Città della Pieve

Città della Pieve, a captivating red-brick hilltop town, stands gracefully on the border of Umbria and Tuscany, offering sweeping vistas of Lake Trasimeno and the Val di Chiana. This ancient settlement, built almost entirely of local terracotta bricks since the Middle Ages, presents a harmonious blend of medieval charm and Renaissance artistry. Its strategic position, at 508 meters above sea level, has historically made it a crossroads of cultures and influences, shaping its unique character.

Città della Pieve invites visitors to slow down and immerse themselves in an authentic Italian experience, away from the bustling crowds. Wander its narrow alleyways, discover masterpieces by its most famous son, the painter Perugino, and savor the flavors of a region renowned for its saffron and Chianina beef. The town's festivals, deeply rooted in its religious and civil history, bring its traditions to life throughout the year, offering a glimpse into the enduring spirit of this Umbrian place.

## Etruscan Roots and Roman Influence Città della Pieve's story begins long before its medieval fortifications. The area was originally an Etruscan settlement, likely a colony of the city of Chiusi, and later became an important Roman municipium. Archaeological artifacts found in the region attest to these ancient origins.

## The Lombard Era and the Birth of the 'Pieve' By the 7th century, the settlement transformed into a fortified outpost of the Lombard Duchy of Chiusi. It was during this period that the town became known as 'Castrum Plebis,' built around a pieve, or parish church, dedicated to Saints Gervasio and Protasio. This central church played a crucial role, serving as a place where pagans were baptized and converted to Christianity.

## Medieval Conflicts and a Glimpse of Independence For centuries, Città della Pieve found itself under the dominion of nearby Perugia, a relationship often marked by conflict and rebellion. The Perugians sought to limit the town's expansion, even building the Rocca (fortress) in 1326 to control the populace. However, from 1228 to 1250, Città della Pieve experienced a significant period of independence under Emperor Federico II di Svevia, leading to the establishment of the Free Commune. It was during this era that the town's urban planning, with its distinct layout, was solidified.

## Renaissance Flourishing and Papal Rule The 15th century marked a cultural zenith for Città della Pieve, particularly with the birth of Pietro Vannucci, better known as Perugino, in 1450. This master painter of the Italian Renaissance, and mentor to Raphael, left an indelible artistic legacy throughout the town. In 1529, the town transitioned from Perugian control to the Papal States under Pope Clement VII de' Medici, becoming an important administrative and religious center. The Della Corgna family, particularly Ascanio Della Corgna, played a significant role in the 16th century, commissioning the impressive Palazzo della Corgna.

## Modern Era and Enduring Traditions Città della Pieve remained under the dominion of the Church (with a brief interruption during the Napoleonic period) until 1860. Today, the town continues to celebrate its heritage through various traditions and craftsmanship. Its red-brick architecture, a testament to centuries of local brick production, is a defining feature. The town is also renowned for its saffron, a tradition dating back to medieval times. Festivals like the Palio dei Terzieri and the Infiorata di San Luigi Gonzaga keep the town's history and culture alive, drawing visitors into its timeless charm.

Begin your exploration at the Duomo di Città della Pieve (Cathedral of Saints Gervasio and Protasius), an architectural example of High Renaissance style, where you can admire Perugino's 'Baptism of Christ' and 'Madonna in Glory with Saints Peter, Paul, Gervasius and Protasius'. A short walk leads to the Oratorio di Santa Maria dei Bianchi, home to one of Perugino's most famous works, the fresco 'Adoration of the Magi'.

Take a stroll down Vicolo Baciadonne, reputedly one of Italy's narrowest streets, offering a unique photographic opportunity and a whisper of romantic legends. Explore the Palazzo della Corgna, a significant noble residence that now houses the local library and a natural history museum. For a deeper dive into the town's artistic heritage, visit the Church of Santa Maria dei Servi, which houses Perugino's 'Deposition from the Cross', rediscovered behind a partition in the 19th century.

Beyond the historical center, consider visiting Il Giardino dei Lauri, a modern conceptual art space and sculpture garden with over 700 works. The town's medieval walls and the Rocca Perugina offer insight into its defensive past and provide panoramic views of the surrounding Umbrian and Tuscan countryside.

The ideal times to visit Città della Pieve are spring and fall, when the weather is pleasant and crowds are fewer. In spring (March-May), temperatures are comfortable, ranging from 13-20°C (55-68°F), and the countryside is alive with wildflowers. Autumn (September-November) offers similarly mild temperatures, between 10-26°C (50-79°F), and is perfect for experiencing the olive and grape harvests. If you wish to experience specific festivals, plan for August for the Palio dei Terzieri, October for the Saffron Festival (Zafferiamo), or June for the Infiorata di San Luigi Gonzaga.

Città della Pieve is approximately two hours by car from both Rome and Florence. The nearest airport is Perugia (PEG), though Florence (FLR) and Rome Fiumicino (FCO) are also accessible with onward train or bus connections. From Rome Fiumicino, take the Leonardo Express train to Rome Termini, then a train to Chiusi-Chianciano Terme, and a local train or taxi to Città della Pieve. From Florence Peretola, take the Tramvia to Santa Maria Novella station, then a train to Chiusi. Once in Chiusi, taxis are available to Città della Pieve. Within the town, most attractions are within walking distance. Public buses also serve the area. Driving allows for greater flexibility to explore the surrounding Umbrian and Tuscan countryside.