Bergues

Bergues, a fortified town in the Nord department of northern France, offers a captivating blend of French and Flemish influences. Known locally as 'the other Bruges in Flanders,' it's a place where history resonates through its well-preserved architecture and tranquil waterways. The town gained significant modern recognition as the primary filming location for the immensely popular 2008 French film "Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis" (Welcome to the Sticks), which affectionately showcased the region's unique charm and the warmth of its inhabitants.

Encircled by extensive ramparts and a network of canals, Bergues invites visitors to step back in time. Its UNESCO-listed belfry, with its distinctive carillon, stands as a proud symbol of communal freedoms and offers expansive views of the surrounding Flemish plain. Beyond its cinematic fame, Bergues is a destination for those seeking authentic French-border culture, a relaxed pace, and a chance to explore centuries of history etched into its brick facades and quiet squares.

From Green Hill to Fortified Town

The history of Bergues stretches back to around 800 AD, with its origins tied to the Abbey of Saint-Winnoc. The town's name itself, derived from the Dutch 'groene berg' or 'green hill,' points to its initial settlement on a small elevated area within a marshy landscape. In 885, Baudoin the Bald, Count of Flanders, fortified Bergues to protect against Viking incursions, entrusting the relics of Saint Winnoc, who converted the region to Christianity, to local religious authorities.

During the Middle Ages, Bergues flourished as an important religious and commercial center, connected to the sea via the Colme canal. It became a prosperous drapery center and a member of the London branch of the Hanseatic League in the 13th century. The town's growing independence was symbolized by the construction of its belfry and the strengthening of its ramparts.

Bergues was frequently contested by French, Spanish, and English forces due to its strategic location. It was officially incorporated into France in 1668 by King Louis XIV following the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. Louis XIV's military engineer, Marshal Vauban, was then commissioned to modernize and expand the town's defenses, creating the star-shaped ramparts that largely remain today. These extensive fortifications, partly medieval and partly Vauban's design, stretch for several kilometers and include original city gates like the Porte de Cassel and Porte de Marbre.

Despite its strong defenses, Bergues faced significant destruction during both World War I and World War II. During the Battle of Dunkirk in 1940, 80% of the town was ruined, and its belfry was dynamited in 1944. However, the town underwent successful reconstruction after the war, with the belfry rebuilt to its original design by 1961, complete with its carillon of 50 bells. This resilience, coupled with its enduring Flemish character, has allowed Bergues to re-emerge as a notable historical and cultural destination.

The sights in Bergues are concentrated within its historic fortified center. The most prominent landmark is the Belfry of Bergues (Beffroi de Bergues), a UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors can climb its 206 steps for expansive views of the town and the surrounding Flemish plain. The belfry houses a carillon with 50 bells, which chime for the Monday market and other festivities.

A walk along Les Remparts, the extensive fortifications encircling the town, is essential. These star-shaped ramparts, designed by Vauban in the 17th century, offer a scenic circuit around the old town, including several original city gates like the Porte de Cassel. The Canal de Bergues and its port area are iconic, with colorful houses and moored boats lining the banks. Boat excursions are available, offering a different perspective of the town.

Other points of interest include the Musée du Mont-de-Piété, Bergues' main art and history museum, housed in a 17th-century former pawn shop. The ruins of Saint-Winoc Abbey, with its square tower, pointed tower, and garden, are also worth exploring. For fans of the film 'Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis,' a dedicated 'Ch'ti Tour' guided visit explores filming locations.

The ideal times to visit Bergues for pleasant weather and fewer crowds are spring (April–June) and early autumn (September). During these months, temperatures are mild, and the streets are generally quieter. Summer (late June to early September) offers warm weather, with average daily highs around 70°F (21°C) in July and August, and more sunshine. However, summer weekends can be busier due to film tourism. While winter brings limited daylight hours, it can offer occasional Christmas markets and festive lighting.

Bergues is conveniently located approximately 9 kilometers south of Dunkirk and 15 kilometers from the Belgian border. The closest major international airport is Lille Airport (LIL), about 80 kilometers away. Brussels Airport (BRU) and Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) are also viable options, requiring a rental car or a combination of train and bus to reach Bergues.

Driving is a practical way to reach Bergues, as it's a short distance from the A25 and A16 motorways. Bergues has its own train station, Gare de Bergues, with frequent regional train services from Dunkirk, taking about 10 minutes. While there are no direct long-distance bus services, travelers can take a coach to Dunkirk or Lille and then transfer to a regional train.

Within the town, the historic center is compact and walkable. A walking path runs along the ramparts, providing a scenic circuit. The Tourist Office, located in the belfry, offers information and guided tours.