occasional tropical showers, with a risk of hurricanes between August and October.
Remedios is a small, walkable town, making it easy to explore most attractions on foot. For venturing slightly outside the center, bici-taxis and horse-drawn carriages offer charming and affordable local transport. For longer distances, such as to nearby Caibarién or the El Pedraplén causeway leading to Cayo Santa María, regular taxis are available. Viazul buses also connect Remedios to other major Cuban cities like Havana and Santa Clara.
While generally considered safe, it's always wise to practice normal street sense. The nearest airport is Abel Santamaría Airport (SNU) in Santa Clara, approximately 45 km away. Many resorts in Cayo Santa María offer private transfers that can include a stop in Remedios.
- What is Remedios most famous for?
- Remedios is most famous for its annual Christmas festival, the Parrandas de Remedios, a lively competition between two neighborhoods featuring elaborate floats, costumes, music, and fireworks.
- Are there two churches on the main square in Remedios?
- Yes, Remedios is unique in Cuba for having two churches on its main square, Plaza Martí: the Iglesia Mayor de San Juan Bautista and the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Buen Viaje.
- When is the best time to visit Remedios?
- The best time to visit Remedios is during the dry season, from November to April, when the weather is warm and sunny. December is particularly popular due to the Parrandas festival.
- How can I get around in Remedios?
- Remedios is a small town best explored on foot. Bici-taxis and horse-drawn carriages are available for local transport, and regular taxis can be used for longer distances.
- Is Remedios a good base for exploring other areas?
- Yes, Remedios is a convenient cultural stop for travelers heading to the beaches of Cayo Santa María via the El Pedraplén causeway. It can also serve as a base for exploring Santa Clara and Caibarién.
- What is the history of the gold altars in the Iglesia Mayor?
- The gold-plated altars in the Iglesia Mayor de San Juan Bautista were painted white for centuries to protect them from corsair raids and were only rediscovered and restored in the 1940s and 50s.