Sangkhlaburi

Sangkhlaburi, a town in Thailand's westernmost province of Kanchanaburi, offers a singular blend of cultures and a serene natural setting. Situated near the Myanmar border and embraced by the Khao Laem National Park, it is a place where Thai, Mon, Burmese, and Karen communities live side-by-side, each contributing to the town's distinct character. The Songkalia River bisects the town, flowing into the expansive Khao Laem Lake, creating a landscape that shifts dramatically with the seasons.

Often described as Thailand's 'wild west,' Sangkhlaburi moves at a slower pace, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in local traditions rather than a bustling tourist scene. Its remote location, accessed by a scenic and winding road, ensures a journey that feels like an adventure in itself. From the enduring wooden Mon Bridge to the haunting beauty of a submerged temple, Sangkhlaburi offers a glimpse into a Thailand that feels both authentic and untouched.

A Crossroads of Cultures and Conflict

Sangkhlaburi's history is deeply intertwined with its strategic location at the Three Pagodas Pass, a natural gateway through the Tenasserim Hills connecting Thailand and Myanmar. This pass has served as a crucial land route for centuries, believed to be the entry point for Buddhist teachings from India into Thailand as early as the 3rd century.

Throughout the Ayutthaya period (14th–18th centuries), the Three Pagodas Pass became a primary invasion route for Burmese armies into Siam, and at times, for Siamese forces against them. The first recorded Burmese invasion through the pass occurred in 1548. The three small pagodas that lend the pass its name were formalized in 1929 by the then-ruler of Sangkhlaburi, Phra Sri Suwan Khiri, building upon ancient stone piles used by travelers for good luck.

More recently, during World War II, the pass gained grim notoriety as part of the route for the infamous Death Railway, constructed by the Japanese using Allied prisoners of war and Asian forced laborers. A memorial at the pass stands as a somber reminder of the thousands who perished during this brutal undertaking.

The modern landscape of Sangkhlaburi was dramatically reshaped in 1984 with the construction of the Vajiralongkorn Dam, which created the expansive Khao Laem Lake. This project led to the inundation of the original town, including several temples, now known as the 'Sunken Temple' or 'Underwater Town.' The creation of the reservoir also necessitated the construction of the Mon Bridge in 1986, a vital link connecting the Thai and Mon communities separated by the new body of water. Led by the revered Mon monk Luang Por Uttama, the bridge was a collaborative effort between Mon and Thai villagers, symbolizing their enduring unity and resilience, particularly after its community-led reconstruction following flood damage in 2013.

Sangkhlaburi's attractions are deeply tied to its unique geography and multicultural identity. The Mon Bridge, or Uttamanusorn Bridge, is Thailand's longest wooden bridge, stretching 850 meters across the Songkalia River. It serves as a bustling hub for local life, especially at sunrise when monks collect alms and locals begin their day.

An excursion by boat on Khao Laem Lake is essential to visit the Sunken Temple (Wat Saam Prasob). During the dry season (March-May), the temple ruins emerge from the water, allowing visitors to walk among them. In the wet season, you can paddle a canoe through its windows, an eerie and singular experience. Nearby, the Mon Village of Wang Kha offers a glimpse into traditional Mon culture, with its bamboo houses and women weaving sarongs.

Holding court on a hill overlooking the lake is Wat Wang Wiwekaram, a significant Mon temple founded by Luang Por Uttama, offering sweeping views. Further afield, approximately 20 kilometers north, lies the Three Pagodas Pass, marking the border with Myanmar. Here, three small pagodas stand as a historical landmark, and a border market offers Burmese goods. Depending on border regulations, a brief day trip into Myanmar's Payathonzu town might be possible.

The optimal time to visit Sangkhlaburi is during the dry season, from November to February. In these months, the weather is most comfortable, with less rainfall and moderate temperatures, making it ideal for exploring on foot and enjoying outdoor activities. January and February offer particularly pleasant conditions, with clear skies and cooler mornings. The water levels in Khao Laem Lake are also lower in the dry season, providing the best visibility for the submerged temple.

Avoid the hot season (April to June) when temperatures can be uncomfortably high, and the peak of the wet season (July and October), which brings heavy rainfall.

Sangkhlaburi is a remote town, and the journey there forms part of the adventure. The most common way to arrive is by bus or minivan from Kanchanaburi, a trip that takes approximately 4-5 hours. Direct buses from Bangkok's Mo Chit station are also available, taking 5-8 hours. Once in Sangkhlaburi, the town is walkable, but renting a motorbike (around 150-200 THB per day from guesthouses like P. Guest House) is recommended for exploring surrounding attractions like the Three Pagodas Pass and waterfalls.

Accommodation options range from budget guesthouses to riverside resorts, with many offering views of Khao Laem Lake. Longtail boats for visiting the sunken temple can be hired at the pier, typically costing 200-300 THB for a one-hour trip. While Sangkhlaburi is generally safe, it is always wise to carry identification, especially near the border areas.