Auray

Auray, a captivating town in Brittany's Morbihan department, presents a compelling fusion of historical character and coastal allure. Divided into an upper town and the lower port of Saint-Goustan, it invites exploration along its stone-paved lanes and among its half-timbered homes. The town's enduring maritime legacy is particularly evident in Saint-Goustan, a medieval harbor that once teemed with commerce and now offers a tranquil atmosphere, complete with colorful boats and waterside cafés.

Auray's advantageous position near the splendid Gulf of Morbihan makes it an excellent starting point for discovering southern Brittany's natural and historical marvels. Whether drawn to its venerable architecture, lively markets, or the serene beauty of its surrounding landscapes, Auray promises an authentic Breton encounter. The town maintains a genuine spirit, with a strong presence of Breton culture and traditions.

## From Medieval Stronghold to Trading Hub Auray's story is deeply interwoven with its strategic placement on the Auray River estuary, which flows into the Gulf of Morbihan. The town's beginnings can be traced to the 9th century with a motte-and-bailey castle, evolving into a 13th-century medieval fortress. The port of Saint-Goustan, established in the 13th century by the Dukes of Brittany, swiftly became a significant trading center. During the 16th and 17th centuries, the wine and grain trade elevated Saint-Goustan to the third most important port in Brittany, facilitating commerce as far as Spain and Great Britain.

## The War of the Breton Succession Auray occupies a notable position in French history as the location of the Battle of Auray on September 29, 1364. This decisive conflict brought an end to the Breton War of Succession, with Jean de Montfort and his English allies securing victory over Charles de Blois. The battle involved two prominent French military figures, Bertrand du Guesclin and Olivier de Clisson. The church erected on the battleground by Montfort now functions as a school for the deaf.

## A Diplomatic Landing and Gradual Decline In a fascinating episode, Benjamin Franklin arrived at Port de Saint-Goustan in December 1776, seeking French backing for the American War of Independence. Despite this moment of international consequence, the port's commercial prominence gradually waned with the development of larger ports like Lorient in the 17th century and the arrival of the railway in the 19th century, which rerouted trade. Today, the port has transformed into a marina, carefully preserving its historical architecture and character.

Begin your journey at the Port de Saint-Goustan, Auray's medieval harbor. Wander along the stone quays, admire the ancient bridge, and observe the colorful boats. Many of the timber-framed structures lining the port date from the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. Cross the Pont de Saint-Goustan to ascend to the upper town via the Rampes du Loc'h, a walkway providing expansive views of the port.

In the upper town, the Old Town of Auray features narrow passages like Rue du Château and Rue Saint-René, filled with artisan shops and boutiques offering local Breton products. Visit the 17th-century Église Saint-Gildas, recognized for its Gothic and Renaissance architectural details, including a Laval-style altarpiece and 18th-century woodwork. The 18th-century Town Hall on Place de la République is another architectural highlight.

Beyond the town center, consider a visit to the Basilica of Sainte-Anne d'Auray, a significant pilgrimage destination in Brittany, situated just 7 kilometers away. For a taste of local life, the Monday market in Place de la République is one of Brittany's most celebrated, offering fresh produce, seafood, cheeses, and artisanal bread.

The ideal time to experience Auray is from late spring through early autumn (May to September), when the weather is temperate and suitable for outdoor pursuits. Summer (June to August) is particularly animated, with various festivals and events, while autumn offers a more serene visit amidst the changing colors of the foliage. July and August typically see average daytime temperatures around 22-23°C (72-73°F), with July often being the driest month. Winter brings its own cozy appeal, with Christmas illuminations and a market in December.

Auray is well-connected and readily accessible. The town can be reached by train, with direct TGV services from Paris (approximately 3 hours) to Auray train station, which also serves as a hub for regional trains to Vannes, Lorient, and Quimper. By car, Auray is accessible via the N165 highway. The closest airports are in Lorient, Rennes, and Nantes.

Once in Auray, the town is best explored on foot, especially the historic Saint-Goustan quarter with its pedestrian-friendly streets. The Auray Tourist Office, located at 3 Rue Louis Billet, provides maps and information, and offers guided tours during the summer months. Parking facilities are available in the city center. For local products and mementos, explore the shops in Saint-Goustan or visit the Monday market for Breton delicacies.