Salers

Salers, a designated "Most Beautiful Village of France," is a captivating commune in the Cantal department of south-central France. Situated at the western edge of the Cantal volcanic region, at an altitude of approximately 900 meters (around 3,000 feet), the village offers expansive views of the Maronne and Aspre valleys and the Cantal mountains. Its distinctive dark grey volcanic stone buildings with flagstone roofs give it a somber, yet evocative, medieval appearance. Wandering through its ancient streets feels like a journey back in time, with much of its 15th and 16th-century character remarkably preserved.

Beyond its architectural allure, Salers is deeply intertwined with its agricultural heritage. The village is the namesake and origin of the renowned Salers breed of cattle and the distinctive Salers cheese, both celebrated on Cow and Cheese Day in August. The surrounding region, part of the Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Natural Park, provides a dramatic backdrop for outdoor activities and a chance to experience the authentic Cantal way of life.

From Feudal Stronghold to Renaissance Center

The origins of Salers can be traced back nearly a thousand years, with the town developing around a castle on a basaltic hill overlooking the Maronne valley. During the feudal era, Salers established itself as a fortified settlement. Its strategic location meant it did not escape the turmoil of the Hundred Years' War, during which it was pillaged in the late 1430s. In response to these invasions, the local inhabitants, known as "sagraniers," fortified their city to protect against English forces and bandits.

The 15th century marked a period of significant growth and prosperity for Salers, with much of the present town's architecture constructed during this time. By the end of the 15th century, Salers had risen to become the administrative center of the Bailiwick of Haute-Auvergne. This era of grandeur is reflected in its civil architecture, characterized by black volcanic stone buildings with flagstone roofs, many featuring turrets, mullioned windows, and intricate carvings. Prominent examples of this Renaissance style can be seen around Place Tyssandier-d'Escous, including the Town Hall, the Maison Baillage, and the Maison de la Ronade. The Maison des Templiers, with its Gothic gallery and symbolic sculptures, now houses a museum of local arts and traditions.

Salers also holds a profound religious heritage, notably the Church of Saint-Mathieu. This listed Historic Monument features a Romanesque porch and contains significant artworks, including a 15th-century polychrome statue of the Burial of Jesus and 17th-century Aubusson tapestries. The village's medieval defenses are still visible today, with the Belfry Gate (also known as the Clocktower) and the Martille Gate standing as the only remaining parts of the original ramparts. These historical elements collectively transport visitors through centuries of Auvergnat history.

Begin your exploration in the central square, Place Tyssandier-d'Escous, which is lined with ornate 16th-century Renaissance houses featuring carved lintel doorways and mullioned windows. Here, you will find the Town Hall and the Maison Baillage, both constructed from the local dark lava stone. A short walk from the main square leads to the Church of Saint-Mathieu, a listed Historic Monument, notable for its Romanesque porch and its interior housing 17th-century Aubusson tapestries and a 15th-century sculpture of the Burial of Jesus.

Discover the village's medieval past by visiting the Porte du Beffroi (Belfry Gate) and the Porte de la Martille, two surviving gateways from the 15th-century ramparts. The Maison des Templiers, a Renaissance house with a Gothic gallery, now serves as a museum of local arts and traditions. For expansive vistas of the Cantal mountains and the Maronne, Rat, and Aspre valleys, head to the Esplanade Barrouze. Do not miss the opportunity to taste the celebrated Salers AOP cheese, and other local specialties like truffade (a potato dish) and pounti (stuffed cabbage), or sample the bitter Salers Gentiane liqueur.

The best time to visit Salers is during the months of June, July, August, and September. During this period, daytime temperatures are comfortable, typically ranging between 20°C (68°F) and 24°C (75°F). While July experiences moderate rainfall, the overall weather during these summer months is generally pleasant for exploring the village and its surrounding natural beauty. August is a particularly lively time, as Salers celebrates Cow and Cheese Day.

Salers is located in the Cantal department, approximately 42 kilometers north of Aurillac. The village is compact and easily explored on foot within an hour or two. Guided tours of the city are available. While French is the primary language, some tourist information and guided tours may be available in English and Spanish. Amenities in the village include public restrooms, a picnic area, and restaurants. Parking is available nearby. For those interested in local products, many seasonal shops and producers' markets offer Salers cheese, local meats, and other regional delicacies.