Belvès

Belvès, officially recognized as one of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France" (Most Beautiful Villages of France), is a medieval bastide town in the heart of Périgord Noir in the Dordogne region. Its name, derived from the Occitan "bèl ves," means "beautiful view," a fitting description for a village situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Nauze valley. The village's distinctive skyline is marked by its seven bell towers, a feature that has earned it the nickname "the village with seven towers."

This fortified town, with its golden-hued stone buildings, offers a journey through time. Its well-preserved medieval architecture, including a 15th-century covered market hall and narrow, winding streets, invites exploration. Belvès provides a blend of historical discovery and a relaxed pace of life, making it a popular destination for those seeking to immerse themselves in the authentic allure of rural France.

Belvès is strategically located between the well-known towns of Monpazier and Sarlat, making it an accessible and central point for exploring the wider Dordogne area. The village actively preserves its heritage, offering guided tours and a lively market culture that brings its ancient squares to life.

From Celtic Settlement to Medieval Stronghold

The earliest known history of Belvès dates back to around 300 BC, when the Celtic tribe of Bellovaci settled on this site. The location was chosen for its favorable climate, fertile soil, and natural defensibility. In the 1st century, after the Roman conquest of Gaul, a fortress was built, bringing a period of security and prosperity to the area. Over subsequent centuries, the village passed through the hands of the Merovingians, Franks, and Vikings.

Belvès' strategic position made it a significant point of contention, particularly during the Middle Ages. In the 11th century, through marriage, the village came under English ownership and subsequently became a frontline location during the Hundred Years' War. The village endured multiple sieges and captures throughout this tumultuous period, as well as during the Wars of Religion. Despite these conflicts, much of Belvès' medieval character has remained remarkably intact.

The Era of Seven Towers and Papal Influence

The construction of an abbey in the 11th century marked a significant period in Belvès' development. Legend attributes the village's moniker, "the village with seven towers," to seven noblemen who each built a tower to defend this abbey. While only a tower and an entrance gate of the 11th-century castrum (fortifications) remain today, they stand as tangible reminders of its defensive past.

During the 14th century, Belvès experienced a period of peace and prosperity under the patronage of Pope Clement V, who resided in Avignon and was the lord of Belvès. This papal influence is still visible in some of the village's sculptures and paintings, which feature symbols like keys or a triple crown. The 15th-century covered market hall, a central feature of the village, also dates from this period of medieval flourishing.

Belvès' extensive cultural heritage extends to its architectural landmarks, including the Château de Belvès, also known as the Hôtel de Commarque. Built in the early 14th century and later expanded, it houses rare 14th- to 16th-century murals. The Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption church, a 13th-century Gothic structure, also stands on the grounds of a former Benedictine monastery and features wall paintings from various periods. The village's classification among France's "Most Beautiful Villages" underscores its success in preserving this extensive medieval heritage.

Begin your exploration at the Place d'Armes, the central square of Belvès. This is where the 15th-century covered market hall stands, its 23 pillars a testament to centuries of commerce. Look closely at one of these pillars to find the "pilori chain," an iron ring once used to publicly display lawbreakers. Beneath this square, you can take a guided tour of the Habitations Troglodytiques, eight underground cave dwellings that offer a unique insight into the lives of medieval peasants and beggars who sought shelter there from the 13th to 18th centuries.

Ascend to the Château de Belvès, also known as the Hôtel de Commarque, a 14th-century castle that underwent 19th-century modifications. Inside, you can discover rare Renaissance frescoes, depicting the "Nine Valiants." The Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption church, a Gothic structure from the 13th century, is another significant site, featuring recently restored interior wall paintings spanning from the 16th to 19th centuries. Do not miss the opportunity to simply wander the village's narrow streets, some with intriguing names like "Rue du Bout du Monde" and "Rue de l'Oiseau qui chante," enjoying the golden stone architecture and the expansive views of the Nauze valley.

The best time to visit Belvès for pleasant weather is from April through October. During these months, you can expect good temperatures and less rain, making it ideal for exploring the village and its surroundings. The warmest months are typically July and August, with average daytime highs around 29°C (84°F). The summer also brings lively events like night markets on Wednesdays in July and August, featuring local food, drinks, and often live music. For those who prefer slightly cooler temperatures and fewer crowds, May, June, September, and October offer comfortable conditions.

Belvès is situated in the Périgord Noir region of the Dordogne, approximately 55 minutes by car from Bergerac and an hour from Périgueux. While driving offers the most flexibility for exploring the region, you can also reach Belvès by train to nearby Périgueux or Bergerac, followed by a bus or taxi. Parking is available at the entrance to the town.

The Belvès Tourist Office, located opposite the belfry, is an excellent first stop. They provide information on local attractions, events, restaurants, and offer guided tours or audio guides with maps for self-guided exploration. Tickets for the troglodyte dwellings and the Château de Belvès can also be purchased here. The village has a range of shops, bars, and restaurants, particularly around the central market square. A traditional farmers' market takes place every Saturday morning in the market hall.