Subiaco

Subiaco, an hour's drive east of Rome, is a captivating town where the echoes of ancient Rome meet the profound spirituality of early monasticism. Situated within the Monti Simbruini Regional Natural Park, this 'Orange Flag' awarded village offers a unique blend of natural beauty, enduring history, and cultural significance. The Aniene River flows through its heart, carving a landscape that once drew emperors seeking respite and later, saints seeking solitude.

Beyond its picturesque setting, Subiaco holds a special place in Italian history. It is recognized as the cradle of Benedictine monasticism, where Saint Benedict of Nursia established his first communities, and remarkably, the birthplace of printing in Italy. From the ruins of Emperor Nero's opulent villa to the serene monasteries clinging to the mountainside, Subiaco invites a deeper exploration into the layers of its past.

## From Imperial Retreat to Monastic Haven Subiaco's story begins long before the Christian era, with the Aequi, an Italic people, inhabiting the region. By 304 BC, the Romans had conquered them, recognizing the strategic importance of the Aniene River's waters. The town's very name, 'Sublaqueum' (meaning 'under the lake'), harks back to Emperor Nero's extravagant villa, constructed in the 1st century AD. He dammed the Aniene River to create three artificial lakes, the largest of which was considered the highest dam in the world until its destruction in 1305.

However, Subiaco's destiny shifted dramatically with the arrival of Saint Benedict of Nursia around 494 AD. Disillusioned with his studies in Rome, the young Benedict retreated to an inaccessible cave, now known as the Sacro Speco, to live as a hermit for three years. This 'Holy Grotto' became the genesis of the Benedictine Order, and Benedict went on to found twelve monasteries in the surrounding valley. Of these, only the Monastery of Santa Scolastica, named after his twin sister, has survived the ravages of time, including earthquakes and Saracen invasions.

## A Printing Revolution and Papal Influence The 15th century brought another significant cultural milestone to Subiaco. In 1465, two German printers, trained by Gutenberg, established Italy's first printing press with movable type within the Monastery of Santa Scolastica. This revolutionary technology led to the publication of the first books in Italy, initially spiritual texts and a children's grammar book. The town also saw the influence of powerful figures like Rodrigo Borgia (later Pope Alexander VI), and it's even suggested that his infamous children, Cesare and Lucrezia Borgia, were born in the Rocca Abbaziale, the imposing fortress that still dominates the village.

Subiaco remained under the control of various noble families and eventually became part of the Papal States until Italy's unification in 1861. The 19th and early 20th centuries saw infrastructure improvements, including a railway connection, a hydroelectric plant, and an aqueduct, further integrating Subiaco into modern Italy.

Your visit to Subiaco will undoubtedly revolve around its two magnificent monasteries. The Sacro Speco, or Monastery of Saint Benedict, is built into the mountainside, enshrining the very cave where Saint Benedict lived as a hermit. Inside, you'll discover two overlapping churches adorned with medieval frescoes, including the earliest known portrait of Saint Francis of Assisi. Do not miss the tranquil Rose Garden, with its intriguing legend.

A short walk away is the Monastery of Santa Scolastica, the only one of Saint Benedict's original thirteen monasteries to endure. This architectural marvel offers three distinct cloisters—Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance—a soaring bell tower, and a neoclassical church. Its extraordinary library, now a national monument, houses precious illuminated manuscripts and parchments, testament to its role as Italy's first printing press.

Beyond the monasteries, explore the Rocca Abbaziale, a medieval fortress providing panoramic views of the town and surrounding landscape. Wander through the Medieval Village of the Opifici, characterized by its narrow, winding streets. Cross the picturesque Ponte di San Francesco, a humpbacked bridge leading to the 14th-century Church and Convent of San Francesco. For outdoor enthusiasts, the Monti Simbruini Regional Natural Park provides opportunities for hiking, climbing, caving, rafting, and even skiing in winter at Monte Livata.

The best time to visit Subiaco for pleasant weather and outdoor activities is during the months of May, June, July, August, September, and October. During this period, average temperatures range from 19°C to 29°C (66°F to 84°F), ideal for sightseeing and exploring the natural park. July is the sunniest month, offering around 11.1 hours of sunshine daily. Autumn is particularly recommended for enjoying the vivid colors of the Simbruini woods. Winters are cold, with daytime highs around 9°C (48°F) in February, and the wettest month is November.

Subiaco is approximately 40 miles (65 km) east of Rome and can be reached by car in about an hour and a half. Alternatively, you can take Rome's Metro Line B to the Ponte Mammolo stop, then catch a bus directly to Piazza Falcone in Subiaco. Buses run frequently throughout the day. Tickets can be purchased at the station or on board.

When visiting the monasteries, remember these are active places of worship, so dress appropriately (shoulders and knees covered) and maintain a respectful demeanor. Comfortable shoes are highly recommended, as you'll be doing a fair amount of walking on uneven surfaces and stairs. Guided tours are available and often enhance the experience by bringing the enduring history and art to life. Check opening hours in advance, as they can vary, especially outside of peak season.