Scanno

Situated in the Sagittario Valley, encircled by the Majella mountains, Scanno is a medieval village in Italy's Abruzzo region that seems to exist outside of time. Its historic center is a labyrinth of narrow alleys, stone steps, and ancient stone houses, a testament to centuries of enduring history. This picturesque setting, combined with its lasting traditions, has earned Scanno a spot among 'I Borghi più belli d'Italia' (Italy's Most Beautiful Villages).

Beyond the charm of its architecture, Scanno is well-regarded for its natural surroundings, particularly Lake Scanno, the largest natural lake in Abruzzo. The lake, celebrated for its heart shape when viewed from certain vantage points, offers a tranquil escape and a striking backdrop for photography. Indeed, Scanno has long been a muse for acclaimed photographers, further cementing its reputation as a place of unique beauty and cultural depth.

Visitors to Scanno will discover a place where ancient customs are still woven into daily life, from the traditional dress worn by some elderly women to the intricate craftsmanship of its goldsmiths and lace makers. It's a destination that invites exploration, promising a journey into the heart of Abruzzo's profound heritage.

## Ancient Roots and Feudal Rule Scanno's origins stretch back to prehistoric times, with evidence of Iron Age settlements and Roman presence found in the area. The town's name itself, possibly derived from the Latin 'Scamnum' (referring to Roman land divisions), hints at its ancient past. The medieval village likely began to form around the 10th century, flourishing particularly in the 12th and 13th centuries under various feudal lords. Over the centuries, Scanno passed through the hands of prominent Southern Italian families, including the Di Sangro, D'Aquino, D'Avalos, De Pascales, D'Afflittos, and Caracciolos.

## The Rise of Wool and Traditional Crafts The 17th and 18th centuries marked a period of prosperity for Scanno, largely due to the thriving wool industry. The skill of Scanno's women in weaving and dyeing was recognized throughout the Kingdom of Naples. This era also saw the development of the distinctive traditional costume worn by Scannese women, characterized by substantial black wool dresses, often adorned with lace and a unique headdress. Alongside the wool industry, traditional crafts like gold filigree jewelry making and 'tombolo' (bobbin lace) flourished, with goldsmiths often drawing inspiration from the intricate patterns of the lace makers.

## A Magnet for Photographers In the 20th century, Scanno gained international recognition as a 'photographer's village.' Its preserved traditions, unique architecture, and evocative landscapes captivated renowned photographers such as Kurt Hielscher (1920s), Hilde Lotz-Bauer (1930s), Henri Cartier-Bresson (1950s), Mario Giacomelli (1950s), Renzo Tortelli (1950s), and Gianni Berengo Gardin (1980s). Mario Giacomelli's iconic photograph, 'The Child of Scanno,' even found a place in the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

## Modern Era and Resilience Scanno, with its population of around 1,800, has faced challenges, including the decline of sheep farming and the impact of World War II, during which a future Italian president, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, found refuge in the town. Despite these changes, the town has maintained its cultural identity and continues to draw visitors to its beauty, history, and enduring traditions.

Begin your exploration in Scanno's historic center, a charming maze of narrow alleys, stone houses, and steep stairways. Don't use a map; allow yourself to wander and discover unexpected corners.

The Romanesque Church of Santa Maria della Valle, with its distinctive bell tower and traces of medieval frescoes, stands as a central landmark. Other notable churches include San Giovanni Battista, home to 17th to 20th-century religious statues, and the small Church of Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, which houses a splendid Madonna Enthroned fresco. Keep an eye out for the grand palazzi, such as Palazzo Serafini, Palazzo di Rienzo, and Palazzo Mosca, which hint at Scanno's affluent past.

A visit to the Museo della Lana (Wool Museum) offers insight into Scanno's pastoral heritage and traditional women's costumes. You can also explore the numerous workshops of local artisans, celebrated for their bobbin lace and exquisite gold filigree jewelry.

Outside the village, a rewarding experience is the 'Path of the Heart' (Sentiero del Cuore) trail, which leads to the panoramic viewpoint where Lake Scanno reveals its famous heart shape. Along this path, you'll also find the Hermitage of Sant'Egidio. For more natural beauty, consider Lake San Domenico, known for its green waters, and the ancient Bosco di Sant'Antonio forest.

Scanno is a year-round destination, each season offering a different experience. Late spring (May-June) and early fall (September-October) provide mild weather and beautiful landscapes, ideal for hiking and exploration. Summer (July-August) is popular for lake activities and festivals, with temperatures typically ranging from 16-30°C (62-86°F). Winter (December-February) transforms the town into a postcard-perfect snowy scene, drawing ski enthusiasts to nearby Passo Godi and Monte Rotondo. The town also comes alive with unique traditions during the Christmas holidays.

Scanno is located in the province of L'Aquila, Abruzzo, with a ZIP code of 67038 and area code 0864. The tourist office is situated at Piazza Santa Maria della Valle, 12.

While driving is the fastest way to reach Scanno, public transportation is available. From Sulmona, ARPA buses offer connections, with a journey time of approximately one hour. From Rome's Tiburtina station, Autolinee Schiappa provides a less frequent service, taking about 2.5 hours. The journey from Sulmona to Scanno is particularly scenic, passing through the rocky Sagittario Gorges and past Lake Scanno.

Within the village, the best way to explore is on foot due to its narrow streets and stairways. For dining, Scanno offers a range of traditional Abruzzese cuisine, with specialties like 'Cazzellitt' (dumplings made with Solina flour), crayfish, and 'raviolone' with ricotta and grilled lamb. Do not miss local desserts such as Pan dell'Orso and Mostacciuoli.