Beauvais

Beauvais, a city in the Hauts-de-France region, lies approximately 75 kilometers north of Paris. Known for its ambitious Gothic cathedral, the city offers a blend of historical depth and a relaxed pace. Beauvais is a place where grand architectural endeavors stand alongside everyday French life, inviting visitors to explore its unique character.

The city's history stretches back to Roman times, when it was known as Caesaromagus, and it flourished in the Middle Ages as a center of ecclesiastical power and fine craftsmanship. While it may not draw the same crowds as Paris, Beauvais provides an authentic experience of northern France, complete with inviting cafés, half-timbered houses, and a charming atmosphere.

From Roman Outpost to Gothic Ambition

Beauvais's origins trace back to the Gallo-Roman period, when it was known as Caesaromagus, the capital of the Belgic tribe, the Bellovaci. After being destroyed by Barbarians, the city was reborn in the Middle Ages. By the 9th century, it had become a county, which later passed to the bishops of Beauvais around 1013, elevating them to peers of France from the 12th century. This period saw Beauvais gain economic prosperity, particularly in the textile industry, with its renowned cloth exported widely.

The 13th century marked the beginning of Beauvais's most ambitious undertaking: the construction of the Saint-Pierre Cathedral. Initiated in 1225 under Bishop Milon de Nanteuil, the goal was to create the tallest church in Christendom, surpassing even the grand cathedrals of Amiens and Notre-Dame de Paris. The choir, completed in 1272, reached an unprecedented height of 48 meters, making it the highest Gothic choir in the world.

However, this architectural daring came with significant challenges. In 1284, parts of the recently completed choir vaulting collapsed, a setback that temporarily halted Gothic construction. Construction resumed, with the transept built between 1500 and 1548. An even more ambitious spire, reaching 153 meters, was completed in 1569, briefly making the cathedral the tallest structure in the world. Tragically, this spire collapsed in 1573, destroying parts of the transept and consuming funds that were intended for the nave. Consequently, the nave was never fully built, leaving the cathedral in its unique, incomplete state.

Beauvais suffered extensive damage during both World War I and World War II, with much of the older city destroyed by bombing in June 1940. Despite this, the cathedral, though damaged, largely survived. The city's post-war reconstruction in the 1960s helped it regain its vitality.

The Saint-Pierre Cathedral is Beauvais's most striking feature. Its 13th-century Gothic choir, soaring to 48 meters, holds the record for the tallest in history. Inside, admire the intricate 19th-century astronomical clock, a masterpiece with 90,000 components and 68 animated figures. The cathedral also houses exceptional stained-glass windows from the 13th, 14th, and 16th centuries.

Adjacent to the cathedral, the MUDO - Musée départemental de l'Oise is housed in a former episcopal palace, built on Gallo-Roman ramparts. Its collections span from medieval sculptures to Art Nouveau furniture and local pottery. The Galerie Nationale de la Tapisserie celebrates Beauvais's long-standing reputation for fine tapestry production, showcasing the evolution of the craft and the pivotal role of the Manufacture Nationale de Beauvais.

For a glimpse into medieval life, visit the Maladrerie Saint-Lazare, a remarkably preserved 12th and 13th-century hospital complex that now serves as a cultural center. The Plan d'eau du Canada offers green spaces and recreational opportunities. You can also explore the poetic garden of painter André Van Beek in nearby Saint-Paul, a "little Giverny" with dahlias, hydrangeas, and water lilies.

Beauvais is pleasant year-round, but the best times to visit for mild weather and blooming parks are spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). Summer brings festivals and outdoor events, including the Jeanne Hachette Festival in June, which transforms the city into a medieval village with processions and markets. Winter is quieter but charming, especially when Christmas lights illuminate the cathedral and central square.

Beauvais is well-connected by road and rail. From Paris Gare du Nord, regional trains run regularly, taking just over an hour. By car, Beauvais is approximately 75 km north of Paris via the A16 motorway. Paris-Beauvais–Tillé Airport (BVA) serves budget airlines and is about a 15-minute taxi or shuttle bus ride into the city center. Shuttle buses also connect the airport to Paris Porte Maillot.

Public transport within Beauvais is provided by the Corolis bus network, with 25 regular lines serving the city and its metropolitan area. A shuttle service also operates between the city center and the airport. For accommodation, options range from major hotel chains to independent hotels in the city center, as well as Airbnb rentals and guesthouses in the Beauvaisis region.