Longsheng

Longsheng, an autonomous county in China's Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, is a place where human ingenuity and the earth's grandeur converge. It is primarily known for the Longji Rice Terraces, often called the “Dragon's Backbone” for their resemblance to dragon scales winding up the mountainsides. These terraced fields, covering 66 square kilometers, are a testament to centuries of agricultural labor by the Zhuang and Yao ethnic minorities.

Beyond the expansive landscapes, Longsheng offers a window into the cultural fabric of its diverse ethnic groups, including the Zhuang, Yao, Miao, and Dong. Traditional wooden houses, ancient farming techniques, and vivid customs are still integral to daily life in the villages scattered throughout the region. Longsheng provides a tranquil escape from urban life, inviting visitors to explore its hiking trails, engage with local communities, and witness a way of life deeply connected to the land.

Carving the Dragon's Backbone

The story of the Longsheng Rice Terraces, also known as Longji Terraces, spans over 2,300 years, with the earliest forms of terraced farming emerging during the Qin (221–206 BCE) and Han Dynasties (206 BCE–220 CE). Significant expansions occurred during the Tang (618–907 CE) and Song Dynasties (960–1279 CE), driven by population growth and agricultural policies. However, the terraces as they are largely seen today were primarily constructed during the late Yuan Dynasty (around 1361–1406 CE) by migrating ethnic minorities, particularly the Zhuang and Yao peoples, who sought arable land in the steep, hilly regions of southern China.

Facing social turbulence and displacement, these groups moved into the mountainous areas of Longsheng County to establish new settlements and agricultural systems. The intricate system of terraces continued to expand and was largely completed during the Ming (1368–1644 CE) and Qing Dynasties (1644–1912 CE). By the early Qing Dynasty, the terraces had reached their full scale, featuring interconnected fields that spanned multiple villages and covered approximately 1,174 hectares in the core Longji area. Key developments included the integration of gravity-fed irrigation canals during the 17th and 18th centuries, which harnessed mountain streams to sustain the expansive system.

For over 800 years, local communities, especially the Zhuang and Yao, have sustained these fields through traditional methods, including two-ploughing and three-harrowing techniques for rice planting, without chemical inputs, fostering biodiversity and ecological balance. The collective and meticulous engineering work, with terrace walls laid in stone without mortar, reflects a deep understanding of the land and a harmonious relationship between human effort and nature. In 2018, the Longsheng Rice Terraces received the FAO Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System designation, recognizing their enduring significance.

Modern Developments and Cultural Preservation

For centuries, many of Longsheng's villages remained isolated. For example, Ping'an Village's ancestors moved there about 650 years ago, and for hundreds of years, there was no road connecting it to the valley. It wasn't until the late 1980s that foreign tourists began visiting Ping'an Village, following road improvements. Similarly, Dazhai Village, once a remote and impoverished settlement, became accessible by paved roads in 2003. The development of rural tourism has brought significant changes, transforming the lives of villagers and increasing their incomes.

Today, Longsheng continues to be a place where traditional cultures thrive alongside a growing appreciation for its unique landscapes. The Zhuang and Yao ethnic groups maintain their distinct customs, traditional attire, and architectural styles, offering visitors an immersive cultural experience. Festivals, local cuisine, and handicrafts all contribute to the cultural mosaic of Longsheng.

The primary draw of Longsheng is the Longji Rice Terraces, also known as the Dragon's Backbone Terraces. These expansive terraced fields offer different vistas depending on the season, from mirror-like reflections in spring to lush green in summer and golden hues in autumn.

The terraces are divided into several scenic areas, with Ping'an Zhuang Village and Jinkeng Great Dazhai (or Dazhai Village) being the most prominent. Ping'an, home to the Zhuang ethnic group, features terraced fields dating back over 650 years and offers sweeping views from spots like "Seven Stars with Moon" and "Nine Dragons and Five Tigers." You can explore its traditional three-story wooden houses and a museum detailing the local rice fields' origins.

Dazhai Village, a Red Yao settlement, is the largest of the three scenic areas. From here, you can take a cable car to viewpoints like "West Hill Music," "Thousand-layer Terraces," and "Golden Buddha Peak" for expansive views of the cascading fields. Dazhai is also known for the Huangluo Yao Village, where the Red Yao women are famous for their exceptionally long, dark hair, a tradition deeply embedded in their culture.

Beyond the terraces, Longsheng also features the Longsheng Hot Spring National Forest Park, offering a chance for relaxation amidst nature. For those interested in diverse ethnic cultures, consider visiting Yinshui Dong Village, known for its distinctive architecture and customs.

Longsheng's Longji Rice Terraces reveal distinct beauty throughout the year. The most recommended times to visit are mid-April to mid-June and late September to October.

From mid-April to mid-June, the terraces are filled with water for rice planting, creating reflective surfaces that mirror the sky and clouds, ideal for photography. In late September to October, the rice ripens, transforming the fields into a sea of golden hues, offering spectacular harvest views. Summer (June to mid-September) presents lush green rice plants, while winter (January and February) can bring tranquil, snow-covered landscapes. The region has a subtropical monsoon climate with mild temperatures, but there can be a noticeable difference between day and night temperatures, so bringing warm clothes is advisable.

Longsheng is approximately 80-100 kilometers (50-62 miles) from Guilin. The most common way to reach the Longji Rice Terraces from Guilin is by bus, which takes about 2 to 2.5 hours. Buses typically depart from Guilin's Qintan Bus Station or near the railway station. You can take a direct bus to Dazhai or Longsheng town, then transfer to a local bus for Ping'an. Private shuttles are also an option.

Once at the terraces, visitors often need to park below the villages and take a minibus to the upper car parks or entrances of Ping'an or Dazhai. Hiking is a primary way to explore the terraces and move between villages. Some villages, like Ping'an, require a 40-minute uphill walk from where cars can access. A cable car is available at Dazhai for ascending the hill. The entrance fee for the Longji Rice Terrace Scenic Area is around 100 RMB. It's advisable to carry cash, as foreign exchange services are not readily available in Longsheng itself. Many guesthouses in the villages offer pick-up and drop-off services.