Castelmola

Dramatically situated above Taormina, Castelmola is a captivating village that offers wide-ranging views stretching across the Ionian Sea, the bay of Giardini Naxos, and the formidable Mount Etna. Recognized as one of Italy's 'Most Beautiful Villages,' it provides a serene escape from the lively crowds of its more famous neighbor. With its medieval layout, narrow alleys, and appealing piazzas, Castelmola invites visitors to wander and discover its unique character.

Beyond its expansive views, Castelmola is a place where history, folklore, and local traditions intertwine. From ancient Greek origins to Norman fortifications, the village holds layers of stories within its stone walls. It's a destination where you can savor local delicacies, sip on a distinctive almond wine, and immerse yourself in an authentic Sicilian experience that feels both timeless and intimately welcoming.

## Ancient Origins and Strategic Importance Castelmola's history stretches back to the Iron Age, with its earliest settlers being the Sicels in the 8th century BC. Its strategic position, high above Taormina, meant it served as Taormina's acropolis during ancient Greek times. The village, then known as Mylai, faced numerous sieges, including destruction by Dionysius in 392 BC, only to be rebuilt around 350 BC.

## Medieval Fortifications and Successive Rulers The site was first fortified by the Byzantines around 800 AD, acting as an outpost for Taormina. It fell to the Muslims in 902 after fierce resistance, and later, in 1078, the Norman Count Roger I of Sicily conquered the area. The Normans then constructed a new castle, incorporating existing walls. What remains of the castle today, primarily Norman walls, stands as a testament to its long defensive history, though its origins likely trace back to Roman times.

## Feudal Lords and Enduring Traditions During feudal times, Castelmola was successively held by the Marullo, Castello, and Villadicane families. The village has carefully preserved its medieval urban layout, characterized by narrow streets, small squares, and ancient churches. This enduring appeal, coupled with its deep history, led to Castelmola being recognized as one of Italy's 'Most Beautiful Villages.'

Begin your exploration in Piazza Sant'Antonio, the village's main square, notable for its distinctive mosaic flooring made of white and lava stone. From here, you'll be greeted with expansive views of Taormina, Mount Etna, and the Ionian coast. An ancient Roman arch, once the entrance to the castle, now stands proudly in this piazza.

A short walk uphill from the piazza leads to the ruins of the Norman Castle. While only the walls remain, the 360-degree panoramic views from this vantage point are truly remarkable, encompassing Mount Etna, Taormina, the Ionian Sea, and the bay of Giardini Naxos. Don't miss the Chiesa Madre (Mother Church) of San Nicola di Bari, which overlooks an appealing square and showcases layers of historical architectural styles. For a glimpse into the village's oldest religious temple, seek out the Church of San Biagio.

No visit to Castelmola is complete without experiencing Bar Turrisi, a globally recognized establishment known for its unique phallic-themed decor and delicious almond wine. Alternatively, visit the historic Caffè San Giorgio, the birthplace of almond wine, and peruse its guest books filled with signatures of famous visitors since 1907. Wander through the narrow streets, discovering small shops selling local ceramics and souvenirs, and take in the colorful buildings that define Castelmola's appeal.

Castelmola can be visited year-round, but the spring, summer, and early autumn months offer ideal weather conditions. May, June, July, and August typically provide the most comfortable temperatures and abundant sunshine. For the most dramatic and atmospheric views, especially of Mount Etna and the Ionian coast, plan your visit for the late afternoon or sunset. August is also a time for local festivals and events.

Castelmola is easily accessible from Taormina. You can take a 15-minute bus ride from the Taormina bus station, with services running every 45 minutes. Alternatively, for those who are reasonably fit, the scenic Saracens Path, an old mule track, offers a rewarding 30-60 minute walk uphill from Piazza 9 Aprile in Taormina. If driving, be aware that the road to Castelmola is narrow, and parking can be limited, especially during peak summer months. It's often recommended to park outside the village and take the bus or walk in. The village itself is small and easily explored on foot, though comfortable shoes are recommended due to the many steps and uphill streets. Public toilets and a water fountain are available at the entrance to Piazza Sant'Antonio.